That looks like it will make a great work station. Will the planner sit on top or in the pass through area? If it in the pass through then will you also be able to use it as a work table when the router and fence are not in service?
What I built is not nearly as nice and as big as that is it's only 32"X45" and only houses my router. Now I like the idea of combining work stations, especially if you have a smaller shop like I will when I move from my up stairs to the down stairs garage.
I was wondering if you made it a little shorter could us also use it as a run out table for your table saw or do you already have some thing for that purpose? I only ask because mine worked out for that purpose, well at least I say it does but I have yet to have them both is the same place together to match it up. If you want to check out what I built, from parts on hand mostly, you can see it in my gallery. I will look forward to seeing your progress.
The new table will be somewhat larger than what I currently have. More room is needed for the planer (on top). The reason for the pass through is so I don't have to carry larger stock back and forth for multiple passes, just slide it through to the infeed end. The top will be the sam height, and also be within a few feet of the side of the table saw to support wide stock when cutting (router down of course).
Looking good, Tom. I notice the switch you have mounted looks like a standard light switch. If so, I hope it is rated for at least 15A and it would be better if rated for 20A, otherwise it won't last long If you are using a 2 1/2 or 3hp router on the table. Most of the larger routers are rated at 15A but they actually peak more than that on the initial surge.
I use a dead man floor switch if anyone is in the shop with me..I just slip my foot off the switch and all the power is dead for that tool plus a main power switch , I also use one on the scroll saw and the band saw ... the one for the scroll saw is a great add on item , many times you need to stop and move things around just a little bit..
Well, I haven't seen the 150lb part of the scale for quite some time either....but back to your question about the table. I saw in Norm Abrams video where he talked about the bit drawers on his original model not being tall enough to hold some of the taller router bits. Just an observation from his video.
Disclaimer; I am a complete newb to woodworking so any advice I offer should be taken knowing that fact.
Don't move fast enough (artifical hips and knees) for a "hip bump", but can still hit a good whack with the hands. That big paddle on the switch at Rockler looks interesting!Thanks for the inputs to all!
I'm afraid to picture you guys , 4 foot switches & 3 hip switches. What tunes do you play while doing all this dancing, ROCK??? LOL
Do they make a double pump switch,
click it & it's "ON", click it again & it's "OFF".
(Then you'd have to dance to RAP )
A soft start on the new routers usually helps the startup current stay pretty low.
I'd use 20 amp switches & outlets regardless, they last longer. The 15 amp house outlets don't make good contact over time.
Most shops are wired with #12 wire & on 20 amp breakers. Wired buddy's shop (3/4 conduit) with #12 stranded THHN, good for 25 Amps. Even if not on a 20 circuit the 20 Amp sw & outlet are better. (New house wiring code is #14 wire & can only handle 15 Amps, cheaper, *! so watch that your Vacuum & tool are on different circuits if in the garage)
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