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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
You've probably read my table saw shopping post. If not here's the reader's digest version.
Got a new Ridgid R4512. All set up. Issue with alignment when raising vs lowering the blade. The saw blade moves to the right when raising, Moves back to the left when lowering.

The saw is perfectly aligned to the miter slot when the blade has been lowered, even just a tiny bit. I mean no more than .001 difference front to back and to the best I'm able to measure, it's less than .001.

When you raise the blade it moves to the right.

How much?

With the blade all the way up (not against the stops. Raise to the stop, lower it 4 turns on the crank, raise it back up 2 turns), the back has moved to the right by 12 thousandths and the front has moved 5 thousandths.

With the blade down where I'd be using it to cut 3/4 inch plywood I have far less blade exposed so the measurement locations on the blade are pretty close together. At this height I see about .004 of movement. Difference between front and back nearly unmeasurable. Maybe .001.

I'm struggling with whether to take it apart and take it back to Home Depot and exchange it for another one OR wait until the weather breaks and take it apart and take it in to a service center to have it repaired under warranty. I just got this saw and really like it and having never had a saw this GOOD, I'm trying to decide if I'm just being anal.

My brain says...
At full extension we're talking about slightly less than 1/64 of an inch. At the height I'll primarily be using it we're talking about way less than 1/128 of an inch. In fact, closer to 1/256 of an inch. AND, as long as I remember to simply back the height adjust wheel off enough to take pressure off the threads, it's in perfect alignment.

What would YOU do? Would you take it apart now and try to exchange it for another one (assuming THAT one doesn't have an issue) or would you use it like it is and see if you want to take it apart when the weather warms up and take it to a service center for repair covered under warranty.

I've already spoken to Ridgid and they tell me it'll be a covered repair. The supervisor told me he had only seen this on one other saw. I've read about it on the internet indicating that several people have had this problem.

Home Depot is willing to get the other one they have unboxed, put the blade and crank handle on it, and check it, and if it's ok they said we can just swap the top half so I don't have to pack up the rest of the saw. Just bring in my top half (table and upper cabinet piece) and keep my fence, rails, wings, etc because I know they're good. I would be able to go in and check it WITH them because I know exactly what I'm looking for.

A dial indicator is a really handy item to have, but I am afraid I'm being anal about the numbers. Are they too small to be concerned with? Also this saw is sitting in an unheated shop. I heat it when I work in it, but otherwise, it's cold. Might this "tighten up" when the weather warms up?

I'd really like to hear from you guys for some advice on this.
Thanks,
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Exchange. Rent the truck for $20 and haul the whole thing back if you have to.
I can move it in my van no problem. It's getting it TO the van that's going to be a bit dicey. I can't drive to the shop. I have to haul the saw over snow-covered yard about 100 feet to get to the driveway. AND I have to get help manhandling the table. I can move it. It's just going to be a hassle. Kinda taking the fun out of getting a new saw. :)
 

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I would return it if there is a defect. I don't think anybody at Home Depot is a qualified technician unless they have been certified by Ridgid to make repairs.
 

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take it back no body at home depot is a repair man they wouldn't look at it any way. Why have it repaired ?? it is new and should work like new out of the box with a few adjustment's. Be sure and regester it . You have to send in a recept and the upc for the lifetime warrenty . Read and you will see that good luck
 

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Sound to me like your expecting a lot out of a top-mounted trunion system and a cheap saw. If your really looking for those kind of tolerances in your saw you need to upgrade to a better grade of saw, mainly a cabinet base mounted trunion. The small amount of runout that you having occur is primarly due to the fact its a top mounted trunion. I think its negligible anyways as a small amount of sanding would take out anything that your complaining about here. even the 1/64th is so small its negligible. Try upgrading to a cabinet saw if you want cabinet style cutting otherwise I would expect exactly what you getting from about any top mounted trunnion saw in that price range. Not trying to start a war just reality checking in.

P.S. If Ridgid did indicate to you that this has occured in other saws as you indicate I would call the HD you purchased it at and have them call the Ridgid rep and explain your moving situation to them and see if the rep can come to your house to do an inspection and replacement . Ridgid is usually pretty good with this kind of stuff and might even be able to solve the problem itself, Also have you checked the blade for flatness as well?,Tommy
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sound to me like your expecting a lot out of a top-mounted trunion system and a cheap saw. If your really looking for those kind of tolerances in your saw you need to upgrade to a better grade of saw, mainly a cabinet base mounted trunion. The small amount of runout that you having occur is primarly due to the fact its a top mounted trunion. I think its negligible anyways as a small amount of sanding would take out anything that your complaining about here. even the 1/64th is so small its negligible. Try upgrading to a cabinet saw if you want cabinet style cutting otherwise I would expect exactly what you getting from about any top mounted trunnion saw in that price range. Not trying to start a war just reality checking in.

P.S. If Ridgid did indicate to you that this has occured in other saws as you indicate I would call the HD you purchased it at and have them call the Ridgid rep and explain your moving situation to them and see if the rep can come to your house to do an inspection and replacement . Ridgid is usually pretty good with this kind of stuff and might even be able to solve the problem itself, Also have you checked the blade for flatness as well?,Tommy
Yes, checked blade for flatness and also checked arbor runnout. Blade is flat and arbor runout less than .001. When this movement occurs, it appears the entire main trunnion is moving. It's not the arbor shaft. The pivot point would have to be forward of the blade edge in order to see .005 at the front and .012 at the back with both being in the same direction.

And your mention of (basically), "what kind of tolerance do you expect from a $500 saw?" does not offend me in the least. It addresses my question and is exactly the input I'm looking for. It addresses the "am I just being too picky?" question because I don't KNOW what to expect from this class of saw.

Not sure if this was clear but nobody at Home Depot is going to fix this. That was never a consideration. If it gets repaired, it would be at the Ridgid authorized service center which is about a 90 minute drive for me.

And again... if I simply relax the pressure on the height adjust by backing off the height adjust wheel in a downward direction.... don't even have to really lower the blade, just take pressure OFF of the UP direction.... then the saw is perfectly aligned and it really cuts beautifully, even with the stock blade. My Onsrud blades arrive today and I have a zero clearance insert waiting.

It's a matter of exchanging it now (assuming the other one they have is ok and doesn't have some OTHER issue or this same one) OR... wait and take it into an authorized service center in a few months.

If the other one at Home depot has this issue, then the decision is made FOR me.
 

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Charlie, Call HD corporate HQ in Atlanta and ask to speak with a customer service rep. Explain whats going on with your saw and I would venture to say that they will contact the HD where you purchased it and either have someone come out with the replacement saw or better yet they'll call a Ridgid rep and have one come out to your home. Also call Ridgid themselves and explain to them whats going on with HD and you and see what they'll do about it. Have you retightened the bolts holding the trunions to the top of the table, as I recall they bolt directly to the steel top,not the side pieces and that may be the issue if those bolts are loose or improperly adjusted. Your right I wasn't saying anything bad about the saw in general thats just the nature of the beast in trunnions not mounted to the cabinet vs table mounted. Hope ya get it straightened out if not pm me with all the info ,I'm here in Atl and I'll see what I can do,Tommy
 

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"just take pressure OFF of the UP direction"

What exactly are you referring to when you say take pressure off.You only need to have the proper height you need to make the cut with maybe an 1/8-1/4 inch more to come thru the surface of the lumber your cutting ,What exactly are you tightening down and how are you doing it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
"just take pressure OFF of the UP direction"

What exactly are you referring to when you say take pressure off.You only need to have the proper height you need to make the cut with maybe an 1/8-1/4 inch more to come thru the surface of the lumber your cutting ,What exactly are you tightening down and how are you doing it?
Taking the pressure off means I crank the handle up to a given height and then instead of simply taking my hand off the wheel, I turn it the other direction just a bit, so the lead screw is no longer putting pressure on the rack.

I think I've decided to take this saw back, much as I hate to move it again. I called the authorized service center that Ridgid gave me and they said, "Yeah we don't work on Ridgid any more. They scre**d us out of several hundred dollars and now they won't take us off their list." So that means there's no service center near me. I called Ridgid again and they're not being helpful or sympathetic.

SO... I think I'm gonna just bite the bullet here and pack this thing up and take it back to Home Depot and get a refund.

THEN.... I just got off the phone with a local place that stocks Steel City table saws. I can get the 35990C or 35990G for $649. That's about $200 more than I paid for the Ridgid, but this other place is also authorized service for Steel City and only about 25 minutes away.

I'm not happy about moving the Ridgid again, and I'm not happy about having to spend another $200 over what's already been approved by She Who Must Be Obeyed, but I'm not seeing any other options that make sense. It sure doesn't make sense to keep telling myself that there's nothing seriously wrong with the Ridgid just because I don't want to move it. The Steel City has cabinet mounted trunions and while I'm not sure of the "T Square Fence", it just overall looks to be a bit better saw. If I get wife approval, I'll have to decide between granite and cast iron. I hear lots of plus and minus about the granite, but being in a mostly unheated shop it may have advantages in not rusting. Cast Iron and Granite being the same price..... not sure. And it doesn't look like the Steel City has any kind of lift system and if I do buy it, there's nothing in the budget for any kind of mobile base. So I'd have to shove it around if I needed to move it.

Trial and tribulations..... I had looked forward to this being fun and right now it's not.
 

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Hey Charlie, I have a Ridgid 4511,one of the last great saws Ridgid made w/granite top. I have considered getting the Steel City myself (don't know why the Ridgid works great). I would like to suggest a way to possibly do this for yourself. Home Depot now sells online the Steel City saws ,35990C 10 in. Cast Iron Contractor Table Saw-35990C at The Home Depot city table saw&storeId=10051 as well as Lowes, Shop STEEL CITY 1.5-HP 10" Table Saw at Lowes.com model you are talking about as well as the granite top. I would tend to shy away from the granite unless you live in a very humid part of the country as the steel will rust unless properly cared for. Now I would suggest you call HD customer care anyways and complain about the saw and see if they would be able to ship the Steel City saw directly to you with them p/u the shipping cost and allowing a 10% price reduction as well to compete with Lowes. See what they say and you can return the Ridgid for a store credit, saving everyone a lot of hassle and keeping you in their good graces as a customer.Might be worth a try and as you may have noticed under my name there's a little thing saying bargains finder, perhaps this might work for you as well or tell them you have a local distributor that has the Steel city at a much lower cost and see if they will price match them and p/u the shipping cost to keep you as a loyal customer, just a thought,Tommy
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hey Charlie, I have a Ridgid 4511,one of the last great saws Ridgid made w/granite top. I have considered getting the Steel City myself (don't know why the Ridgid works great). I would like to suggest a way to possibly do this for yourself. Home Depot now sells online the Steel City saws ,35990C 10 in. Cast Iron Contractor Table Saw-35990C at The Home Depot city table saw&storeId=10051 as well as Lowes, Shop STEEL CITY 1.5-HP 10" Table Saw at Lowes.com model you are talking about as well as the granite top. I would tend to shy away from the granite unless you live in a very humid part of the country as the steel will rust unless properly cared for. Now I would suggest you call HD customer care anyways and complain about the saw and see if they would be able to ship the Steel City saw directly to you with them p/u the shipping cost and allowing a 10% price reduction as well to compete with Lowes. See what they say and you can return the Ridgid for a store credit, saving everyone a lot of hassle and keeping you in their good graces as a customer.Might be worth a try and as you may have noticed under my name there's a little thing saying bargains finder, perhaps this might work for you as well or tell them you have a local distributor that has the Steel city at a much lower cost and see if they will price match them and p/u the shipping cost to keep you as a loyal customer, just a thought,Tommy
Thanks. I'll give 'em a call and see what they say.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Let us know how it goes,good luck
They basically said it's up to the individual store manager. They were nice and said they'd schedule a follow-up and I have no complaint about how that was handled except they apparently leave all of this stuff up to individual store managers. I made it clear I had no complaint about how the store manager was treating me, but that I no longer wanted the Ridgid saw. I mean, what good is their warranty if there's no place around that will service it? And they won't send me the parts to fix it saying it's "too big of a job". I used to be a millright. These have FAR fewer parts than the stuff I used to work on. :)

They are currently showing the Steel City 35990C at $876.99 (crazy!) and I can get it locally from another place that usually has them in stock for the sale flyer price of $649. AND that place can service them. HD will have to really be able to sweeten the pot if they don't want me to just get a refund and walk away.

If I get the Steel City saw, I think I'd get the cast iron rather than the granite. I mean... I already bought paste wax <grin> and the granite not being magnetic might be an issue later. I'd be fine with the all cast iron model. I'd be ok with the one with stamped steel wings too but geeeesh for $50 you couldn't buy the wings later. Probably couldn't buy ONE of the wings later for $50. Might as well get 'em now.

Wife seems at least understanding. Not happy about spending another couple hundred bucks, but..... we'll see how this all shakes out.
 

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Where all the measurements you've given in inches? .005 inch = 5 thousands?

Do you have calipers? Measure a sheet of paper. .004 inches on my calipers measuring a sheet of paper that I use in my laser printer.

Is that what we are talking about?

I would be pleased if I could **measure** to those tolerances. I'm not talking cutting, I'm talking measuring the wood to be cut.

If it were me, I'd raise the blade up then slightly down and be done with it.

My two cents.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Where all the measurements you've given in inches? .005 inch = 5 thousands?

Do you have calipers? Measure a sheet of paper. .004 inches on my calipers measuring a sheet of paper that I use in my laser printer.

Is that what we are talking about?

I would be pleased if I could **measure** to those tolerances. I'm not talking cutting, I'm talking measuring the wood to be cut.

If it were me, I'd raise the blade up then slightly down and be done with it.

My two cents.
I don't totally disagree, but the saw is apart and I'm just waiting for help getting it from the shop to the van and it's going back. It ain't right, Ridgid says they wouldn't want anyone using a saw that shifts the blade like this, and I'm taking the manufacturer's advice. The place they told me is my local warranty repair center won't do business with them any more so there's no service anywhere near me. So much for the warranty.

Home Depot has been great through all of this. Ridgid.... not so much. So it's going back and I'm pretty sure I'll be getting a Steel City 35990C. That's not final yet. But I can get it local and the place I'd be buying it from also services them. I'm still kinda bummed. I liked the Ridgid. This one just didn't work out.
 

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I know you are excited about your new table saw and you want it perfect because it is new but.......................... its pretty darn close. Call it square and start cutting! :)

Take a piece of sheet good with a factory edge... rip it... flip the cut piece end to end and butt it against its former mate. How does it look? There's your answer. It either looks square or it doesn't. My guess is it looks square.

It just sounds like a giant hassle to replace a saw that works close enough to perfect. I hope it works out for you soon and that you get to start enjoying it or one like it!
 

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The place they told me is my local warranty repair center won't do business with them any more so there's no service anywhere near me. So much for the warranty.
Now that is a shame. Fortunately you found this out before a few months down the road.

You have got me interested in this model saw. It might fit in my tight space called my shop (aka "one car garage"). I'd have to check out warranty service based on your experience.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I know you are excited about your new table saw and you want it perfect because it is new but.......................... its pretty darn close. Call it square and start cutting! :)

Take a piece of sheet good with a factory edge... rip it... flip the cut piece end to end and butt it against its former mate. How does it look? There's your answer. It either looks square or it doesn't. My guess is it looks square.

It just sounds like a giant hassle to replace a saw that works close enough to perfect. I hope it works out for you soon and that you get to start enjoying it or one like it!
It's not just that it was "off". It was off in a bad way. It would have pinched the wood at the back of the cut. That's not safe and it's probably why the manufacturer recommended not running the saw with this defect. And I think that's one of the key points in my decision to return it. The MANUFACTURER advised that it wasn't safe to run it this way. Add into that the fact about no service available in my area and I felt it had to go back. I really spent some time with it yesterday to see if I could adjust it so it wouldn't shift so much or get it to where any shift was at least predictable. Couldn't do it. Every time you touch the height adjust crank the blade moves right or left depending on whether you touched it in an UP direction or DOWN direction. The entire main trunnion was moving right and left. If it was predictably a few thousandths and if it remained parallel when shifting, I may have decided to keep it. But it was more like the back of the blade was swinging left and right and the front movement was less. At its worst, it was swinging about .020 (blade full up).

I don't expect perfection in my price range. But I think I expect better than what I got. AND with no ability to get it fixed.... the warranty is worthless to me. It's going back and it looks like I'm going to give the Steel City 35990C a try. I've read about some issues at least one reviewer had with that model as well (drive puleys misaligned and not enough adjustment available to properly tension the drive belt.... he bought a smaller belt), but with a local service place behind it, I'm hoping they'll take care of any issues. I'm certainly going to raise these concerns before I buy it.

My backup plan would be the Craftsman 21833 which is basically the same as the R4512, but at least I'd have Sears service. I really liked a lot of things about the R4512. The whole situation is kind of a bummer. :)
 

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I don't expect perfection in my price range. But I think I expect better than what I got. AND with no ability to get it fixed.... the warranty is worthless to me. It's going back and it looks like I'm going to give the Steel City 35990C a try. I've read about some issues at least one reviewer had with that model as well (drive puleys misaligned and not enough adjustment available to properly tension the drive belt.... he bought a smaller belt), but with a local service place behind it, I'm hoping they'll take care of any issues. I'm certainly going to raise these concerns before I buy it.

My backup plan would be the Craftsman 21833 which is basically the same as the R4512, but at least I'd have Sears service. I really liked a lot of things about the R4512. The whole situation is kind of a bummer. :)
Between those two choices, I would go with Steel City saw. The Craftsman is TOO much like the Ridgid(nearly identical). Also I am not too impressed with Sears service on power tools. If its not running they can probably make it run, but I wouldn't count on getting too much help aligning it!
 
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