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Getting my Craftsman Table Saw Rip fence parallel to the blade has been a constant aggravation and always with mixed success. I have seriously contemplated replacing the Rip fence many times, but every time, I dismiss the idea because I’d rather apply the $$$ towards a new saw. So until I can justify the cost of a new saw, I decided to deal with real problem.

It finally occurred to me that my problem wasn’t really with the rough movement of the fence, but with the final alignment … so I designed the $5 rip fence setting guide shown. It works off the miter slot on either side of the blade, aligning the fence at both ends. I can set the rip width between the control rod and fence positioner on the primary block, and then stack the second block (aligned by biscuit) to set the second positioner equal to the first.

I lined 3/8” holes in the oak blocks with ¼” tubing. I needed to insert half the tubing into each end of the hole – I could not insert a full 2” length of tubing. The rods were 1/4” aluminum … the zinc plated steel versions that I had seemed somewhat undersized and didn’t have the friction to hold them in place. If you make the control rod an exact length (mine is 7”), it makes the math from the right miter slot much easier.
 

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Great! Gave me an idea how to build my own set, rather than buying them.
I am going to make a set for my router table and table saw.
 

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Theo
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I had to look at the pictures before I understood what you were saying. Nice solution. Gave me a great idea on how to set my own fence.

I take that back. It gave me a 'couple' of ideas, I just thought of the second one just after I hit submit. I'll be using fixed spacing, as I only cut two or three widths with what I do, but don't think I'd have thought of it without the inspiration from your idea.
 
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