https://www.microjig.com/products/grr-ripper/
or make your own...

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I have the micro jig gripper, and yes, its expensive. But its incredibly well made and thought out. You can adjust it to fit almost any situation on a bandsaw, router table, or even table saw.
I have no regrets spending that money for something so versatile right out of the box.

I should add that I'm not known for throwing money around.

 

Thanks guys, I appreciate your input.

 

I have a couple of them for pushing long pieces through. All models have the basic structure, they just add on a couple of accessories, in particular, the wide foot. I never use it, really awkward. You can get a 1/8th foot which is really handy for narrow cuts. I always try to keep the widest part of the wood against the fence to reduce the chance of kickback. Early on with my old table saw, I tried to cut a warped piece of ply and it kicked back, hitting me in the center of my chest. It was bruised and sore for months. They come at you at about 100 mph. Won't ever try that again. Just get the Gripper, I don't think I've ever seen a bad review on this or any other site.

 

Only got kickback once. I let up on the push stick and the blade caught a small piece of wood. Have two faint scars on my wrist. I was around heavy manufacturing for years. I learned about 55 years ago not to stand in the way of IFP- identified flying pieces. I now remember to stand off to the side when using the TS.

 

I have found my Gripper one of the best safety tools in the shop. I use it every day I'm in the shop and have several versions. What I was lacking was the 1/8" plate to add which I had originally thought would never be needed but was very wrong. Any table saw operation requires thought and consideration but making really thin cuts takes the proper tool and the Gripper or similar should be adjusted and used accordingly. The trip to the emergency room will likely cost you more than a new tool and I'd rather have the new tool rather than a regret.

 

These shots shows my GR-200 GRR-Ripper which I wouldn't like to live without.

 

Harry’s second photo shows an additional key point about the GRIPPER, how easy it is to independently adjust the height of each leg to accommodate the thickness of the wood.

 

I don't disagree with what folks are saying about the GRR-Ripper; I have one and it works well. But even though there's an attachment enabling one to go thinner than 1/4", I think it's far safer to move the offcut to the left side of the blade for thinner strips. That is especially true if you have anti-kickback pawls instead of a riving knife. There are several techniques for this, the most common being a stop on the left of the blade.

There is a nice breakdown of the options on the wood whisperer site. I would post the URL but alas, "You are only allowed to post URLs once you have at least 10 posts."

A shop-made left-side miter slot stop is easy to make. They can be slightly finicky if your fence moves (even slightly) when you lock it down but you'll figure this out quickly.

 

Steven
I see you joined 4 years ago, 9 more posts and you can post URLs
it is there to keep spam down!

 

Sorry for the upside down pics. I went for the total package. I really like the flat plate for an additional push towards the fence if needed. The videos on their site are helpful.

 

Watch you fingers ( I had to pay stupid tax at ER). I use masking tape and gorilla Gel super glue. Run a piece of 3/4 scrap plywood. Make it wide enough to keep you hands clear. I made a handle for mine and mounted it a slight angle in this will keep piece tight to fence for the length of cut. Now the secret is to stand plywood on edge run a piece of 3/4 making tape, Then on the piece wish to orient it and place masking tape to the edge opposite of your desired cut end. Place SG along one side of sled or work , whichever is shorter. place sled against fence and the press the two pieces of masking tape together and set desired size of wood on the left side of blade, push thru There will not be any stupid tax to pay. Separate sled and wood by breaking the tape will let go from wood so nothing is glued together is the masking tape. I was ripping 1/16 and 1/8 strips and used this tool. ordered it at amazon works fantastic. The piece will be uniform You cannot make it for less POWERTEC 71059 Thin Rip Table Saw Jig. I have grr-rip but the toll is much better

 

thanks

 

