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My older (113 series) Craftsman Table Saw started to slow down and even bind up on 1" boards. Figured it was time to start looking for a replacement. I really do like the saw. Grizzly, Delta, Jet, and Ridgid were what I was looking at -- $1k give or take. Then I started fiddling with the fence (Craftsman 2424). Seems it isn't lining up straight all the time. When it is right -- it cuts with no problem. So.......do I just replace the fence and which one will fit. I hear a lot about the Incra system. From what I gather - I'd have to replace the fence on anything new I bought anyway. Worth a shot before getting a new saw?
 

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My older (113 series) Craftsman Table Saw started to slow down and even bind up on 1" boards. Figured it was time to start looking for a replacement. I really do like the saw. Grizzly, Delta, Jet, and Ridgid were what I was looking at -- $1k give or take. Then I started fiddling with the fence (Craftsman 2424). Seems it isn't lining up straight all the time. When it is right -- it cuts with no problem. So.......do I just replace the fence and which one will fit. I hear a lot about the Incra system. From what I gather - I'd have to replace the fence on anything new I bought anyway. Worth a shot before getting a new saw?

If you can buy the fence and still be able to use it on a future replacement saw, it would be worth a shot. But you might want to consider that Stick's suggestion to repower might be necessary anyway. So if you like the body/bones and other parts are good (arbor, bearings, etc) go with the fence and motor...

Having said that, there are some really good saws out there if you just want to take your shoes off and jump with both feet...:grin:

My Darra James and Bosch 4100 are sporting their stock fences so can't help with a recommendation...
 
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I got fed up with my Craftsman TS a long time ago. It was a similar to yours, I believe. Ultimately, I wanted more power and went for a Griz 1023 3HP. very happy I did. The fence on it is quite good.

Looking at refurbishing is always a good idea. A couple of things to consider, though. Foremost is what motor does it have. I wouldn't put in a more powerful motor so that kind of limits you. Also, what kind of belt does it have. My CMan had just a single belt. Prone to slipping. There are some good aftermarket upgrades for that. A new fence makes a lot of sense. I considered getting an Incra because the one on my router table is awesome. However, it takes a LOT of extra space which I ultimately decided I didn't want to take up with a fence. Also, my CMan had a weird splitter while my new griz has a riving knife. I would get lots of binding with the CMan, none with the griz with the riving knife installed. I would definitely look to add one if you don't already have. A few other mundane things can improve your TS - clean and sharpen the blade, narrow kerf blade (takes less power), clean and wax the table top.

Unless you can't afford it, I would say get a more powerful saw. It really makes a difference. The one I got costs 1500 now (Griz 1023). Maybe a used 3HP would work.
 

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Sometimes the slowing down is a bad bearing which may not be that expensive to fix. Fences can make a world of difference. I have one of these on my backup saw from Mule/Accusquare and it's first rate and less than most others. Mule Cabinetmaker - Carpentry Tools for Carpenters that Need Precision & Reliability!

The extra hp like suggested is good and the big saws will come with a pretty good fence system. If you have the cash and the room you won't regret going big but remember that once you plop one of the 3 hp beasts down it's there for a long time. They don't move easily or well.
 

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It seems to have the power when the fence is straight. Just slows down when it's cutting on that slight angle. I'm thinking the Vega fence that Stick likes (supposed to fit this saw) and a chain link belt and maybe new pulleys. The fence can always be put on another saw.
 

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It seems to have the power when the fence is straight.
Just slows down when it's cutting on that slight angle.


I'm thinking the Vega fence that Stick likes (supposed to fit this saw)

and a chain link belt and maybe new pulleys.

The fence can always be put on another saw.
how much HP do you have now???
are your blades sharp.. and not - you guess they're sharp... or they should be sharp..

why the pulley???
and those chain link type belts only mask the symptoms - they don't fix the problem...
 
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Discussion Starter #9
It's the original motor. Been doing a good job since I've had it as far as power.

I'm using a Ridge Carbide blade. It is sharp.

Turned out to be the pulley the time I had problems. Replaced the arbor pulley with an ACE hardware one cause that's all I could get at the time. Seemed to work ok then.
 

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I had my dad's Craftsman TS and upgraded it to a Vega fence. The fence was much bigger (my fault for ordering the wrong one). Then I bought the Grizzly 1023 3hp. Love it!
 

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John I had the same problem with my craftsman saw. I got a Delta fence and it was like getting a new saw. I have been using this saw since the late 70’s and it is still going strong and there are many days where it will be running 2 or 3 hours a day week after week.
 

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I have my Dad’s late 1940’s craftsman table saw. I upgraded to a Baldor motor. Only problem is that when cutting 45 degree angles, motor is above table top. Generally not a problem, but can be. I also went with a MULE fence system. Had it for many years. This year found that side against blade was not totally flat. Not sure what caused this, but called AccuSquare and explained problem. They shipped a new beam at no charge to me. I use a Forest blade. With all of these enhancements, I can cut through almost anything.

Frank
 

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I have an Incra fence system. It is incredibly accurate and repeatable. It is as good as the videos. I cannot image anything to be more accurate.
 

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A long time ago I had a belt driven Craftsman TB but found it under powered. My 1st thought was the pulley system and it being aligned properly. I ended up buying a Biesemeyer Fence system at cost when a Sears customer ordered one then decided he didn't want it. I got it at cost. It made a big difference but you really need to check the saw out properly. Check to make sure the fence is square to the miter slot, check the blade that it's square to the miter slot (choose a tooth to use checking front and back for both positions). If this is proper and you still have issues and there's no wiggle to the spinning blade I'd then look at the drive system.

And as opposed as I am to spending a lot more on these tools, although I have, I'd give a good deal of consideration to the Sawstop table saw. I have one and it's a solid well built contender and then it has the brake system. It only takes one time to prove it's worth. I have personally seen the difference of not having one and it's not pretty. Just a thought, I'm not affiliated with Sawstop in any manner. Off the soapbox.......
 

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It seems to have the power when the fence is straight. Just slows down when it's cutting on that slight angle. I'm thinking the Vega fence that Stick likes (supposed to fit this saw) and a chain link belt and maybe new pulleys. The fence can always be put on another saw.
I saw a good article in FWW recently about tuning saws and the problem you describe sounds like it is a case where the table is not coplanar with the arbor. When this happens one or the other needs to be shimmed to get them in line with each other. The article was by Ellen Kaspern. I don't know if you can find out something about that problem by doing a web search or not. It could take me a while to find which issue that was.
 

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It seems to have the power when the fence is straight. Just slows down when it's cutting on that slight angle. I'm thinking the Vega fence that Stick likes (supposed to fit this saw) and a chain link belt and maybe new pulleys. The fence can always be put on another saw.
Could be nothing more 'heel' effect - the blade is not perpendicular and dragging on the trail end. Mt radial arm saw does this if it's out of alignment at all. Makes inaccurate cuts that way...
 

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If the saw fence is out of line with the blade then one side of the cut will have those heel marks but if the table is not coplanar with the arbor then it will bind when you are doing a bevel cut even though it doesn't on a straight rip cut.
 

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Love my Vega. Haven't touched it since I installed it - must be 8 years of pretty regular use. I had a very bad Delta fence before - going from that to the Vega changed everything.
 
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