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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Guys before I start making my router table for my table saws extension I did have one concern , how far should the T track go that the fence secures to on the table ?
I am sure it could vary depending on the type of fence I build , but I was going to stop just short of the centre of the plate so your not sliding wood across the track . So a few inches less than Mike did here .
I was admiring Mikes RT here and got me to thinking how I was going to get the bolts in and out of the track as I thought I would need an access hole , but then I got to thinking that you could just leave 1/4" nuts inside the track when you first install it?

 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)

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Slots for the fence should be far enough so you can bury the largest (diameter) bit you have in the fence. I've done that on a hardwood benchtop I have next to my CNC. Router plate recess and slots for t-track all cut with the benchtop on the CNC bed.

4D
 

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Rick, for access to the T slot I was thinking just drill a 1/2" hole with a forstner bit right at the end of the dado for the track, or just cut the track 1/2" shorter than the dado.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Rick, for access to the T slot I was thinking just drill a 1/2" hole with a forstner bit right at the end of the dado for the track, or just cut the track 1/2" shorter than the dado.
Thanks Jeff I had the same thought . I'm thinking Mikes table has the nuts in left the track ?
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Slots for the fence should be far enough so you can bury the largest (diameter) bit you have in the fence. I've done that on a hardwood benchtop I have next to my CNC. Router plate recess and slots for t-track all cut with the benchtop on the CNC bed.

4D
Thanks 4D . I'm thinking that if I build the fence deep enough I can hopefully bury the largest bit yet the T track won't need to go half way down the router plate . I realize the track is flush but I'd rather keep it out of the way if I can .
Maybe I'm overthinking this ?

Now that I have a Festool track I'm feeling pretty confident about routing T slots and miter track
 

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Thanks Bob I had the same thought . I'm thinking Mikes table has the nuts in left the track ?
I suppose you could drop something like these through the slot in the track, but they'd be a pain to get back out. In this case I'll take function over form!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I suppose you could drop something like these through the slot in the track, but they'd be a pain to get back out. In this case I'll take function over form!
I agree Jeff , yet it's tempting
 

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My fence doesn't use a T track to adjust it back and forth. Instead It has a slot on the bottom that moves on a stationary bolt in the table. If I remove the fence I can also remove the bolt so that nothing is in the way. The slots may not look pretty but they get the job done and cost nothing and save a lot of time grooving the table for the T track. Doing it this way allows me to move the fence opening for larger or smaller bits. The reason for the two slots on the back is that it allows it to turn upside down to get more height out of the T tracks for the feather boards. This set up does everything that the aluminum one that you show does however it only cost about $1 dollar to build plus the cost of the T track for the feather boards.
 

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It occurs to me that if you use the router table to do any dado or groove cuts, the wood will likely cross over the T track anyway. The only way it wouldn't is if everything done is always edge forming or box joints or any operation done on the edge or end of a board
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It occurs to me that if you use the router table to do any dado or groove cuts, the wood will likely cross over the T track anyway. The only way it wouldn't is if everything done is always edge forming or box joints or any operation done on the edge or end of a board
Good point !
 
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