forgot the link...
https://www.globalspec.com/Industrial-Directory/bronze_bushing_size
https://www.globalspec.com/Industrial-Directory/bronze_bushing_size
Table saw maintenance
Noticed my table saw blade mechanism was harder than normal to lower today, like I was cranking through resistance. Looked underneath it and saw a lot of sawdust buildup on the mechanisms. I’m thinking this is what I felt, the gears cranking through excess caked on dust. So I’m going to clean all this off and see if it helps. My question is what do I lubricate the gears with? Do I use anything at all? It seems this will just make dust stick to it even more.
41 - 60 of 62 Posts
This is a Ridgid R4513 table saw. I suspect the gear has been wobbling since new because I’ve always seen the blade do the shimmy as it went up and down. Since day one. It’s very very slight, almost imperceptible but I caught it and now I think I know why.
On the tab, yes, I was also wondering if resistance to movement didn’t bend it but I would think that plastic bushing would show signs of wear if that had happened. Everything looks new underneath as I clean it. The only wear I’ve seen was on the washer under the lock nut at the bottom of the shaft. I’m going to replace that. As for the bushing, when the saw is upright this bushing will be under pressure with it being at the bottom and it will or should see wear as the gears turn to lift the motor. So far I see none. It’s not even scratched that I can tell. If something has to wear I’d rather it be the bushing than the gear so if I go to brass, is it possible I’m creating an issue I don’t have now? I registered my saw when I bought it so I have the lifetime service agreement.
Hate to void that. I’m posting a pic of the bushing.
Also at the bottom of the threaded shaft there is an area with no threads. The locknut and washer were loose fitting here as well. They weren’t flat down to the surface at all by about the distance of this non threaded gap. I wonder why that is there? There was nothing missing. I’m going to have to pull up an exploded diagram of parts to see what all is supposed to be there. Also I’m thinking they must have been in contact at one time or there would be no wear on that washer. The fit was far too loose. They backed off during use is what I believe.
On the tab, yes, I was also wondering if resistance to movement didn’t bend it but I would think that plastic bushing would show signs of wear if that had happened. Everything looks new underneath as I clean it. The only wear I’ve seen was on the washer under the lock nut at the bottom of the shaft. I’m going to replace that. As for the bushing, when the saw is upright this bushing will be under pressure with it being at the bottom and it will or should see wear as the gears turn to lift the motor. So far I see none. It’s not even scratched that I can tell. If something has to wear I’d rather it be the bushing than the gear so if I go to brass, is it possible I’m creating an issue I don’t have now? I registered my saw when I bought it so I have the lifetime service agreement.
Hate to void that. I’m posting a pic of the bushing.
Also at the bottom of the threaded shaft there is an area with no threads. The locknut and washer were loose fitting here as well. They weren’t flat down to the surface at all by about the distance of this non threaded gap. I wonder why that is there? There was nothing missing. I’m going to have to pull up an exploded diagram of parts to see what all is supposed to be there. Also I’m thinking they must have been in contact at one time or there would be no wear on that washer. The fit was far too loose. They backed off during use is what I believe.
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Found exploded diagram. All parts are there. There is only the lock nut and washer below that tab and above it are the bushing and gear. I don’t know why that non threaded area is there because it is far wider than the thin washer. Personally I think Ridgid should have made this tab heavier and inserted a bearing here. Think how much smoother that would have made raising and lowering the blade!
Oh I forgot, before anyone thinks that non threaded part is for where the shaft passes through the tab, it isn’t. The shaft it stepped to have a specific spot that seats in the hole in the tab. Like a built in bushing. The non threaded area is below this. I think I’m going to look for a bigger washer to fit here to keep the lock nut on the threads. Otherwise it will thread on down (up) into the area of no threads and it’s already thin itself.
nononononononon... get the brake cleaner and be done w/ it...How about this? Dad had a can of it at his house and said he never could tell the difference in it vs the brake cleaner.
Weeeeeell.............it’s too late. I know I asked but I got giddy and went ahead and used it. It worked really well though. Wiped that stuff right off. Literally no effort and the rag came out pretty nasty! I removed one gear and detail cleaned it but could not get the other off because it required the shaft to be slid out and it would not come out even with all hinderances removed. It actually has a taper past a certain point. Would not come out backwards. Also removed the threaded shaft from the motor lift and thoroughly cleaned it.
Another vote for the Blaster.
is this gonna be the take the clamps off too early like w/ your table top..???Weeeeeell.............
clean w/ the brake cleaner...
