[Stick486]

dry lube such as TriFlow...
it doesn't collect dust and makes for a non-stick surface...
years and years of VOE says this works...

.
VOE says WD is a mistake and all myth... it's a wet something or another that attracts all kinds of trash... does way more harm than good in the scheme of things... I've made a lot of money cleaning/fixing/replacing/repairing after the fact...
It makes for a humongous mess [remember this come finishing time] and if it gets into an electric motor kiss the motor goodbye... It's also prone to flash fire and really doesn't work all that well on anything but it's convenient...
I'm real partial to Triflow but most any dry lube will work well providing it's has Teflon/PFTE in it... [higher percentage by volume is more gooder]...
CRC, Tiolube, KG and DuPont each have several most excellent industrial spec DRY SOLID FILM lubricants..
Criteria - dries dry to the touch, high pressure load bearing, contains Teflon/PFTE, barrier forming, extreme temperature range, [usually -100 to +500F] isn't hygroscopic, does not collect dirt, not flammable in dry state, chemical resistant, does not contain silicone, has a long list of compatibles and is really very long lasting... or any of or all the features WD hasn't got any of....

one thing about dry solid film lubricants is that when you apply them and you think that you didn't apply enough you have probably applied too much..
very, very little goes a loooooooooooooooong way...
Just wait until you do your saw's arbor mechanism w/ dry lube.. you and your saw will never be the same... You'll treat everything that moves in the shop in short order... Please thoroughly clean whatever before lubing..
It's a great release agent too...
Dry Film Lubricants are high performance coatings made up of very fine particles of lubricating agents blended with binders and other special additives. Once cured, these lubricating agents bond to the part surface as a solid film which reduces galling, seizing and fretting and protects against corrosion. Through the combination of these properties, dry film lubricants greatly improve the wear life of coated parts.
Dry film/solid film lubricants allow for operating pressures above the load-bearing capacity of normal greases and oils. They are also less prone to collecting soil particulates than greases and oils. In some applications, the coating is self-burnishing, leading to improved, rather than decreased, performance over time. Some blends of dry film/solid film lubricants are also temperature and chemical resistant allowing for their use in harsh environments such as jet engines where exposure to aviation fuel and extreme temperatures are the norm.

 

[Stick486]

Ok I’m sold. Where do I get it? Lowe’s have it?

most everybody has it... or similar...

 

[Stick486]

This is the type of lubricant you want to use if you have a CNC. I have serviced a few machines that people had been using wet type lubricants and among them WD40 and the wet lube attracted dust, built up and packed into the bearing pockets and bearings and caused them to grab and make high pitched squeaks with every move. They just added more lubricant to remedy the problem but it just made things worse.

Bottom line wet lubricants and saw dust don't go together!

you know WD will kill bearings in very short order.....
it dissolves the bearing's lubricant...

 

[Stick486]

@Herb Stoops..

you get rid of your WD40 yet??

 

[Stick486]

Mike,

Can you use that on the tubes and lead screws instead of oil?

yes...
preferred...

 

[Stick486]

I don't have a CNC.
Herb

but you are ignoring or abusing the rest of your tools???
oh the shame...

 

[Stick486]

I use bacon grease I get 100% pure refined from Harbor Freight.
Herb

nothing too good for you Herber..

 

[Stick486]

Looks like I can get it on Walmart’s website for che

make sure you give the container a really good shake up before applying....

 

[Stick486]

:stop: don't use that on rubber or plastic parts, it contains petroleum distillates, which will eventually disintegrate those!.. crazing, hardening, and cracking are a few signs..

and eats bearing seals for snacks...

 

[Stick486]

But wouldn’t the wax leave a residue on wood that would need sanded off to finish?

buff it out...
put a bonnet on your ROS and buff away...
or go find a mega cheap car polisher..
the more you polish/buff the harder and slicker it gets...

Johnson's paste wax for your tables and tools...
You can add Briwax, Black Bison, Behlen, Trewax and Mohawk to the list of acceptable waxes...
If they contain Carnauba wax they will finish harder and be longer wearing/lasting...
You can even add more Carnauba if you want...

http://www.parkbeekeeping.com/products/detail/carnauba-wax

Wax applied to a warm surface is a big plus...
Mechanical polishing over hand buffing is way better.. (elcheapo car buffer or a wool bonnet on your ROS)...
Polishing is what makes the wax work to it's fullest...
More polishing.. Better results...

above all.. make sure it DOES NOT contain silicone...

Wax clean up/removal/thinning is done w/ mineral spirits...
A pound of wax should last way more than a decade maybe even well into the second...
Put it on any tool table surface you have...
Great for plane soles too...
To melt/soften the wax put the container of wax in hot water but not submerged...

Carnauba wax, sometimes also referred to as palm wax or Brazil wax, is a kind of wax that is made from the extracts of palm leaves. These leaves are found on the plant ‘Copernicia prunifera’, a short plant that is usually found in Brazil, especially in the states of Ceara, Rio Grande do Norte and Piaui. Also known as the ‘Queen of waxes’, it is found in yellowish or brownish flakes.

Stick w/ your silicone-less furniture paste wax and avoid possible contamination of your project...

