SURVEY Your top 10 Bits

Spitball answer:

3/8, 1/4,1/8 round over
1/2 in flush trim
1/2 in pattern bit
1/2 and 1/4 in endmill
45 deg chamfer
Roman ogee
cove bit.

A surface planing bit would be nice, but I wouldn't put it in the top ten

As far as bit makers go, I am not that picky. I shoot for a balance of price and quality, but also availability. I like Magnate, Centurion, Whiteside and the other "upper shelf" brands, but have had surprisingly good luck with Grizzly "purple" bits, the "wood River" bits from Woodcraft (when they are on sale), Woodline, Oldham, etc. I have had mixed results with Eagle America ( shank was undersized), and didn't like the cheap MLCS bits.

Between estate sales, wood show deals, and the like I have bits of all makes and color, and most can be made to cut pretty well.

I would start with

1/2" pattern bit, this can be a straight flute or spiral flute, at least 2 flutes
1/2" flush-trim bit, if you do a lot of small projects I would also add a 1/4" flush-trim bit for tighter curves
1/8", 1/4", 3/8" round over bits
1/8", 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", straight bits and if you work with small slabs a lot that will be surfaced a 3/4" to 1" straight bit
If you will be working with larger slabs that require surfacing I would recommend 1" to 1 1/2" surfacing bit with 1/2" shank to be used with a large router. If you will be surfacing a lot I would recommend going with an insert bit so the cutting edges can be renewed easily.
a couple of round nose grooving bits 1/4" to 1/2" if you do smaller jobs or 1/2" to 3/4" if you do larger projects
V-bits in 60 degrees and 90 degrees, if you will be doing freehand signs a 45 degree would also be nice to have.
I would also add edge treatment bits, 45-degree champer with bearing, maybe one or two ogee bits wit bearings
If you will be doing a lot of freehand signs with smaller lettering or fine details an 1/8" collet and several different1/8" shank v-bits from 10 degrees to 60 degrees.
If you want to try your hand at small inlay work I recommend an inlay set with router bushing, collar and bit, 1/8" set for the smaller inlays or 1/4" for larger inlays. This takes the guesswork out of cutting both the pocket and inlay.

I like Whiteside and Amana bits but I also buy other brands if they are sale priced and I have a use for them now and then.

If you were just starting, knowing what you know now, in order, which 10 types of bits would you start with? OK to add more if you wish.

1) SC50
2) 60 degree V
3) 90 degree V
4) Carving Liner
5) Sign Bit (sm. & lg.)
6) 1/2" Round Over
7) Spiral Up
8) Spiral Down
9) Chamfer
10)


In order of your quality perceived, which brands of bits do you like best?

Don't know about best, because I have a cheap set that I started with that I still use seven (7) years later, but I can't find them anywhere, and there was no name on them. However, over the years, I've evolved to using these, now.

Frued
Whiteside
Rockler

P.S. @DesertRatTom I read your instructions, Tom, as women usually do... :lol: :sarcastic:

Forgive my lack of detail in comparison of the others. Of course, everyone knows I use my router(s) for signs. These are the bits I use the most when making them.

Barb makes a good point that as primarily a sign maker her bit choices are considerably different than those of us who make cabinets and furniture.A separate list of basic bits for sign makers might be a good idea as we do get new members who are focused on sign making.

My basic set suggestion would be:
1/4" round over- maybe one or two other sizes but the 1/4" is perfect for 3/4" lumber
1/4" cove
1/4, 1/2, and 3/4" straight bits
Flush trim bit (probably 1/2" D)
Pattern bit (same)
45* bearing guided chamfer bit
1/4" and 1/2" round nose
Roman ogee bit for edge profiling

For early add ons I would recommend a slot cutter set with 4 cutters plus spacer and shim pack and a rabbet sett with different size bearing set.