I get that but in this case it seems to have worked. Before it looked clean but still wasn’t. After cleaning with the stuff I used it now has no residue at all on it.
In any case I don’t think it will matter. I won’t have 100% true cuts from this saw anyway. I noticed just now another thing that induces blade wobble as it’s raised and lowered. I noticed when I removed the threaded shaft from the motor lift to clean it that it had significant slop in the way it fit and threaded in. I wondered then if it would affect things but figured it was just how it is made (still think this). I figured the guides would hold the motor straight, not this shaft. After reassembling and running it up and down a few times I can see the shaft itself wobbles as the motor is lifted and lowered. The guides don’t hold it straight either. I can use my hand to actually wobble the motor itself while in place and not cranking at all. You might say wear has done this and it may have very well made it worse from the beginning but it has always had this wobble that I could see as I raised and lowered the blade, and I saw no metal shavings at all as I was cleaning it. The guides don’t even look worn, not even the thin sheet metal inserts they have. I think it’s simply engineered this loose, although the threaded rod is a steel shaft passing through an aluminum hole so there is the inevitable metal wear just from that. But the rest is steel to steel.
So I’m gonna lube the mechanisms, put it back together and see what it will do, and either live with it or sell it and move on. This saw has not seen enough use in three years to have worn from a true and solid-state to the point it is now. I have owned it just now three years and it goes months at a time without seeing use. By months I mean most of the year at times. Truly it has only been used very lightly. If it had been bought for jobsite use and was used weekly or daily I could understand wear causing this but since it wasn’t then it was this way from the factory.
In any case I don’t think it will matter. I won’t have 100% true cuts from this saw anyway. I noticed just now another thing that induces blade wobble as it’s raised and lowered. I noticed when I removed the threaded shaft from the motor lift to clean it that it had significant slop in the way it fit and threaded in. I wondered then if it would affect things but figured it was just how it is made (still think this). I figured the guides would hold the motor straight, not this shaft. After reassembling and running it up and down a few times I can see the shaft itself wobbles as the motor is lifted and lowered. The guides don’t hold it straight either. I can use my hand to actually wobble the motor itself while in place and not cranking at all. You might say wear has done this and it may have very well made it worse from the beginning but it has always had this wobble that I could see as I raised and lowered the blade, and I saw no metal shavings at all as I was cleaning it. The guides don’t even look worn, not even the thin sheet metal inserts they have. I think it’s simply engineered this loose, although the threaded rod is a steel shaft passing through an aluminum hole so there is the inevitable metal wear just from that. But the rest is steel to steel.
So I’m gonna lube the mechanisms, put it back together and see what it will do, and either live with it or sell it and move on. This saw has not seen enough use in three years to have worn from a true and solid-state to the point it is now. I have owned it just now three years and it goes months at a time without seeing use. By months I mean most of the year at times. Truly it has only been used very lightly. If it had been bought for jobsite use and was used weekly or daily I could understand wear causing this but since it wasn’t then it was this way from the factory.
Went to Lowe’s after some of the PB Blaster dry lube. They were out of stock. So instead of a $5 large can I ended up with a $4 small bottle of 3-in-1 dry lube. Felt like I got ripped off...........until I tried it.
OH WOW, WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!!
What have I been missing!?!?!?
I want this stuff on everything I own that is mobile! My saw blade goes up and down so smoothly now it’s absolutely amazing. I lubed the gears and threaded shaft that raises it and watched it going down the shaft as it followed the threads. I lubed the tracks the guides ride in for raising the motor, and the pivot points that allow it to shift from 0-45 degrees, even the plastic gear teeth on the wheel that moves it. Then I put some of it in the tracks on the extension table. My saw feels brand new again, and the shimmy I described in the blade from before that was there since the saw is new, well that’s now gone or has been reduced to negligible if any is there at all. I attribute that to wobble in the moving parts from friction but since that is greatly reduced now it seems to have resolved the problem. I’m very impressed with this dry lube. I can see extensive cleaning of my shop coming and this being used everywhere possible.
OH WOW, WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!!
What have I been missing!?!?!?
I want this stuff on everything I own that is mobile! My saw blade goes up and down so smoothly now it’s absolutely amazing. I lubed the gears and threaded shaft that raises it and watched it going down the shaft as it followed the threads. I lubed the tracks the guides ride in for raising the motor, and the pivot points that allow it to shift from 0-45 degrees, even the plastic gear teeth on the wheel that moves it. Then I put some of it in the tracks on the extension table. My saw feels brand new again, and the shimmy I described in the blade from before that was there since the saw is new, well that’s now gone or has been reduced to negligible if any is there at all. I attribute that to wobble in the moving parts from friction but since that is greatly reduced now it seems to have resolved the problem. I’m very impressed with this dry lube. I can see extensive cleaning of my shop coming and this being used everywhere possible.
C'mon over and practice on my stuff -- then you'll know just exactly how to do yours.
I started using Tri Flow on the CNC -- moving parts seem to move better and I'm getting rid of all the sticky sawdust that had built up. Ace carries Tri Flow.
I started using Tri Flow on the CNC -- moving parts seem to move better and I'm getting rid of all the sticky sawdust that had built up. Ace carries Tri Flow.
Some things I don’t understand. I spent probably two hours tweaking and squaring things in my tablesaw today. The blade was already dead on straight to the miter slots and that should have been enough for me. I’ve never had a problem getting useable cuts on it when using the fence, but the fence does not lock square to the miter tracks unless I manually force it to align before locking.
Now I can’t think of a single reason I need to use the fence and the miter tracks together other than with the gauge on a crosscut that I never do (miter saw does this). But I worked and worked to square the fence to the tracks and checked the blade front and back on the same tooth. It was good with the tracks as far as I could “feel” and measure but it was off on the same tooth at the rear of the blade by at least 1/128 to 1/64. Those are guesstimate numbers cause I didn’t measure precisely to see but I know it was less than 1/32. So.....reset to be square with the blade and now it’s off to the tracks again. But the blade measures square to the tracks. How can this be???
I’m using a Swanson square with a metal ruler checked for square against several other squares that are known to be true. But.....if I use the 4” and 2” marks, the fence gauge reads correctly compared to the square. If I use the 1” mark, it’s off a shade. Something is inconsistent somewhere. I’m not going to mess with it anymore because the adjustment screws use a hex head to turn them and both a 5/32 and a 4mm fit it and I can’t tell which for sure is right and BOTH have started to slip inside the hex recess, so.....I’m leaving well enough alone. I have it square enough I can cut wood within a frog hair of accurate (assuming blade runout doesn’t come into play or any other kind of vibration), and all I ever do with it is rip wood and I “might” eventually build a sled for some reason or another, but I dado and groove with a router and miter cut with a miter saw so why am I worrying about it so much?
OCDism I guess.
Now I can’t think of a single reason I need to use the fence and the miter tracks together other than with the gauge on a crosscut that I never do (miter saw does this). But I worked and worked to square the fence to the tracks and checked the blade front and back on the same tooth. It was good with the tracks as far as I could “feel” and measure but it was off on the same tooth at the rear of the blade by at least 1/128 to 1/64. Those are guesstimate numbers cause I didn’t measure precisely to see but I know it was less than 1/32. So.....reset to be square with the blade and now it’s off to the tracks again. But the blade measures square to the tracks. How can this be???
I’m using a Swanson square with a metal ruler checked for square against several other squares that are known to be true. But.....if I use the 4” and 2” marks, the fence gauge reads correctly compared to the square. If I use the 1” mark, it’s off a shade. Something is inconsistent somewhere. I’m not going to mess with it anymore because the adjustment screws use a hex head to turn them and both a 5/32 and a 4mm fit it and I can’t tell which for sure is right and BOTH have started to slip inside the hex recess, so.....I’m leaving well enough alone. I have it square enough I can cut wood within a frog hair of accurate (assuming blade runout doesn’t come into play or any other kind of vibration), and all I ever do with it is rip wood and I “might” eventually build a sled for some reason or another, but I dado and groove with a router and miter cut with a miter saw so why am I worrying about it so much?
OCDism I guess.
Duane - 5/32" = 4mm so either hex key should be OK to use.
Your post is a little confusing, so I'll describe my process:
1. check that the blade is square to the miter slots on your table by placing your square in the slot, then run the blade of the square up against the blade on the TS. Mark the tooth with a magic marker. Ensure you are not bearing up against a tooth but use the flat of the TS blade.
2. rotate the blade to the back of the saw, slide your square to the back of the saw and check the same tooth again - you can use feeler gauges for this to determine how far out you are
3. if you are out, adjust your table square to the blade using your manual's instructions.
4. once that's done proceed to squaring the TS fence to the same slot, in the same manner described above.
5. when you place the square in the slot and bear it up against the TS fence, ensure you use the same amount of pressure, front and back.
6. if your fence is not square, adjust it using the method described in your manual. on my Bosch, there are two hex bolts that are used to to this.
7. some people toe the back of the fence out a couple of thousands to prevent kick back. this is better than having it toed in which will definitely cause kick back. others make the TS fence square front and back.
8. once you've done that, you can check the TS fence against the blade by combining the two methods; ie, your square against the blade, bring the TS fence against the other end of the blade of your square - check front and back.
9. if you've got a dial indicator, you can try to do this in place of your combination square - there are all kinds of videos on youtube showing how to make a holder for the dial indicator.
you mentioned something about not needing to use the tracks and the fence together. Hope you didn't mean using the miter gauge and the TS fence at the same time. That's bad. Never, never, never use the miter gauge and the TS fence together - you're just asking for trouble and it will find you. did I mention NEVER.
let us know how you make out.
Edit: if you're TS fence isn't locking square, then check the tension on the lock. can't remember what type of fence is on your TS so you'll have to check that too
Your post is a little confusing, so I'll describe my process:
1. check that the blade is square to the miter slots on your table by placing your square in the slot, then run the blade of the square up against the blade on the TS. Mark the tooth with a magic marker. Ensure you are not bearing up against a tooth but use the flat of the TS blade.
2. rotate the blade to the back of the saw, slide your square to the back of the saw and check the same tooth again - you can use feeler gauges for this to determine how far out you are
3. if you are out, adjust your table square to the blade using your manual's instructions.
4. once that's done proceed to squaring the TS fence to the same slot, in the same manner described above.
5. when you place the square in the slot and bear it up against the TS fence, ensure you use the same amount of pressure, front and back.
6. if your fence is not square, adjust it using the method described in your manual. on my Bosch, there are two hex bolts that are used to to this.
7. some people toe the back of the fence out a couple of thousands to prevent kick back. this is better than having it toed in which will definitely cause kick back. others make the TS fence square front and back.
8. once you've done that, you can check the TS fence against the blade by combining the two methods; ie, your square against the blade, bring the TS fence against the other end of the blade of your square - check front and back.
9. if you've got a dial indicator, you can try to do this in place of your combination square - there are all kinds of videos on youtube showing how to make a holder for the dial indicator.
you mentioned something about not needing to use the tracks and the fence together. Hope you didn't mean using the miter gauge and the TS fence at the same time. That's bad. Never, never, never use the miter gauge and the TS fence together - you're just asking for trouble and it will find you. did I mention NEVER.
let us know how you make out.
Edit: if you're TS fence isn't locking square, then check the tension on the lock. can't remember what type of fence is on your TS so you'll have to check that too
Could it be that there's something deposited on the blade mount that is throwing the blade off a bit? I'd clean it up carefully with a blade cleaner. I don't count on a combination square and use a dial caliper made for the purpose. There are too many things that throw the combination square off slightly.
I have a similar problem with the fence shifting slightly because the T square function is only right on when the T is pulled toward the front rail before locking it down. I have my fence set slightly out from the blade a measured 4/1000 at the far end. In doing this setup using a Woodpecker dial gauge, it turns out my fence is not perfectly straight but bulges a couple of thousandths toward the middle, not enough to matter.
The big thing for me is remembering to check the blade for 90 with a Wixey Digital angle gauge whenever I fiddle with anything on the saw.
I have a similar problem with the fence shifting slightly because the T square function is only right on when the T is pulled toward the front rail before locking it down. I have my fence set slightly out from the blade a measured 4/1000 at the far end. In doing this setup using a Woodpecker dial gauge, it turns out my fence is not perfectly straight but bulges a couple of thousandths toward the middle, not enough to matter.
The big thing for me is remembering to check the blade for 90 with a Wixey Digital angle gauge whenever I fiddle with anything on the saw.
Duane said the blade is good but the fence is the issue..Could it be that there's something deposited on the blade mount that is throwing the blade off a bit? I'd clean it up carefully with a blade cleaner. I don't count on a combination square and use a dial caliper made for the purpose. There are too many things that throw the combination square off slightly.
I have a similar problem with the fence shifting slightly because the T square function is only right on when the T is pulled toward the front rail before locking it down. I have my fence set slightly out from the blade a measured 4/1000 at the far end. In doing this setup using a Woodpecker dial gauge, it turns out my fence is not perfectly straight but bulges a couple of thousandths toward the middle, not enough to matter.
The big thing for me is remembering to check the blade for 90 with a Wixey Digital angle gauge whenever I fiddle with anything on the saw.
The blade was already dead on straight to the miter slots and that should have been enough for me. I’ve never had a problem getting useable cuts on it when using the fence, but the fence does not lock square to the miter tracks unless I manually force it to align before locking.
Yes the blade is good. It is dead on to both miter slots. Since my last post I attempted to adjust the fence again (and in the process I got my back pain flared up again, spent too long bent over it). I can adjust it dead on but when I tighten the screws it seems to move about 1/64 or so. That drives me nuts, but if nothing else it is at least out in a way that allows for a little wider exit than entry so right now I could use it and not get kickback from that.
I’ll get the manual and read the procedure plus use the method described above. Never occurred to me to use the square between the fence and blade while it is also in the miter track. I checked them individually. I haven’t looked at the manual yet. I’m bad about just diving in on stuff but there are only 4 screws to loosen from the top so I believe that has to be how it’s done.
As of now everything is clean like new based on my recent cleanup and lube. There’s nothing I can see throwing the blade off, but I will look again to be sure. But as said, I could not ask for better alignment from the blade to the slots. If there’s anything inaccurate there I don’t have the ability to see it or measure it. I don’t own a dial caliper. Just metal rulers, squares, and one 6” digital caliper.
I’ll get the manual and read the procedure plus use the method described above. Never occurred to me to use the square between the fence and blade while it is also in the miter track. I checked them individually. I haven’t looked at the manual yet. I’m bad about just diving in on stuff but there are only 4 screws to loosen from the top so I believe that has to be how it’s done.
As of now everything is clean like new based on my recent cleanup and lube. There’s nothing I can see throwing the blade off, but I will look again to be sure. But as said, I could not ask for better alignment from the blade to the slots. If there’s anything inaccurate there I don’t have the ability to see it or measure it. I don’t own a dial caliper. Just metal rulers, squares, and one 6” digital caliper.
Duane - so I looked back through the thread to see what TS you had, then found your manual on line. As I mentioned, if the fence is moving when you lock it down, check the tension on the rear lock. From page 41 of your manual, there is an "adjusting screw" that locks the fence in at the rear - check the alignment and/or tension on that screw to see if you can remove the movement on locking. If you've got your fence adjusted square, I would lock down the fence then play with that rear screw to remove the play in the fence.Yes the blade is good. It is dead on to both miter slots. Since my last post I attempted to adjust the fence again (and in the process I got my back pain flared up again, spent too long bent over it). I can adjust it dead on but when I tighten the screws it seems to move about 1/64 or so. That drives me nuts, but if nothing else it is at least out in a way that allows for a little wider exit than entry so right now I could use it and not get kickback from that.
I’ll get the manual and read the procedure plus use the method described above. Never occurred to me to use the square between the fence and blade while it is also in the miter track. I checked them individually. I haven’t looked at the manual yet. I’m bad about just diving in on stuff but there are only 4 screws to loosen from the top so I believe that has to be how it’s done.
As of now everything is clean like new based on my recent cleanup and lube. There’s nothing I can see throwing the blade off, but I will look again to be sure. But as said, I could not ask for better alignment from the blade to the slots. If there’s anything inaccurate there I don’t have the ability to see it or measure it. I don’t own a dial caliper. Just metal rulers, squares, and one 6” digital caliper.
Whew - I don't like reading manuals so please don't make me read yours again.:grin:
Yes I’m OCD like that. It might be 1/32. I know it’s less than a 1/16, and looks like less than half of a 1/16.
I got my manual and read it. The four adjustment screws I was turning was the way to do it. I also might have the adjustment nut too tight. I’ll look again when my back feels better. I did try the square between the fence and the blade with it in the miter slot. Blade to slot is perfect, but to the fence it is not. Sliding it with the fence unlocked it is perfect but when I lock it it gets loose towards the rear of the blade as I slide the square from front to back. If the square is in the rear position when I lock the fence then I am unable to slide it forward. Definitely a fence problem.
I got my manual and read it. The four adjustment screws I was turning was the way to do it. I also might have the adjustment nut too tight. I’ll look again when my back feels better. I did try the square between the fence and the blade with it in the miter slot. Blade to slot is perfect, but to the fence it is not. Sliding it with the fence unlocked it is perfect but when I lock it it gets loose towards the rear of the blade as I slide the square from front to back. If the square is in the rear position when I lock the fence then I am unable to slide it forward. Definitely a fence problem.
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