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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone seen the wood whisperer video on the VerySuperCoolTools extruded table saw fence. It's $250 complete and it looks real good to me. The VerySuperCoolTools site has details video to make your own so I plan on using my old welding skills to make my own. The 1 1/2" x 3" extrusion, locally, is $1 an inches so end product should be inexpensive.
 

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The fence on my TS is an extrusion from the factory. Great for attaching feather-boards, aux fences, stops, gauging blocks, ... you name it. I should be taking delivery Tuesday on a 2' section of 80/20 1030 extrusion for my TS miter gauge. The inner holes are nominal 0.205 diameter, just about right for a 3/16 rod. I'm planning on copying the Osborne EB-3 Miter Fence with the extendable tail piece.

BTW Amazon and Ebay each are sources for 80/20 products so do a little shopping.

Keep us posted on the fence.

GCG
 

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Has anyone seen the wood whisperer video on the VerySuperCoolTools extruded table saw fence. It's $250 complete and it looks real good to me. The VerySuperCoolTools site has details video to make your own so I plan on using my old welding skills to make my own. The 1 1/2" x 3" extrusion, locally, is $1 an inches so end product should be inexpensive.
Yes, by coincidence, saw that particular Wood Whisperer video 2 nights ago. At the time, I didn't place the fence as the same style as made in the AskWoodMan video series. I watched that video series (11 videos or so), I think about a year ago. Good tips.

Funny how that Very Super Cool Tools refers to the fence head as an original design, where as the guy in the video copied most of it directly from his beisemeyer fence head and fence, and drilled 3 holes to mount the extrusion. He never claimed it was an original design, but a copy.

I built one back then. Lesson's were learned. I found that there was some short coming in the beisemeyer design that I didn't like. I have design some of my own improvements on my fence heads since then.

The size extrusion you referred to is a 15 series 1530. Pat is right and that's where I got some of my extrusions and hardware. I got more from a friend.

I have a few fence projects also going on, just like you and Pat, but now with "L" square rip and miter/crosscut fences, using 1020, 1530 and 2040 extrusions. I see the 1530 as a good all-around size.

One of those projects was inspired by a friend that I recently talked into being a member here. He also has fence building howto's on YouTube. He's into his 4th complete fence system build... and they are hands-down mechanical and technical works of art!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I watched this on how to make a european t-square table saw fence biesemyer adapton. Here is a link to the finished product.

How To Build A T-Square Table Saw Fence For European Table Saw Part 11 - YouTube
I can't post the link yet but have a look. This guy is a metal craftsman.

The guy is a machinist so the work he does is amazing. I can take away some of his great ideas and techniques. Just have to adapt it to the tools I have in my shop. I have a drill press, hack saw, grinder and a friend with a welder not a $40,000 machining tool and a shop full of metal manufacturing tools.
 

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I watched this on how to make a european t-square table saw fence biesemyer adapton. Here is a link to the finished product.

How To Build A T-Square Table Saw Fence For European Table Saw Part 11 - YouTube
I can't post the link yet but have a look. This guy is a metal craftsman.

The guy is a machinist so the work he does is amazing. I can take away some of his great ideas and techniques. Just have to adapt it to the tools I have in my shop. I have a drill press, hack saw, grinder and a friend with a welder not a $40,000 machining tool and a shop full of metal manufacturing tools.
That is who I mentioned in my post. I love talking with August about anything. Great friend. Sharp and funny as all get out!

If you like that video series, you should see some of his later fence projects. Incra LS positioner/machined t-rails and bearing'ed sliding positioners/aluminum extrusions... The videos you saw was only his first styled project.

Machinist that just started in and loves woodworking. He's a recent member here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Mike, any chance of pics of the T fence that you have built. Good ideas often come to me to after I've completed a project with a bad idea.
 

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That is who I mentioned in my post. I love talking with August about anything. Great friend. Sharp and funny as all get out!

If you like that video series, you should see some of his later fence projects. Incra LS positioner/machined t-rails and bearing'ed sliding positioners/aluminum extrusions... The videos you saw was only his first styled project.

Machinist that just started in and loves woodworking. He's a recent member here.
Mike just got this after I sent my last reply. Thanks I will definately watch those videos
 

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Mike, any chance of pics of the T fence that you have built. Good ideas often come to me to after I've completed a project with a bad idea.
Here are a few in my uploads for one of the TS projects:
http://www.routerforums.com/tools-woodworking/36844-table-saw-update-challenge-4.html#post299638

That one is with square tubing that I drilled and welded in nuts. It has holes through the mount to use either aluminum extrusions or that steel tubing. That head was originally basic Beisemeyer styling... That design, when you unlock it and slide, it has slack and flops around as you slide. I used an additional rail on back (earlier posts in that thread). That made a lot of difference in that the rail glides over the table, instead of on it and then floated over the miter slots. But not as how it moved in general.

It locks securely square, every time. It really doesn't stay square as you move it, when you unlock it and move the head, so it doesn't move as easy as it could have. I was not happy with that.

I over came that later by adding L shaped brackets over the front with UHDPE inserts... That way when it is unlocked, the head slides along on the top guides, between the front and rear guides, keeping it square as it moves. Adjustments for these is via slots in the brackets. Later heads I will be out of channel.

Since then, I have the same "saw" on order as August has. (Laguna TSS) So I needed to start styling my fence heads as an "L" instead of as a "T" so the head doesn't interfere with the sliding table. This also opened up a few things on my present saw and how I use it (Sleds and crosscut fences)... My future rip fence systems will continue to move on front and rear rails, lock in the front and rear... but end leftside at the blade.

I am still playing with fence locking designs and micro-adjusters.
 
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