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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
:confused:
Hey guys, I need some ideas....... I am trying to move my table mounted router to my table saw extension table. I use the same basic system as Bob & Rick, but don't have enough shop space. I really like their methods of work and want to keep them. I also have several of the Oak-Park fixtures and have their router table. In order to make this work, I need to replace the "C" clamps with something else to clamp the fence and fixtures to the table since there is no way to use "C" clamps on the extension table. I'm trying to replace the "C" clamps with toggle clamps. So far everything looks good, but there is a small problem that I've not been able to solve. The fence moves.

Here is what I've done so far:
I set 2 HD "T" tracks into dados routed into the table top on the fence side, perpendicular to the fence. I made a couple of swivel "T" track slides from aluminium and mounted HD toggle clamps on top of them. The idea is to spread the clamping force of the toggle clamp over a large area in the "T" track so it won't be damaged by the usual small bolt head, and at the same time allow the clamp to swivel so the fence can be clamped at a skewed angle. These are working as planned.

I am using HDPE and UHMW Polyethylene for my fences. The problem is I can't get enough clamping force out of the toggle clamps to prevent the fence from walking while the router is running. The poly won't stay put on the formica top. I don't have that problem using "C" clamps, but I cannot use "C" clamps on this table top.

I thought of inlaying a non slip material into the fence, but I can't think of what to use. I don't want to use sandpaper or anything abrasive that will scratch up my table top.

I'm open for suggestions and ideas. I'm about a micro inch away from abandoning this project and figureing out somewhere to set up my original table. Any and all thoughts on the subject are appreciated. :confused:
 

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I would try maybe a routing pad underneath the fence. Cut into strips for under your fence. That's the only thing that I can think of hope this helps. That would keep from moving cause it sounds to me you have it vibrating and that's making it move on you.
 

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Hi: I use the Oak-Park system myself, and I have limited shop space. I build a bottom section to mount the Oak Park table on, I built in drawers and space for the fixtures.
I mounted the whole thing on a set of casters I bought from Sears, it has retractable
wheels. I just wheel it out and set the casters. My advice is not to mount the router into the saw table, but make the Oak Park unit more portable. Good Luck with it..Woodnut65
 

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It sounds to me like your toggle clamps do not develop enough clamping force. If you want to continue trying to make your system work look for the special ViseGrip locking clamps designed for clamping to a surface plate. Welding shops or tool stores should have these. Another thought is deep throated C clamps. You might consider glueing a very fine black automotive finishing paper(Over 1000 grit) to the bottom of your fence. This should do nothing more than polish your saw table top. I think Woodnut makes an excellent suggestion too. There is wasted space under your table saw, why not put your router table on locking wheels or casters and store it under your saw? You can wheel it out when needed. The easy solution to the height issue is to use a chair when routing. I hope some of these ideas assist you towards your goal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for all the recommendations. I had considered some of these already. My table saw is actually a cabinet saw with a 52" fence. It is on an "H" style mobile base so wheeling something under it is not an option.
I put new spindles on the toggle clamps and it helped. I'm going to inlay some strips of router pad for insurance though. I did some routing tonight and it didn't seem to slip. If I have to use my "Fine Adjustment Tool", the fence tends to spring back with a little delay. I think it might be caused by the rubber tips on the toggle clamps.
I still haven't retired my "C" clamps. I'm still testing. I'm pretty picky when it comes to my work, so it may be a while before I give 2 thumbs up.
Thanks again guys for your input.
 
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