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Table bit problem

Hi there I have a question for you I have a grizzly router table I use a porter cable router in it and I want to use molding bits such as a crown molding bit the hole in my table makes impossible to put the router and bit combination through and I have a hard time putting the bit through the top what can I do should I make the hole in the table bigger or will that ruin the top.
Thanks Glenmore :rolleyes:
 

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Just some thoughts to try out this (new to me) forum.
I built a router table last fall when I bought my first router (DW 618) and it has worked fairly well but I have to use a square on each end of the fence to insure squareness. I recently bought the Jessem fence system and am planning to just build a 'start from scratch' router table. I bought the PC 895 for the table and will use the DW 618 for plunge functions & freehand stuff. Second thoughts...should I conserve space by putting it in the tablesaw? My shop is extremely small. I have a Ridgid ts2424 and I love it. Problem with installing router would be that I have to use the TS top for assembly with almost every project. It's easy to lower the blade and dput a piece of mdf on there for the conversion but if I have to remove the router fence, etc., it might start to be a hassle.
 

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Router table question

Can I cut the hole a little bigger in my grizzly router table I have molding bits that are difficult to get tightened from the bottom I have a porter cable 690 fixed based router :confused:
 

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I have a problem with my router table I have some molding bits 1/2 shank the problem I have is they can't be put through the bottom of the table and I have a hard time tighting the colar from under the table I have a porter cable 690. I was wondering can I cut the hole in the router table without screwing it up. It's a grizzly router table.
 

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I'm so tickled that you opened a forum for us 'woodworkers' to get some direct answers from our favorite woodworkers! I'm not that experienced with routing just yet, but I have a good start on the equipment and need more bits, but I'm ready and eager to learn.

Thanks for all the shows on routing; I've learned a lot already from you!

Sassy
 

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The Router Guys
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Glenmore said:
Hi there I have a question for you I have a grizzly router table I use a porter cable router in it and I want to use molding bits such as a crown molding bit the hole in my table makes impossible to put the router and bit combination through and I have a hard time putting the bit through the top what can I do should I make the hole in the table bigger or will that ruin the top.
Thanks Glenmore :rolleyes:
Not sure what the hole in the grizzly router table is used for but if it has accessories to attach they won't after you make the hole bigger. If there are no attachments then there is no downside to the modification as long as it is not too much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Don2Laughs said:
Just some thoughts to try out this (new to me) forum.
I built a router table last fall when I bought my first router (DW 618) and it has worked fairly well but I have to use a square on each end of the fence to insure squareness.
Quick point:
The router bit is not like the table saw blade. It doesn't need to be square to anything. The fence just needs to be tangent to the router bit, not square to the table. Thanks for posting.
 

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With the router workshop table the removal of the whole assembly makes changing the bits a snap.

With my Incra table system a mechanical raisure to bring the collar to table level makes it a snap.
 

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I have a Sears Craftsman table model 171.28140. I cannot find the best router that will fit that table. I have a Sears Craftsman plunge router, but would need to have the mounting plate redrilled. Is that sensible, or should I buy another router. I believe that I would want one that is fixed, soft-start, 2 HP, 12 Amp or similar. Any suggestions?
 
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