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Since the router and table are in the mail I'm focusing on the table saw for a bit!

I picked up a TS2410LS 10" table saw and am looking to pick a few blades for it. I don't mind having a few blades, but am not looking to go crazy.

so two questions:
(1) for particle board, MDF and plywood does rip VS cross cut make a difference? not sure why it would, worth asking though.

(2) blade recommendations?
rough:
I figure the 24T blade included is good for brute ripping and cross cuts (2x4s, rough plywood for subfloors etc.

nice stock:
I would like a nice rip blade and a nice cross cut blade (see one I got on markdown below).

general use:
nice combination blade.

When I picked up the saw they had a 1080X freud blade with a yellow sticker - never opened. needless to say I bought it without looking it up. it's an 80 combination tooth blade. I'm under the impression its a solid cross-cut blade that can also be used for melamine and plywood.

thanks for the help! everyone has been awesome answering my newbie questions!
 

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You are correct about the blade being for cross cutting with a nice finish. Laminated products cut the best with a tooth set at a different angle but this blade should be adequate for your purposes. As far as a good combination blade that can be left on the table most of the time Freud makes a 50 tooth combo blade that is my favorite. Do not try cross cutting with the 24 tooth blade, you will be wasting your time. 24 tooth blades are meant for ripping only.
 

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Buy a 2 good quality combo blades.
One on hand, one to send in & get re-sharpened.
I found if you have several speciality blades, the one you need is never on the saw & you have to change it or muttle trough with the one thats on the saw.
Combo's that do it all relatively well will get 90% + more use.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Buy a 2 good quality combo blades.
One on hand, one to send in & get re-sharpened.
I found if you have several speciality blades, the one you need is never on the saw & you have to change it or muttle trough with the one thats on the saw.
Combo's that do it all relatively well will get 90% + more use.
I like that approach - how much of a quality difference is there?
 

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I bought a Grizzly table saw a year ago. I was using the blades I could get locally at the box stores. I had scratch marks in the wood & the blades wern't "true" & after a few weeks use it was evident that the blades got dull quickly. I sucked in a big gulp of air & ordered a Forest WWII. WOW. The difference was amazing to me. I know I had spent over $100 on several blades, had them sharpened locally for X$. I have had the Forest on the saw for 8 months or better & it still cutting better than some of the new local bought blades. I'm doing my own test, leave it on for everything (mdf, plywood, 2" construction stuff) but NO junk & treated wood to see how long before I need to change it, but so far it still cutting great. I'll definitely send it in to get it re-sharpened when the time comes.
No scratch marks, totally glue-able surface, Rips 4/4 & 3/4 oak, cherry, maple. It shows no teeth or cutting marks that I notice. (I rarely sand the edges anymore & when urethane's applied I see no saw marks)
When the time comes I'll buy a new one, put it on & send in this one for sharpening.
From what I've noticed, the forest WWII combo 40 tooth standard kerf, is worth the $.
http://www.librawood.com/forrestwoodworkerII.aspx
I've heard good things about the Frued Fussion but never used one.

Quality difference? Night & Day! Truely. IMHO (PS don't brush against the teeth when installing, or keep band-aids close)
 

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(1) for particle board, MDF and plywood does rip VS cross cut make a difference? not sure why it would, worth asking though.
Technically, there is no rip or crosscut with sheet goods. Any blade grind can be used but HiATB works best for plywood and laminates. If you are cutting with the grain of plywood veneers the grind selection is less critical. Particle board and MDF are more abrasive than solid wood so a more durable grind like Triple Chip is best when blade life is a consideration. The D1080X that you purchased should be a great all around choice for fine crosscuts as well as for the sheet materials.

(2) blade recommendations?
rough:
I figure the 24T blade included is good for brute ripping and cross cuts (2x4s, rough plywood for subfloors etc.

nice stock:
I would like a nice rip blade and a nice cross cut blade (see one I got on markdown below).

general use:
nice combination blade.
I think you are on the right track for the blade that came with the saw. It wil llikely make a good blade for general ripping but for finer work and glue ups you will either need a jointer to finish the edges or a Glue Line Rip blade. The Freud version of the GLR is the LM74R010 (full kerf) or the LM75R010 (thin kerf).

If you have a really good crosscut/sheet goods blade and a GLR blade you will probably not need a combination blade unless you just hate changing blades.
 

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I have a Forest Woodworker II which I like a lot. I also bought a Forest Chopmaster for my miter saw, another great blade. Both cut very well and leave a very smooth edge. They are expensive, but I feel are worth the money.
Regards,
rstermer
 

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Discussion Starter #9
seems that the WWII keeps coming up. might just drop the $$$s and focus on learning how to work with wood instead of how to sand.

thanks!
 

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Forrest makes the best cut IMNSHO.. :)
 

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Forrest is my pick and always what I recommend. In my shop with the woods I cut I have found none better.

I have used them at least 10 years and I have even tested against many, Freud etc. Forrest on my table saw and miter saw and I never have regretted it. I only go through a table saw blade two times a year and unless you are a pro I doubt you use it as much as I do.
 

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hello bobj,

its expensive, but it is a fine blade. i have the fusion on my saw and it makes my work look better. not me unfortunately,lol. at 100 bucks its still more economical than the woodworker II and probably as good or better.:)

sorry bobj, i just noticed the date on your post.
 

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FLAT TOP BLADES ?

I might have missed it...but did not see any comments on needing one...
Perhaps that is due to having a router to make those type of cuts...
but for flat nice looking glue mortise joints on a table saw ... nibbling as Norm calls it.... it seems like one FT blade in the stable would be a good thing....
 

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I only pay 89.00 for the woodworker II. It is on sale at least 50% of the year. I am not sure if it is on sale now, but if you watch it always comes back down.

I am sure the Freud blade you are using is nice too, but it is more money than the Forest, not less. Even at full price I never paid more than 100.00 for the Forrest blade including tax and shipping. When I tested the Freud blade I did not like the way it cut the harder hard woods Like Ipe and Cumaru when ripping long lengths on my saw. I think Freud is one that may require different blades for maximum results, but I find I never have to change out the Forrest blade.

Here is one of three that work well on a table saw for 80.00 145 perfect 5 star ratings:

http://www.amazon.com/Forrest-WW10407125-Woodworker-10-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B0000223VQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1236964452&sr=1-1

I think the highest I ever saw them was 109.00 at one point(for the larger arbor). I do like Forrest's easy to deal with sharpening service too. Just put in the box they ship it to you in and drop it in the mail. I never looked into if Freud has the same type of factory sharpening service though, maybe they do.

It does look like since I have looked last year one of the blades I have is actually 114.00 regular price with free ship which is more than I have ever paid, still a good blade.

Here is the collection at amazon anyway:

http://www.amazon.com/Forrest-Woodworker-Blade-Collection/dp/B001PTG7IO/ref=cl_tr_dp?ie=UTF8&qid=1236964452&sr=1-1


Nick
 
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