[genaccmiller]

I am using guide bushings on my Ryobi router with a straight bit and not a flush trim bit. I find that the thickness of wood I can do is 0.75 inches since the cutting length on my router bits are 0.75 inches. Even at 1/8 inch per pass the max material thickness I can route is 3/4 inches. If I try to increase it then the amount of router bit in the collet will be lesser and can cause instability. Ideal I wanted to use template routing on thicker workpieces like a 2x6 for chair legs etc. How do I get around this limitation?

Also can someone share some links to how I can use template guide bushings to create curved chain legs or profiles?

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[genaccmiller]

A router bit is ideally designed to cut to a depth of 1/2 of the diameter of the bit. That means that a 1/4" bit should cut 1/8" passes, which equals eight passes per inch of depth. Your bit that has two inches of blade width means the END of the bit can be machined down many times to give you a new blade edge at the TIP.

If you want to hog through a nice oak 2x6 in one pass with a two inch two-flute bit made out of Unobtanium, you are better off using a bandsaw to achieve the basic shape. Then route the corners with fillet bits, sand and shape accordingly.

Now, if you can afford a three-phase wood gobbling monster that CAN pass through a 2x6 plank of REAL WOOD in a single pass REPEATEDLY, then go for it. Those machines are out of MY budget!

Joe

No that's not the point I was making. Even if I do 1/8 inch passes the max the bit will go is 3/4 inches before I hit the router plate at max extension. I am asking what can be done to go lower and be able to cut through 1.5 inch thick material.

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[genaccmiller]

You can purchase a longer bit. I took a quick look at the MLCS catalog and they have a straight bit with a .5" shank that is 1.25" long. I'm just a hobby woodworker and don't have a lot of router experience but it seems like lot of material you trying to remove. I think I get a longer bit and try doing it in a couple of passes. I'm sure someone with have a better plan.

Again I am not saying I won't do multiple passes. But multiple passes won't do anything if my router bit is not long enough to get through 1.5 inch stock.

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[genaccmiller]

Can you flip the stock over and route from the opposite side?

I could but then wouldn't I need to remove the double sided tape and attach again and what if things are not aligned?

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[genaccmiller]

I've pattern flush trimmed 1.5" thick hardwood for table legs in the past. That was using a bottom bearing 1.625" cutter spiral flush trim bit in a router table. Before flush trimming I band sawed the legs within 1/16" or so of the final surface.

The straight bit I have has a 1 inch blade surface and can't do this.

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[genaccmiller]

When that happens to me I invest in a longer bit. Consider it an investment for current and future projects. With simple straight bits I used a template bushing plate insert and make templates that are smaller than the finish part by the difference between the router bit and the bushing diameters. Long straight bits are usually less expensive than long pattern bits. Always with a 1/2" shank.

This is my routable top: Veritas Tools - Router Tables and Accessories - Router Table Top
Unfortunately no longer available.
4D

Can I use a collect extension? I believe mine is a 1/4 inch shank.

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[genaccmiller]

Why not just buy a set of 4 "pattern router bits". Longest one has 38mm cutting edge. You may still use guide bushings with them but optional since they have bearings.
Try the cheap set first then buy the expensive set.
View attachment 403996

Yes I thought about this but wouldn't this mean I would need to throw away the guide bushings since they would not be necessary with these?

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[genaccmiller]

Can you remove the guide bushing and use a longer bearing guided flush trim cutter (pattern bits) and use the edge you have cut so far to run the bearing against?

I can remove and get a longer pattern but then what do I do with the guide bushings I already have?

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[genaccmiller]

Keep them for the next project? I use guide bushings for most of my projects...


View attachment 404007
. View attachment 404006

Can you help me understand how you use the guide bushings and which scenario? Do you use straight bits?

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[genaccmiller]

Guide bushes are used with templates and jigs. Although commonly used with straight bits, guide-bushes are used with dove-tail bits, slot cutters, keyhole-cutters, V-bits, even plunge-type profile bits etc. all with the appropriate jigs.

On router tables (router mounted upside down) it is more convenient to use bits with bearings at the end rather than guide bushings so that you can see the template better when it is on top.

Yes I understood that but am wondering when you would have a use for guide bushes if you invest in a flush trim pattern bit. Wouldn't it make the guide bushings unnecessary?

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[genaccmiller]

I will still use the guide bushes even if I invest in a pattern bit set.
Here's why
As you plunge, the bearing of the pattern bit may still high up and so the cutting edge could destroy your template.
So you need a pattern bit set. Use the short pattern bit first then change to a longer bit for more depth.
The guide bushing on the other hand will always protect the template from being accidentally cut and damaged.

Ok got it. So basically the bushing helps protect the template. In that case then I think I need longer straight bits.

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[genaccmiller]

Hi @genaccmiller

I use the guide bushing and flush trim bits in different scenarios.

Guide bushings with straight and bowl cutters with templates for bowls etc.
Pattern bits when using straight or other edges or ( as mentioned, in the router table)
I was suggesting using them on the same project, merely as a way for you to trim to the depth you required.

Quick question to check if I have this right. If I use my guide bushing on router table, when the router is upside down, would my template be the surface touching the surface of the table with the piece to be cut on top of the template?

Also can you tell me an easy way to finish staining the piece. Would I apply stain and a finish on top or just a finish and what finish is better to use?

Another question I have is when I am routing is it still better to use a jigsaw to get the workpiece as close to the template as possible before routing or just plunge the router in 1/8 inch increments without choosing to use a jigsaw first?

@reuelt would appreciate your comments as well.

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[genaccmiller]

I am running into the below issue. I made a template out of 1/4 inch MDF. I then attached the double sided tape to a piece of 3/4 inch plywood and attached the template on top of that. I have a fixed base router. When I try to route I am encountering the below issue where the router face plate is not flat on the template because the collar height is blocking the cut of the router bit. Can someone help with this?
View attachment 404030

 

[genaccmiller]

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[genaccmiller]

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[genaccmiller]

Incredibly frustrated. What am I doing wrong?

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[genaccmiller]

" Quick question to check if I have this right. If I use my guide bushing on router table, when the router is upside down, would my template be the surface touching the surface of the table with the piece to be cut on top of the template? "

In this case, the guide bushing would be set into the table plate, not the router base plate.

The router is still under the base plate.

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[genaccmiller]

Yes I have a Ryobi router table but the questions above are related to hand routing. Would I not have that issue if I used the table?

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[genaccmiller]

Now that you posted a photo I may be able to help you..
For one thing you have the wrong bushing in your router as it appears to protrude 1/2" below your router base!! The bushing should be the same highth or a bit less than the thickness of your template.
Second problem, why aren't you simply attach your template to you work piece. If it is to provide clearance for the bushing, See Above...If it's not then find a way to do so...
Hope this helped.

Yes

The issue I am having is the bushing thickness far exceeds the template thickness. What should I do? I did not understand your point about attaching template to workpiece. Isn't that what I did?

Why will using the table not have the same issue if the bushing used is the same?

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[genaccmiller]

If hand held routing, I, personally would not use the router inverted.

I am going back to the beginning of the thread to see if we have wandered of topic….

No not wandered but just asking to see if table routing would be simpler and not have the issues I encountered.

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