I had to replace the arbor bearing on my old Sears Contractor Table Saw. I bought a new E Clip because the original seemed to be bent. I eventually realized that the new flat E Clip was not holding the shaft as tight as the original and there was a small amount of side to side play in the shaft and saw blade. I'm wondering now if the E Clip should in fact be concave in order to provide adequate pressure and stop any side to side movement. If the E Clip is supposed to be concave should the concave be facing inward or outward when installed? I don't remember the position when I originally removed it.....but I did keep it.
Table Saw Arbor Shaft E Clip
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Not sure what an E Clip is? Was there a side to side movement before you replaced the bearings? What model saw and does the parts brakedown give any indications?
Herb
Herb
Craftsman model # 113.298240. Yes, there is a parts breakdown. The original part was 6527 and has been replaced by part STD585075. There was no side to side movement before the bearings were replaced. I'm thinking that the e clip I bought from a hardware store is flat whereas the original maybe wasn't flat and due to this was able to put more pressure on the arbor shaft and prevent side to side movement OR I thought that maybe the new bearing is just a wee bit narrower than the original. I had the bearing replaced at a bearing shop and don't have the original.
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Still not sure what an E Clip is. I have seen those spring steel washers that are slightly bent that goes on behind a bearing, they might act as a thrust washer? A lot of motors have them on the commuter end of the shaft. Usually they are backed up with a flat one.
Give it a try and see if the old one will keep the side wise slack out of the arbor. The bearing /motor shops might have new ones and give the place a call where you had the bearings replaced and see if they know anything about it.
Herb
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On my old John Deere skidder parts in the transmission used measured thickness clips to take any slop out of the setup. I don't know that you have that but it is one possibility. You are correct that some washers have a bow purposely stamped into them, I think they are called spring washers, but I've only ever seen them in full round, not as a clip.
That is what the clip looks like. I was able to match the size but the original feels a bit thicker. I may have to order one from Sears or a ereplacement parts.
Still wondering if the original was concave.
After years or working on various types of machinery, I can say I've never seen an E-clip with a purposeful bend in it. I have seen thin washers used as shims and spring washers, but never a spring e-clip. I think you either have a thinner bearing or e-clip than the original one. Maybe you can find a thin washer that will shim the difference and remove the side play?
I put a second e clip in to take up the slack. I'm not sure if I pushed it in far enough but the blade has no side to side movement so I figure I'm good. It's a tough spot to work in as I had to remove the motor and reach in from the back of the saw. I'm sure the best thing would have been to turn the saw upside down for easier access but that would mean removing the rails and detaching the saw from the legs.
I had tried a thin washer but the thinnest one I could find locally was not metal and I tore it when I installed the e clip.
I had tried a thin washer but the thinnest one I could find locally was not metal and I tore it when I installed the e clip.
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Jim,
How hard was it to change the bearings with the saw upright? I got a set and should change mine as well. Don't know if my pulley is shot or the arbor shaft needs replacing. The pulley slipped off the key a couple times. It's been holding lately, but I don't know for how long. There's no blade wobble whatsoever. I don't want to start tearing it apart and not be able to put her back together.
But I did buy a Kobalt contractor saw from Lowes as a back up just in case. After putting all the plastic and thin aluminum parts together and rethreading some of the holes to line them up, I decided "old ironsides" was a pretty good saw, and worth keeping together.
How hard was it to change the bearings with the saw upright? I got a set and should change mine as well. Don't know if my pulley is shot or the arbor shaft needs replacing. The pulley slipped off the key a couple times. It's been holding lately, but I don't know for how long. There's no blade wobble whatsoever. I don't want to start tearing it apart and not be able to put her back together.
But I did buy a Kobalt contractor saw from Lowes as a back up just in case. After putting all the plastic and thin aluminum parts together and rethreading some of the holes to line them up, I decided "old ironsides" was a pretty good saw, and worth keeping together.
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Jim...aren't the bearings pressed into the arbor housing...? And onto the arbor shaft...?
If so, there should be no play... Was the outer bearing pressed all the way in against the first e-clip...? This might take having to hold the arbor shaft and inner bearing in place while pressing in the outer bearing...
Just thinkin' out loud a bit...
If so, there should be no play... Was the outer bearing pressed all the way in against the first e-clip...? This might take having to hold the arbor shaft and inner bearing in place while pressing in the outer bearing...
Just thinkin' out loud a bit...
After the E Clip is removed the arbor housing slides right out.......tilt the arbor via the blade tilt wheel to provide clearance. I couldn't get the bearing off with the tools I had. I brought the housing to a bearing shop and they removed the old bearing and installed new bearing for $40. I had also added better pulleys several years ago when I added PALS and a link belt. I also put a Delta T2 fence on the saw and it has been working fine.
I made a mistake in explaining the problem. I rechecked the diagram and it is the arbor housing that had the play and the problem is the retaining E clip that is supposed to hold the arbor housing tight. The arbor itself is ok within the housing.....it is the whole housing that had the movement.
Sorry for the misinformation.
Yes, housing (part 52).
Yes, e clip (part 43).
Yes, link (part 42).....I have it installed.
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The link should be installed between the two shafts, the lower one where the arbor housing pivots and one above it where the link gets its support.
If that is how it is installed, then a shim of appropriate thickness would take care of the "loosies". Having said that, it should not be required and I would check the shaft the arbor housing pivots on to make sure it has not pulled away/out from the cradle (part 39). The link should be a tight fit between the two posts and should be nice and vertical between the two posts.
You shouldn't use a spring washer because it will give under the pressure of the saw blade cutting and will allow the whole arbor housing to move under stress. Instead, use a shim washer that will make it snug under the e-clip, on the outside of the link. Again...extra shim should not be necessary and make sure the shaft has not pulled out a bit from the cradle...
Bowed E-Ring
Bowed e-clips are available
https://www.huyett.com/Products/Fasteners/Retaining-Rings/E-Clips/MS16634-1025?searchText=
and can be used to compensate for clearances, tolerances, etc., within the range of the specific ring. Been a while since I used one, I'd have to dig in the boxes of reference material I brought home when I retired.
Bowed e-clips are available
https://www.huyett.com/Products/Fasteners/Retaining-Rings/E-Clips/MS16634-1025?searchText=
and can be used to compensate for clearances, tolerances, etc., within the range of the specific ring. Been a while since I used one, I'd have to dig in the boxes of reference material I brought home when I retired.
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4,625 Posts
Sorry, Jim...got that backwards...upper is where the arbor pivots...got 'em reversed...
No problem....the Link hole sizes are different so they will only fit in one direction. All parts are properly installed. Right now I have a second E clip wedged between the first E clip and the Link and this has stopped the arbor housing from shifting. Just wondering if I should buy a new E clip from the manufacturer or try and use the original E clip which is bent a little. I'm thinking leave it as is...not much that would cause the second E clip to come loose other than maybe a whole lot of vibration.
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