I've got a Grrrrrripper (however you spell it), and like it. Won it, didn't buy it. I'm 77, started out helping my grandfather when I was probably 7 or 8. Started using power tools in 9th grade, table saw in 10th grade. No riving knife or kick back thingies on my saw. Never had a kickback yet, and don't plan on having one. BUT, just in case, I always stand out of line with the blade. Learned that one in the 10th grade, when our shop teacher demonstrated kickback, and described what caused it. And I still remember that piece of wood hitting the wall. Unless I am holding a piece of wood well away from the blade, I use push blocks, not so often push sticks. I set my blade so it just cuts the top of the wood, then use a push block, with a handle, thick enough that I can pass right over the blade and it will just make a very small cut on the bottom of the push block, and impossible to cut me. It helps to be a bit scared of the saw, or anytool with whirly parts that can bite you; it make you careful.

You see pictures and videos of people standing in line with the blade of a saw, a lot of time supposedly skilled woodworkers. Which just about guarantees that if there is kickback, they are going to get hit. Standing out of line with the blade is one of the best safety measures you can take with a table saw.

 

Another approach i’ve Found when ripping thin pieces is to use a magnetic clamp to hold the shop vac hose just to the left of the piece being cut off The vacuum will pull the thin piece over and hold it in place. I’ve never tried for pieces wider than 1/2” however. Believe the approach was originally posted on this forum but not sure by who.
obviously not a cure for kickback but helpful with the upside of pulling off some sawdust as well.

 

I learned how to rip thin pieces of stock the hard way and got my finger. I was very lucky to come away with just a nasty cut to the index finger that left a nice scar. Since then, if I need a piece of stock less than a push stick, I cut it from a much larger piece. For example, if my piece needs to be 2" x 1/4", I will cut a piece 5" (by 8' or whatever I need to get the lineal feet needed) and then start my 1/4" rip. Taking it nice and slow, the blade is never exposed except at the end. I can even flip the board to the opposite side when done and run another 1/4" run. Then, after the 1/4 rips are in the 5" board, I will lay the board down and rip the 2" needed and no finger(s) are subjected to blade danger. Yet, with this method, it is very obvious that I do not have my blade (top) guard on.

 

The Grrippers are nice, and I now own three, one of them has the narrow side removed and it is dedicated for use on the router table. The other two are mostly for use on the table saw, the two provide the ability to hand over hand feed long boards when ripping. The orange push stick in Harry's photo #5, or any of it's similar designs are very dangerous to use as the primary pushing device on a table saw, because they fail to hold the work down as it's being pushed through the cut, and the rear of the blade can lift the piece easily and throw it at you. They are OK for other purposes, and can be used as a second tool to hold the work against the fence, but your primary "push stick" needs to be of a design that both holds the work piece down and against the fence, as well as push it forward through the cut and beyond the blade. During any of these cuts your hands and fingers should never get less than 6" from the blade or cutter, unless it's fully protected by the pusher device, like when holding the handle of a Grripper.

I use my Grrippers a lot, but still use my shop made pushers for certain operations on my table saw, but every one of them holds the work down as well as pushes it forward, and my hand is always on the handle of it to keep it 6" or more away from the spinney sharp thing. Whenever I'm about to use one of my woodworking tools I mentally go through the process that I'm planning. If any part of the process will put my fingers or any other part of my body closer than 6" to that sharp spinney thing, I'll find another way to do it.

I've been woodworking or helping my dad and uncles do woodworking since I was about 8. I'm almost 78 now, and still have all ten with no scars from those sharp spinney things. Scars from other things yes, but not from woodworking tools.

Charley

 

Like Charley, I preplan almost every cut, working out how to do it best/safely. For thin strips, which I cut often, I have a Rockler thin strip jig, that lets me cut same size strips on the outside edge of the blade and so the fence is moved and the outside piece isn't trapped against the blade. A piece trapped against the fence is more likely to kick back because it's easy to catch it on the blade as you push the last bit through. That's where the Grripper's 1/8th foot comes into play. The alternative as the piece gets thinner and thinner is a long, skinny push block. The pictures are of a variety of push sticks and simple shop made push blocks, any of which will increase safety.

