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Table saw died

5.9K views 23 replies 12 participants last post by  Gaffboat  
#1 ·
I'm bummed. My 16 year old Ryobi table saw bit the dust in the middle of making some drawers for my workbench. I had just finished a cut when the blade stopped turning so I quickly turned the saw off. I unplugged it and found the blade would not turn by hand. After checking the usual suspects, I took the motor apart and discovered my worst fears — a bearing bushing on the end of the motor shaft was frozen solid.

After searching for the part online I find that it is discontinued and not available. The only solution is to buy a complete motor assembly for about $350. I guess it's time to think about investing that much money in a new saw. :(
 
#2 ·
Same had happended to my Ryobi (sort of). Saw still started, but started making noise. Turned off, unplugged, spun blade... had wobble/play. That rear bearing had locked up and spun, melting rear housing and enlarging the hole.

If your "is" locked up and that rear housing "is" okay, its only an $8 dollar bearing.

Since mine was'nt, I lucked out and bought a parts Ryobi from my service center... It helps that I know the owner. He had one with a good motor, but striped tilt mechanism. I bought the whole thing for $25.

For $350? For a motor? What model saw? Couldn't you buy "another" saw for that?
 
#3 ·
Mine is a BT3000 contractor-style saw. Where can I find that $8 bearing? :confused: Every place I've found online for Ryobi parts show it as discontinued and out of stock. The rear housing is still okay. If I can't find a replacement bearing I'm thinking about buying the Rigid 4512 table saw rather than invest in a new motor.
 
#4 ·
Oliver, I did a bit of research for you too, and what I've read was that the older Ryobi had a 13 amp motor and the newer ones have a 15 amp motor. So now they don't supply the parts for the older 13 amp, they want you to buy the 15 amp motor. BUT, if you already took it a part, you could either try to read the numbers on the side of the bearing, or if you have a dial caliper, you could measure the outside diameter, the inside diameter and the width of the bearing, and call your local bearing supply house and that bearing would not be but what Mike said, about 8 bucks. The new parts list for the 15 amp motor shows a #6002 bearing. These are really cheap bearings. Over here, in New Orleans, I think there cheaper then 8 bucks.

Good luck!
 
#9 ·
Totally agree with what the other guys said.
Or, take it to an electrical repair shop. It'll cost you a bit more than $8 or so at one, but still reasonable.
What was that $350 motor made out of, solid silver? What a ripoff.
I've got a Harbor Freight saw, cost me about $75, new, in about '96-'97, still working just fine.
 
#10 ·
If it's a standard bearing, I would go to a bearing distributor as previously suggested.
searspartsdirect.com also claims to have parts for BT3000 saws. A google search for BT3000 brings up many sites with information such as bt3central.com. On bt3central they have a forum with many owners swapping parts and information about these saws. You might find someone who is parting out their saw and will sell what you need.


Charley
 
#11 ·
Think of it as a blessing in disguise. Direct drive saws do not have the power for doing serious work. I had several of them for job site saws and ended up burning them all out and that wasn't doing commercial work. On almost any day of the week there are at least 4 or 5 cheaper cast iron, 1 hp belt driven ones available on Craigs list. Most of them are the older Craftsman ones that were made in the US. They range anywhere from $50 dollars up to about $150. I have one of them tucked away in the corner of my basement that I occasionally use when I don't want to change the set up on my regular saw. It can't handle as much as my 3 hp saw but I doubt that the motor will ever burn out. If it did I could head back to Craigs list and get another one for a few bucks.
 
#12 ·
SUCCESS! I finally got the old bearing off (I knew I was saving the wheel puller tool for a reason) and found one at Applied Industrial as recommended above. Thanks to the wise counsel of you guys, my repair is only $10.50. :thank_you2:

As you can see from the photo, the bearing was not a pretty sight. The raceway looked like a train wreck where the rear cars pancake into the front cars.

Image
 
#13 ·
I had the same problem with my 35 year old Craftsman TS. I got the numbers of of them and searched the internet. I found them for under $5. Be sure to measure yours. Hole dia, thickness, and width. They could be either metric or standard US.

Miniature Bearings,Miniature Bearing,Bearings,Ball Bearings
 
#16 ·
Thanks for the link Argoknot. My bearing is actually a 10mm bore and 30mm outside diameter. I was able to buy one from Applied Technologies. Oddly, the Sears parts site and ereplacements.com show the part in the parts list but then say the part is discontinued and no longer available. I say odd because the part (a 6200z radial bearing) seems to be readily available from bearing suppliers. Fortunately I found one and will soon have an operating saw again. :dance3:
 
#15 · (Edited)
#17 ·
Hey Oliver, what part of Louisiana are you from? I live on the Westbank of New Orleans. Marrero.

I haven't taken my saw apart yet, and I don't know about yours, but unless there is a way to oil or grease that bearing, I'd get the 6200 2RS, instead of the 6200z or zz. 2RS is sealed on both sides, where as the z(one side) or zz(double sided) is "shielded", but not completely sealed. But it looks like your old one there was completely open, unless you pulled the shields/seals off. My 2 cents, anyway!! ;o)
 
#19 ·
I pulled the shield off to see what was going on inside. I'm thinking the oem bearing lasted me 16 years and in another 16 years I'll be 85 and probably won't be worrying about the saw anymore so I replaced it with the same bearing. :laugh: I'm hoping at that age to have become the town character sitting in the square telling lies ... ummm ... make that Stories to the younger folks about the good old days. Since most of my experiences happened before the internet era, they'll have trouble checking facts and I can regale them with whatever nonsense pops into my head. Come to think of it, I've been doing that for many years already. As the saying goes, you can fool some of the people some of the time and some of the people all of the time — and those are pretty good odds. :lol:

P.S. I'm across the Lake on the Northshore.
 
#24 ·
Dead saw Update

A sweet sound today! My saw is back together and running well thanks to all who pointed me to a new bearing and source. I took advantage of my saw's downtime to give everything a good cleaning and get rid of some sawdust buildup that is normally hidden. Then after putting the motor back together, I fine tuned all the saw settings for accuracy. My saw is now working better than it has in years. The cloud (as usual) had a silver lining after all. Thanks again to all for your guidance. :thank_you2: