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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My patch job on my Craftsman 113.298762 let loose. The pulleys started slipping again (maybe a little more than started) on both the motor and arbor. I've heard that machined pulleys are better than the stamped ones. Seems the screws and keys keep letting loose on me.

I like this saw, plus it's a bear to move out of the basement. Should I try it again or bite the bullet and go for a new one?

Is In Line Industries the place to go for these parts, or are there others??
 

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install one screw on top of the other as lockdown......
 

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If the motor has a lot of starting torque then that might be the problem. If the arbor doesn't have a keyway and the pulleys are gripping with only grub screws then I would drill a shallow hole where the grub screw goes on the shaft. Browning sheaves are much better than the cast potmetal ones and aren't that expensive in the sizes you need and single groove. https://motorsandcontrol.com/brands/browning/v-belts-v-belt-pulleys/pulleys-sheaves/
 

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If the motor has a lot of starting torque then that might be the problem. If the arbor doesn't have a keyway and the pulleys are gripping with only grub screws then I would drill a shallow hole where the grub screw goes on the shaft. Browning sheaves are much better than the cast potmetal ones and aren't that expensive in the sizes you need and single groove. https://motorsandcontrol.com/brands/browning/v-belts-v-belt-pulleys/pulleys-sheaves/
good choice of sheaves...
 

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My friend has a woodmizer saw mill. same problem. pulley would move on shaft. tried liquid materials on set screw. did not stop problem. Then I added silcon to both sides of key in grove. no movement since then. let it dry for at least a day
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
My friend has a woodmizer saw mill. same problem. pulley would move on shaft. tried liquid materials on set screw. did not stop problem. Then I added silcon to both sides of key in grove. no movement since then. let it dry for at least a day
what is silcon?

Just looking at the In-Line site. According to them the motor has a 2 1/2" pulley and the arbor is a 2 1/4". The ones that failed were both 2 1/2". Does that make a difference?
 

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Graingers has the good pulleys, Also don't use plated keys. If your pulley doesn't have a keyway...File a flat on the shaft for the set screw to set against. Using double set screws can lead to more problems than it solves.
 

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Lots of cures suggested to try. If they don't work, get a new, better saw. I can imagne how frustrating an unreliable tool can be. Of course, what you get will depend a lot on your budget.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Lots of cures suggested to try. If they don't work, get a new, better saw. I can imagne how frustrating an unreliable tool can be. Of course, what you get will depend a lot on your budget.
It's not so much the budget as the weight, Tom. I have to get it down the stairs into the basement.

Think I'll try one more fix. Then, it's time to "explore" alternatives. I got a portable contractor saw as a back up. Still got 25 custom orders to get out and a whole lot of squaring up and gluing to do, since Menards doesn't have any of my blanks in stock.
 

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what is silcon?

Just looking at the In-Line site. According to them the motor has a 2 1/2" pulley and the arbor is a 2 1/4". The ones that failed were both 2 1/2". Does that make a difference?
It affects saw rpm/torque and not much else. A larger pulley on the motor speeds the saw up and drops torque. A small pulley on the motor and large pulley on the saw arbor slows it down buts increases torque. About the slowest a 10" saw should be running is 3500 rpm. If the motor is a 3450 rpm then the pulleys should be equal size.

In thinner material a faster saw may give smoother cuts as it has more bites per minute and gullets can dump the sawdust before they overload which affects the saw staying in a straight line and produces heat which can distort the blade. Some 10" saws run at around 4500 rpm but most of those can lug down easily. In thicker material extra torque will help keep the saw from bogging down but you have to watch feed speed and not overload the gullets. So you can play with that a little if you want based on what you normally use the saw for. You can calculate saw speed by taking the saw pulley diameter and dividing it by the arbor pulley diameter and multiplying that times the motor rpm.
 

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Lots of cures suggested to try. If they don't work, get a new, better saw. I can imagne how frustrating an unreliable tool can be. Of course, what you get will depend a lot on your budget.
Getting the old saw out of the basement is a chore. I suggest you give the Laguna Hybrid saw a look. Excellent performance and build, and when you take the wings off, it's got a reasonable footprint (for the stairs), and I was able to move it by myself (I was only 68-69 at the time). I did a lot of research before buying the Laguna. the 36 inch version was as large as I could manage in my shop, but for just about $100 more you can get a 52 inch version. It wsa on sale when I bought it at Rockler. It isn't a particularly fancy looking saw, but it is a reliable machine with belt drive, an American made Leeson motor that runs on either 115 v or 220 v. It has decent dust collection you can improve with a Shark Guard, and the table is FLAT!. The lower voltage gives 1.75 hp, adequate for up to 7 quarter material. I know there are lots of saws in this class, this is the one I chose.
 

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I'm with Tom get a new saw. You'll have a good saw for the rest of your life so get the best and biggest you can afford even a good used one. Don't be too concerned about the weight you can take the top off and the motor off and that will make a large saw like a Unisaw or a Powermatic 66 very easy to move. If all else fails hire a company to take it downstairs. In the long run you'll never remember what it cost but you'll appreciate the quality of the saw. The table saw is the heart of your workshop.
 

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Powermatic 66 was one of the saws I considered. Beautiful machine, but 500+ lbs. Not sure it will go down a staircase. Laguna packs the saw on a small pallet, completely encased in ply. Several pieces of hardware and the wings are packed separately, and the footprint of the saw will allow you to use a hand truck to move it down the stairs. I can't speak to other brands, but I suspect many of the hybrids are about the same weight, but I can only speak to the saw I own.
 

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look to the Bosch 4100...
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Well,

I put new pulleys on with new keys, loc tited the screws, and fired it up. Ran quiet like it should. Stuck my chest out and said Hooray!!!!!

Crosscut 2 boards -- cut great. Started to rip a 1" pine panel -- d**n pulley slipped on the arbor. Shoved it off to the side and dug the Kobalt contractor special out and finished the cut.

Looks like its new, or at least different, saw time. The little Kobalt is ok for an emergency, but not for all I do. Gonna start looking. Don't need a great saw - just a good one.............. reasonable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Re tightened everything real good and tried it again. Trying to cut 1" pine stops the blade, then blows the breaker. Pulleys are tight, but the motor shaft is hot (this is the new Leeson) as well as the Arbor pulley and shaft. Just wondering........ Bad belt maybe?
 

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Take the belt off and see if the motor runs hot with no load. It shouldn't. The pulley walking off sideways is an indication that something is out of alignment usually. What blade are you using? It shouldn't make enough difference on 1" pine to do what you are describing but I'm curious. There is something not right there and the trick is to find out what it is. You can over tighten belts and that can take bearings out. Pushing a finger against the belt with good pressure should give about 1/2" of deflection as a rough rule.
 

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John, I had a good friend who passed away about a year ago, who inherited a jet super saw table saw from his uncle who never used it (Died from cancer just after purchase). Anyway his son wanted to sell it and may still have it. The saw is on wheels and has the extra wing to the right, and the sliding table on the left (for cutting panels) fence, and protractor. I downloaded a picture of the basic saw from the internet to give you an idea. There is one accessory missing for the sliding table though...that bolts to the sliding table. It apparently got misplaced and was never found during the storage moves.

If you are interested I can check if he still has it, and get you connected with him.
 
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