You don't need to nibble it all out with the tables saw. Make your top and bottom end cuts, then just a couple across the middle section leaving chisel-width slices. Lay the leg on a side then a chisel and mallet will knock out the big pieces easily. Start with a light cut on both sides to define the edges. Clean up what is left after the big pieces are gone. Won't be much.

I have a radial arm saw and often do exactly this except I've cut my initial slots from the top where I can see them better. Generally done in less time than it would take to put a dado set on my table saw.

A band saw can also be used to remove the middle after cutting the ends of the notch.

 

I'd probably clamp all 4 legs together, with a "backer board" on each side to keep tear out at a minimum. This would allow me to cut the notches all at once, at the same location on the legs. Using a circular saw to define the top and bottoms of the cut is a good idea.

To hog out the material, i'd likely use a router, taking shallow passes to get to full depth on a section just wider than the diameter of my bit, then with a straight bit (instead of a plunge bit) take the rest out in small bites at full depth. The straight bit can get you full 1 1/2" of cutting depth (MLCS Straight Router Bits), where the plung bit only gets you 1" of cutting depth.

Clamping a pair of straight edges to the legs would keep your router confined to the area you want to cut--don't know about you, but if i don't do that sort of thing i end up with decorative notches all over the place!!

earl

 

As Earl said, clamp all the legs together and set up guides either side to set the width of your notches and route away. Careful measurement from the edge of your cutting tool to the edge of the router will ensure that your notch is exactly right. Make sure your guides are square across your legs and well clamped and you will have perfect notches. I don't cut a guide line with a saw first, just use a straight cut router bit. you need to make a few passes back an forth to cut the whole width of the notch and you may well be able to cut to the desired depth in one go. This is a method I've used many times with great results.

 

Hi Barry
I've done this in about every possible way. I'd do like the others and clamp the legs together first to establish the top and bottom cuts exactly the same and the use a band saw to cut out the rest. If you're not that skilled or your bandsaw isn't well tuned then just leave a small amount and finish with a sharp chisel.
Dennis

 

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll try both approaches. On the 4X4 legs I will clamp them together and use my router with a straight bit. I also have 2 additional notches to cut for the stretcher that runs the length of the table connecting the legs. The width of that notch is only 1 1/2 inches so I'll try the circular saw and chisel on those. That way I'll get some experience with both techniques and see which one works best for me. ("Works best" that translates to "least likely to screw up.")

Thanks again for your help.

 

Maybe best done with a table saw. Cut the ends of the notch. Cut between the ends leaving about 1.5 -2.0 mm of stock between the cuts. The results looks like a comb. Break the waste out, Trim roughly with a chisel if needed. Return the piece to the saw using the fence as a stop on one end and a fix a stop on the miter slide. Carefully move the piece over the saw (at right angle to the plane of the saw blade) and let the saw remove the remaining material. The highest point of the saw must pass over the entire surface. This can be done with a hand-held circular saw but it's a bit "tricky" moving the saw from side to side - table saw is likely to give a better result. You might want to practice on some scrap stock.

Peter M

 

It seems the OP does not have a table saw.

As suggested, I would clamp all 4 legs together and user the circular saw or router.

 

As in the OP's diagram, that was a common technique taught to cut notches for stringers into framing.

I.E:
- Mark out your notches.
- With a circular saw, set the depth on your saw, by lining up to your notch marks. Cut the sides of your notches first, Then make progressive cuts, at most, every 1/4 inch in between.
- Then you would take a screwdriver or the claw on your hammer to break and pull out the chips of the meat between the cuts.
- You would then touch it up with a wood chisel. Or if not a wide area, we would use our circular saw and make cove kinds of cuts, side-to-side, to plane out any excess. Using a piece of material that is going in that notch to judge and touch up any spot that might be proud.

Members are right. In framing, you aren't concerned about break out and that technique, used on individual boards without backing will get that breakout. So if you used backing... It's a technique.

For furnishings. if you had a basic kit, cuts on the sides for a clean cut guide, then a router. Me? I'd just set it up on the table saw with a dado blade. Both those techniques with backers.

 

James, That's right. No table saw otherwise I'd use that rather than a circular saw. I had saved up for my next tool and had to decide between a table saw and a thickness planner. I considered what most of my projects are, toys for the grand kids and I'm just beginning to get into jewelry boxes. I've struggled more with wood of varying thickness along with the usual cups, bows, twists, etc. than being able to rip or crosscut a board. I have a circular saw and 14" band saw and, of course my router, so I opted for the planner. If/when funds become available, or I find a deal that i can't refuse, i'll purchase a table saw. Where to put it will be the question. My shop is currently in a small area of my basement where space is at a premium. My router table, band saw and planner are on rolling bases and, even with that, i'm running out of room. Now, if i can only figure out how to hang a table saw from the ceiling joists ... :fie: