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My 40-year old TS is nearing it's time to be retired, and I am hoping to get a few recommendations for a replacement... The old one is 10", 13 amp, 120v, with a 44"x27" top. No HP rating given. I have a 240v plug nearby -- in a garage -- and am not committed to those specs. You can see the stuff I've made at the website below, if interested. It has worked well for many years. Sad to see it go!
 

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My 40-year old TS is nearing it's time to be retired, and I am hoping to get a few recommendations for a replacement... The old one is 10", 13 amp, 120v, with a 44"x27" top. No HP rating given. I have a 240v plug nearby -- in a garage -- and am not committed to those specs. You can see the stuff I've made at the website below, if interested. It has worked well for many years. Sad to see it go!
What brand is it? Some of the older saws are well worth restoring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What brand is it? Some of the older saws are well worth restoring.
Craftsman. I looked at the sears parts site, and the list of parts is paltry. I purchased a Freud sBOX8 blade set -- it seemed the two blades were at different heights. Sent it back to Freud - they said it worked perfectly, and my arbor might be worn. Can't find a replacement part...
 

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the Bosch 4100 will handle everything listed on your website...
 

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Craftsman. I looked at the sears parts site, and the list of parts is paltry. I purchased a Freud sBOX8 blade set -- it seemed the two blades were at different heights. Sent it back to Freud - they said it worked perfectly, and my arbor might be worn. Can't find a replacement part...
Did you tighten them up and rotate them to make sure? I have the box cutter blades and use them all the time, very handy for narrow dado's and rabets,besides box joints.
How would an arbor wear,unless the blades wear slipping? Never heard of that.
HErb
 

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Did you tighten them up and rotate them to make sure? I have the box cutter blades and use them all the time, very handy for narrow dado's and rabets,besides box joints.
How would an arbor wear,unless the blades wear slipping? Never heard of that.
HErb
soft arbor metal...
loose arbor nut...
wobble dado blade...
out of balance HF kind of blade...
 
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Craftsman. I looked at the sears parts site, and the list of parts is paltry. I purchased a Freud sBOX8 blade set -- it seemed the two blades were at different heights. Sent it back to Freud - they said it worked perfectly, and my arbor might be worn. Can't find a replacement part...

Hi Dave...looked through your web site...VERY NICE...

When you install the box set, take a look at the outside blade and where it sits. It's possible that the blade might be falling into the threads. If so, the dado stack might be wider than the arbor (non-threaded portion) can handle.

If that is the case not sure you can do anything about that...the bore on the blades needs to be a good fit on the arbor shaft. Possibly a thinner inner washer might help...?

Is it possible a machine shop might be able to machine a new arbor for you with a longer shaft portion...?

...I'm assuming that's what might be happening, of course...

If you're shopping anyway, try Marketplace on Facebook for a used saw (Unisaw, Powermatic, etc...). There are lots of Craftsman on there and maybe one of them could be the same model as yours...?
 
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Don't know your financial situation, but if that's an issue, then the 4100 is a pretty good choice. But if you are used to a really nice saw and you're OK on cost, then there are a LOT of choices. I finally decided on a Laguna Hybrid saw, which has an American motor, heavy duty trunions and can be use with 110 or 220 hp. It is available in a 36 or 52 inch cutting capacity. It is occasionally on sale for 10 percent off. Or around $1400 to $1500. I love this saw at 110 v, and with increased power from 220v, I could be happily making sawdust for the rest of my life. And there are other saws in that price range to choose from. Sawstop is beautifully engineered, and the safety feature is nice, but

If you are a craftsman doing such fine work, I doubt you will be happy or satisfied with a compromise saw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi Dave...looked through your web site...VERY NICE...

When you install the box set, take a look at the outside blade and where it sits. It's possible that the blade might be falling into the threads. If so, the dado stack might be wider than the arbor (non-threaded portion) can handle.
It's a 2-blade set, cutting 3/8 on one orientation, 1/4" on the other. Here's a pic of a 1/4" cut. The 2nd is a 3/8" cut. The Freud guy said it must be the arbor.... Well, time to get a new one anyway. That's the 4th thing to go wrong -- I fixed the other 3. Might be a 5th soon.
 

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I would not think that an arbor would cause that. If it was that worn, the nut probably wouldn't even tighten anymore.
 

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Jet Xacta

I replace a 1.5 Delta that was in okay condition with a 3 hp Jet. I wanted something with a riving knife and a better guard. The Jet also has better dust collection than the Delta which had virtually none. The fence on the Jet is great and the 3 hp is all I will ever need. I would buy it again.
 

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I would not think that an arbor would cause that. If it was that worn, the nut probably wouldn't even tighten anymore.
offset cutters...
 

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Seeing the cuts, I don't believe the saw is doing that...

It may just be one tooth or more on the blade is slightly higher than the others...or the blade is slightly out of round...or the bore is not exactly in the center...

I would assemble it for a cut, put a bridge over the blade like when you set the height/depth of cut... Then turn the blade by hand with the bridge in place and make sure each tooth clears the underside of the bridge exactly the same way. Maybe you'll find one tooth on one of the blades hits the bridge a bit more than the others...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Seeing the cuts, I don't believe the saw is doing that...

It may just be one tooth or more on the blade is slightly higher than the others...or the blade is slightly out of round...or the bore is not exactly in the center...

I would assemble it for a cut, put a bridge over the blade like when you set the height/depth of cut... Then turn the blade by hand with the bridge in place and make sure each tooth clears the underside of the bridge exactly the same way. Maybe you'll find one tooth on one of the blades hits the bridge a bit more than the others...
I'll have to wait until Freud returns the blade set. They insist that the blades work perfectly on their setup...
 

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Looks like the blade to me. This two blade set probably has one side with a slightly greater diameter than the other. That could easily be a manufacturing problem when brazing the tips to the blade body. To leave that kind of a lip, all the teeth on one side have to be off. Check this out first, and the error will be tiny. If you have a friend with a saw, try the blade set on that, if it does the same thing, it's the blades.

However, it you want a new saw, get one. Then sell the old one to one of the guys here who rebuilds them. :laugh2:
 

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I'll have to wait until Freud returns the blade set. They insist that the blades work perfectly on their setup...

...and check every tooth with the bridge (or equivalent)...it might just be one tooth that's the culprit...
 
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