If you are considering candle wax... not all candles are created equal...
You also have to contend w/ dyes in the wax...
Best to steer clear of using candle wax...

Candle making colorants come in a vegetable based block so there is no paraffin in these color blocks.

Candle Wax | Candlewic
Candle Dye, Colors & Pigments | Candlewic

PARAFFIN CANDLES
Paraffin development began in 1830, but manufactured paraffin was not introduced until 1850. It provided an alternative to tallow which gave off an unpleasant odor when burned. In 1854 paraffin and stearin (the solid form of fat) were combined to create stronger candles, very similar to those we use today.

BEESWAX CANDLES
Candles have a wide variety of ingredients, but there are only a few main ingredients that are used throughout most of the world. We will talk about the main types, and the advantages and differences of each.
Most honey and bees wax is collected from July to September. It can come from the pollination of canola, sweet clover or sunflowers. Generally these plants result in a lighter scent and lighter colored beeswax.
There are two types, solid beeswax and honeycomb wax. The solid bees wax candle is created by pouring liquid wax into a candle mold. The result is a smooth, dense candle which burns for an extremely long time. Honeycomb beeswax candles are created by rolling honeycomb textured sheets. The honeycomb candle is less dense and burns faster.
Beeswax candles produce a bright flame, do not drip, do not smoke or sputter, and produce a fragrant honey odor while being burned.

CRYSTAL WAX CANDLES
These are also called wax tarts or wax potpourri. They are made with an all-natural candle wax that holds twice as much fragrance as paraffin wax candles, making them suitable for highly scented candles. They are used with a potpourri warmer (without any water). The fragrance emerges when the candle starts to melt.

GEL CANDLES
Gel candles have a new and unique look. They give off a beautiful illumination and a wonderful aroma. And they burn three times as long as wax candles.
But be careful. Gel candles produce a higher burning flame and they burn much hotter. Too much heat can shatter a glass candle-holder or container which can ignite nearby combustibles, resulting in a room fire. To be safe, never burn a gel candle more than four hours.

SOY CANDLES
Soy wax candles are made from soy beans. They are non-toxic, non-carcinogenic and bio-degradable. They burn up to 40% longer than paraffin candles and burn evenly which means there is no tunneling effect. However, it is not recommended to burn more than four hours at a time. Soy candles are very sensitive to temperature and light. They should be stored away from sunlight, fluorescent lighting and other sources of heat.

 

[Stick486]

Duane...
you need to rinse w/ your Green cleaner...
cover/wrap up the motor and use brake cleaner on the moving/turning parts..
no residues or films left behind.. just raw metal..
be wary of the fumes and keep the cleaner out of the electrical anything and don't inject your bearings...
that ''gummy'' you found is characteristic of grease and WD...

 

[Stick486]

brake cleaner will clean the cleanliness....

 

[Stick486]

Yes I’m gonna have to do that. I was just now out in the shop spraying and wiping some more, and thought the metal was looking pretty clean until I swiped my fingers across the black painted part. It left a visible streak and black residue on my finger. Tomorrow I will thoroughly clean the saw. Will carb/choke cleaner work or is it too strong? It might take the paint off. The can says it cleans all UNPAINTED parts. I’m probably just gonna have to get a can of brake parts cleaner.

Duane...
DO NOT USE choke/carb cleaner..
trust me on this...
CRC makes the best brake cleaner...

make sure you use a rag to catch the drips to avoid making a mess...

 

[Stick486]

what brand of saw is this???
a bronze bushing or a sleeve bearing is a great idea...
skip the staked washer idea.. things could very well go south on ya in a hurry..
2nd choice wold be UHMW...

a WAG says that the tab bent from a lot of extra torquing during the need to move things while your mechanism was loaded up w/ so much crud...

so what wallowed out on/with the red arrow gear??? something did...
oh for the want of some periodic maintenance...

when will you have my full optioned out slingshot ready...

 

[Stick486]

forgot the link...
https://www.globalspec.com/Industrial-Directory/bronze_bushing_size

 

[Stick486]

How about this? Dad had a can of it at his house and said he never could tell the difference in it vs the brake cleaner.

nononononononon... get the brake cleaner and be done w/ it...

 

[Stick486]

Weeeeeell.............

is this gonna be the take the clamps off too early like w/ your table top..???
clean w/ the brake cleaner...

 

[Stick486]

Could it be that there's something deposited on the blade mount that is throwing the blade off a bit? I'd clean it up carefully with a blade cleaner. I don't count on a combination square and use a dial caliper made for the purpose. There are too many things that throw the combination square off slightly.

I have a similar problem with the fence shifting slightly because the T square function is only right on when the T is pulled toward the front rail before locking it down. I have my fence set slightly out from the blade a measured 4/1000 at the far end. In doing this setup using a Woodpecker dial gauge, it turns out my fence is not perfectly straight but bulges a couple of thousandths toward the middle, not enough to matter.

The big thing for me is remembering to check the blade for 90 with a Wixey Digital angle gauge whenever I fiddle with anything on the saw.

Duane said the blade is good but the fence is the issue..

The blade was already dead on straight to the miter slots and that should have been enough for me. I’ve never had a problem getting useable cuts on it when using the fence, but the fence does not lock square to the miter tracks unless I manually force it to align before locking.