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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have one of the large Kobalt miter saw stands that folds up. Originally I bought this for the matching miter saw but recently I built a dedicated stand for that, complete with wooden top, storage cubbies, and work piece supports. Might make a post on that in another thread.

So now I want to turn the leftover saw stand into a mobile workbench that I can take to work. I’m planning to add a place for my DW611 palm router as well, since it’s small, light weight, and had a vac port built in which is ultra convenient. So that’s the background.

Now for the question. I read once that someone had drilled a hole in the table top of their router table on the outfeed side of the bit and this helps to evacuate sawdust on dado cuts. Since this router has such a small base, I have limited room for that out past the bit if I want to stay inside the base and use the vac port. Is there any reason I can’t use a teardrop shaped bit opening with the oblong end on the outfeed side and get similar and decent results?
 

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I don't see why not Duane but it will only be effectual on the outfeed side unless you are feeding both directions which is always something to remember when cutting grooves on a table. If you are using a bit that requires two passes and moving the fence in between you have to be careful to do it in the right order or the second pass will need to be reversed, i.e. left to right instead of right to left.

If you make the first pass and then move the fence back you stay with right to left but if you move the fence ahead then feed direction and bit rotation are in the same direction so that pass should be reversed feed direction instead.
 
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Good question and answer. I simply cut a hole in the plate on the left side, which helps, it is also a good idea to camfer the bottom of the fence (about 1/8th inch) for sawdust relief. I also make a practice of using a brush to clear off the table top between passes. It doesn't take much sawdust under the workpiece to mess up a precision cut.

I've replaced the original plate on the table which got me thinking about adding a diagonal line of holes parallel to the bit, and I'll probably use a countersink bit to slightly camfer the edge of the hole so it won't catch the edge of the workpiece. The devil is in the details.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I’ve never even so much as considered running wood from left to right on a router table due to the potential for it to be thrown. That never dawned on me that it could be done until I started thinking about the situation you described. I can see how that works but isn’t there still the potential for the wood to come away from the fence as the bit enters the cut?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Oh, one more thing. It may not even be the issue I’m imagining. I was planning to use my largest forstner bit of 1-3/8” to drill the bit opening in the table top (there won’t be a removable plate) and I can’t see me ever making a larger dado than 3/4 so there’s liable to be plenty of room around the bit anyway to suck in sawdust. I suppose I can try it with a round hole and then see if it’s necessary to enlarge it.

The primary function of this project is to be a “jack of all trades” workbench. I am trying to design it with as much versatility and functionality built in as possible so my mind is literally puking ideas right now.
 

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I’ve never even so much as considered running wood from left to right on a router table due to the potential for it to be thrown. That never dawned on me that it could be done until I started thinking about the situation you described. I can see how that works but isn’t there still the potential for the wood to come away from the fence as the bit enters the cut?
Yes, but if you weren't thinking ahead when you started the groove then you could wind up where you have to do it. Being aware of all the issues is how to keep from getting into trouble. If you had to feed left to right you would want to use a featherboard if there is room. Otherwise keep good pressure against the fence and feed slowly.

In a perfect world we never screw up. It's good to know how to deal with them when they happen. That's the voice of a lot of experience on the subject. I would think that a 1 3/8 hole should do it too but at the same time I've heard that the inserts with all the extra holes in them (can't remember who makes them right now) are supposed to really help with dust removal.
 

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Oh, one more thing. It may not even be the issue I’m imagining. I was planning to use my largest forstner bit of 1-3/8” to drill the bit opening in the table top (there won’t be a removable plate) and I can’t see me ever making a larger dado than 3/4 so there’s liable to be plenty of room around the bit anyway to suck in sawdust. I suppose I can try it with a round hole and then see if it’s necessary to enlarge it.

The primary function of this project is to be a “jack of all trades” workbench. I am trying to design it with as much versatility and functionality built in as possible so my mind is literally puking ideas right now.
I think I would use a hole saw. Good luck and be safe.
 

