I've never been horribly particular about my hand saws, as long as they were sharp. I would say sharp is the operational word.
Suitable Handsaw For Redwood
I'm making my joinery bench I went to a local yard that stock Redwood, unsorted center free 5ths. 100 x 100mm PAR for the legs, the short and long stretchers are thinner don't pose as much of a problem or should I say..... sweat.
I did visit another branch of the same company and arranged delivery of several meters which I intended to roughly cut to length then accurately cut on sliding mitre saw, or if that was not up to it, then take to joinery company and ask them to cut.
Anyway the timber arrived but was so bowed etc I had to refuse delivery. Even if I had jointed,planed out defects the dimensions would be different. We have an expression in the UK, " Changing the position of the goal posts
)
So I think the only way forward is to take a hand saw to the yard with my long Veritas precision straight edge to select timber that is straight. The yard are quite happy to allow you to select and cut your own timber. They don't provide a cutting service and for health, safety, legal reasons they don't allow customers to use power tools, ie circular saw.
I'm intending to cut the 100 x 100mm with a hand saw. 4 inch is pretty thick. Sorry if I seem a bit of a wimp but going though 4 inch, four times I'm thinking is going to be pretty hard going.
I read about using a hand saw with a more aggressive tooth count, could actually make cross cutting timber even harder. So what type of tooth cut and set would the ideal handsaw have to do this job nice and easy?
Thanks people
I did visit another branch of the same company and arranged delivery of several meters which I intended to roughly cut to length then accurately cut on sliding mitre saw, or if that was not up to it, then take to joinery company and ask them to cut.
Anyway the timber arrived but was so bowed etc I had to refuse delivery. Even if I had jointed,planed out defects the dimensions would be different. We have an expression in the UK, " Changing the position of the goal posts
)So I think the only way forward is to take a hand saw to the yard with my long Veritas precision straight edge to select timber that is straight. The yard are quite happy to allow you to select and cut your own timber. They don't provide a cutting service and for health, safety, legal reasons they don't allow customers to use power tools, ie circular saw.
I'm intending to cut the 100 x 100mm with a hand saw. 4 inch is pretty thick. Sorry if I seem a bit of a wimp
but going though 4 inch, four times I'm thinking is going to be pretty hard going.I read about using a hand saw with a more aggressive tooth count, could actually make cross cutting timber even harder. So what type of tooth cut and set would the ideal handsaw have to do this job nice and easy?
Thanks people
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I'm making my joinery bench I went to a local yard that stock Redwood, unsorted center free 5ths. 100 x 100mm PAR for the legs, the short and long stretchers are thinner don't pose as much of a problem or should I say..... sweat.
I did visit another branch of the same company and arranged delivery of several meters which I intended to roughly cut to length then accurately cut on sliding mitre saw, or if that was not up to it, then take to joinery company and ask them to cut.
Anyway the timber arrived but was so bowed etc I had to refuse delivery. Even if I had jointed,planed out defects the dimensions would be different. We have an expression in the UK, " Changing the position of the goal posts
So I think the only way forward is to take a hand saw to the yard with my long Veritas precision straight edge to select timber that is straight. The yard are quite happy to allow you to select and cut your own timber. They don't provide a cutting service and for health, safety, legal reasons they don't allow customers to use power tools, ie circular saw.
I'm intending to cut the 100 x 100mm with a hand saw. 4 inch is pretty thick. Sorry if I seem a bit of a wimp
I read about using a hand saw with a more aggressive tooth count, could actually make cross cutting timber even harder. So what type of tooth cut and set would the ideal handsaw have to do this job nice and easy?
Thanks people
You might watch this video on handsaws. He also has two videos on sharpening handsaws.
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