 

The alternative as the piece gets thinner and thinner is a long, skinny push block. The pictures are of a variety of push sticks and simple shop made push blocks, any of which will increase safety.

Yup, safety first. I've got my Grrrrrrripper, and use it. But, I also use push sticks and push blocks a lot - all homemade. But when I start something new, usually cannot find either a push stick, or push block, but always find my Grippper, but not always my first choice. So every time I make new push sticks and/or push blocks, out of leftover pieces. Because if I can't find any, they are usually so chewed up by the saw blade they aren't something I want to reuse.
Works for me.

 

I use the bandsaw for thin strips. Much safer.

 

i have the micro-jig with all the accessories. and i like ir with the exception of the 1/8 inch leg, I've cut 3 of the ripping thin strips. i finally purchased a thin strip rip stop and that took care of that. I've found that an accurate cross cut sled with a a depth stop clamped to fence is the easiest and most safe way to cut repetitive cuts on a piece of wood (and far cheaper than a trip to ER, I do not want to on a first name basis with the Er staff like Tim the Tool Man). Good luck with project.

 

Tom,

I think you should redesign some of those shop made pushers, because they aren't designed with the handle area high enough to be 6" above the blade as your hand passes over the blade while hanging onto it and there is no wide protection between your hand and the blade, like is present with a Grripper. Your first photo shows one that is a great design, but has way to low a handle. At least is does hold the work down and has a rear heel to push the work forward. Some of the others are a bit higher in design, but still not 6" above the blade to the bottom of the handle.

Charley

 

A friend of mine got kickback on a board he was cutting on his tablesaw. He was in the right position and using a pushblock and so had no injury, just a bewildered 'What was that?'
What that was, was represented behind him. He has an interior door behind him and his saw, and his workpiece very nicely impaled it, and nearly went through it.
He thought about it, and trimmed (shortened) the piece, but left it in the door as a reminder...

His wife finally talked him into taking it out, but it was several months.

 

The man that taught me what I do know about working around a table saw has a wicked scar through his right wrist. It was from a kickback that he took straight through his wrist / forearm. It shattered the bones and he had a few surgeries to put it all together. He still has use of that hand but it is much less than the other.

Again, if I am needing a piece of wood 2" x 1/4" x 8', I would rip a 4-5" wide piece first. Then I'd set the fence for the 1/4" cut and raise the blade to cut 2" into the 4" piece. Finally, I'd lay the board down again and set the fence for the final 2" rip. This way, my fingers are never (too) close to an open blade. I have a "saddle" to ride over my table saw fence and I would have a "squeeze" board clamped to the side preventing the board from wobbling as I run the 1/4" run. Even with all that, I still need to stand in the right place and treat the cut with caution.

I also use this technique when cutting raised panels and their styles and rails.

 

I wouldn't get too comp[lacent using a Grripper either. We had a member several years ago who said he was using one and somehow it got flipped over during a cut and he lost fingers as a result. It happened so fast that he wasn't sure how it did it. I tend to suspect that the board had compression stress in the wood and closed up the cut just past the blade and the back side of the blade lifted the board. I never got a chance to ask him for more details but I wonder if he had to push harder as the board went past the blade. I've had a few boards over the years do the same thing. It surprised me the first time but I realized every time after that what was happening and hit the stop button before bad things started happening.

I wonder if that's what happened to the person Old Luddite described? Welcome to the forum Bill, by the way.

 

Doug,

In your photo, what holds the work piece down? Is the blade guard capable of doing this?

I see one of those push sticks in the photo that does not do anything but push the work forward. It does nothing to hold it down. If the blade guard cannot hold the work piece down, using that push stick in this setup is an accident just waiting to happen. I don't even have that kind of push stick in my shop.

Charley

 

here's a couple...

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