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Oh, one more thing. It may not even be the issue I’m imagining. I was planning to use my largest forstner bit of 1-3/8” to drill the bit opening in the table top (there won’t be a removable plate) and I can’t see me ever making a larger dado than 3/4 so there’s liable to be plenty of room around the bit anyway to suck in sawdust. I suppose I can try it with a round hole and then see if it’s necessary to enlarge it.

The primary function of this project is to be a “jack of all trades” workbench. I am trying to design it with as much versatility and functionality built in as possible so my mind is literally puking ideas right now.
Have you considered the thickness of the tabletop,' if you attach the Palm router under it not mounted on a plate, will you still have enough depth adjustment? Palm routers usually dont have the depth adjustment of a full sized router and a 3/4" thick top doesn't work very well.
Just a thought,
Herb
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Oh, one more thing. It may not even be the issue I’m imagining. I was planning to use my largest forstner bit of 1-3/8” to drill the bit opening in the table top (there won’t be a removable plate) and I can’t see me ever making a larger dado than 3/4 so there’s liable to be plenty of room around the bit anyway to suck in sawdust. I suppose I can try it with a round hole and then see if it’s necessary to enlarge it.

The primary function of this project is to be a “jack of all trades” workbench. I am trying to design it with as much versatility and functionality built in as possible so my mind is literally puking ideas right now.
Have you considered the thickness of the tabletop,' if you attach the Palm router under it not mounted on a plate, will you still have enough depth adjustment? Palm routers usually dont have the depth adjustment of a full sized router and a 3/4" thick top doesn't work very well.
Just a thought,
Herb
Yes, and I have even removed the baseplate of the router to experiment with collet height. It actually has quite a bit of extension. I will still have to not seat my bits as deeply as I normally do, which is within about 1/8 inch of the paint on them, but it will still work well even showing 1/4 inch of the shank. My bits will still be seated well over an inch deep inside the collet and I will be able to raise them to full cutter height. Even if I just route out a 1/16 or 1/8 deep recession below the table then I wouldn't have to watch this at all, but it's completely unnecessary. I've noticed all of my DeWalt routers are able to extend the collet well beyond where it could even be used. My DW618 models are capable of 1/4 collet extension beyond the polycarbonate baseplate with no bit in it. It would be impossible to use that way, and if the baseplate wsss removed then it would add almost another 1/4 inch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Oh, one more thing. It may not even be the issue I’m imagining. I was planning to use my largest forstner bit of 1-3/8” to drill the bit opening in the table top (there won’t be a removable plate) and I can’t see me ever making a larger dado than 3/4 so there’s liable to be plenty of room around the bit anyway to suck in sawdust. I suppose I can try it with a round hole and then see if it’s necessary to enlarge it.

The primary function of this project is to be a “jack of all trades” workbench. I am trying to design it with as much versatility and functionality built in as possible so my mind is literally puking ideas right now.
I think I would use a hole saw. Good luck and be safe.
Had not considered this but I may just do that to get a little larger hole. They normally leave a rough hole though. Why do you prefer this over a forstner bit?

My largest 1/4 shank bit is a 3/4 roundover and has a diameter of 1-1/2 inches and if I had the hole cut out to that size then I could use all of my 1/4 bits in it. I had considered using the 1-3/8 forstner and then putting the larger bit in and raise the router to let it cut its way through, but with the router base unlocked it has way too much slop in it and I wouldn't feel safe even just shaving 1/16 off as the bit was raised.
 

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I have a 611 too and I don't think it will allow a bit over 1 3/16 through it's base hole. Unless you can mount it with the base off. I never thought of using mine in a table so I never checked that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have a 611 too and I don't think it will allow a bit over 1 3/16 through it's base hole. Unless you can mount it with the base off. I never thought of using mine in a table so I never checked that.
I removed the baseplate for table mounting it so I'm only limited now by the size of hole I can cut. The base itself with the baseplate removed will hold far larger bits than the router could even spin, or that are likely even available. It has about a 3-1/2 inch throat. All I need to get are some new longer screws to mount it with.
 
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