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Yes I understood that but am wondering when you would have a use for guide bushes if you invest in a flush trim pattern bit. Wouldn't it make the guide bushings unnecessary?

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I will still use the guide bushes even if I invest in a pattern bit set.
Here's why
As you plunge, the bearing of the pattern bit may still high up and so the cutting edge could destroy your template.
So you need a pattern bit set. Use the short pattern bit first then change to a longer bit for more depth.
The guide bushing on the other hand will always protect the template from being accidentally cut and damaged.
 

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Hi @genaccmiller

I use the guide bushing and flush trim bits in different scenarios.

Guide bushings with straight and bowl cutters with templates for bowls etc.
Pattern bits when using straight or other edges or ( as mentioned, in the router table)
I was suggesting using them on the same project, merely as a way for you to trim to the depth you required.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I will still use the guide bushes even if I invest in a pattern bit set.
Here's why
As you plunge, the bearing of the pattern bit may still high up and so the cutting edge could destroy your template.
So you need a pattern bit set. Use the short pattern bit first then change to a longer bit for more depth.
The guide bushing on the other hand will always protect the template from being accidentally cut and damaged.
Ok got it. So basically the bushing helps protect the template. In that case then I think I need longer straight bits.

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
Hi @genaccmiller

I use the guide bushing and flush trim bits in different scenarios.

Guide bushings with straight and bowl cutters with templates for bowls etc.
Pattern bits when using straight or other edges or ( as mentioned, in the router table)
I was suggesting using them on the same project, merely as a way for you to trim to the depth you required.
Quick question to check if I have this right. If I use my guide bushing on router table, when the router is upside down, would my template be the surface touching the surface of the table with the piece to be cut on top of the template?

Also can you tell me an easy way to finish staining the piece. Would I apply stain and a finish on top or just a finish and what finish is better to use?

Another question I have is when I am routing is it still better to use a jigsaw to get the workpiece as close to the template as possible before routing or just plunge the router in 1/8 inch increments without choosing to use a jigsaw first?

@reuelt would appreciate your comments as well.

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I could but then wouldn't I need to remove the double sided tape and attach again and what if things are not aligned?

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Can't you flip the piece and use the routed side as a template, instead of moving the template? That'll guarantee alignment.

Also, longer bits (with longer "cutting length") are dangerous and unstable, even in the best of routers. One problem is the vibrations at the tip of the bit - no bit has perfect balance at manufacturing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
I am running into the below issue. I made a template out of 1/4 inch MDF. I then attached the double sided tape to a piece of 3/4 inch plywood and attached the template on top of that. I have a fixed base router. When I try to route I am encountering the below issue where the router face plate is not flat on the template because the collar height is blocking the cut of the router bit. Can someone help with this?
View attachment 404030
 

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You can purchase a longer bit. I took a quick look at the MLCS catalog and they have a straight bit with a .5" shank that is 1.25" long. I'm just a hobby woodworker and don't have a lot of router experience but it seems like lot of material you trying to remove. I think I get a longer bit and try doing it in a couple of passes. I'm sure someone with have a better plan.
I believe the OPs Ryobi has a 1/4" collet. At least all that I've seen. As for a 11/2" bit w/1/4" Shank is asking for problems. These are not sturdy routers to begin with. I've had one for years. I don't use it as much as my smaller routers.
 

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I am using guide bushings on my Ryobi router with a straight bit and not a flush trim bit. I find that the thickness of wood I can do is 0.75 inches since the cutting length on my router bits are 0.75 inches. Even at 1/8 inch per pass the max material thickness I can route is 3/4 inches. If I try to increase it then the amount of router bit in the collet will be lesser and can cause instability. Ideal I wanted to use template routing on thicker workpieces like a 2x6 for chair legs etc. How do I get around this limitation? Also can someone share some links to how I can use template guide bushings to create curved chain legs or profiles? Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk
Not sure if this will help but I once needed a deeper cut with a guide bushing that I couldn’t achieve so I cut the guide bushing down and it worked great.
 

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" Quick question to check if I have this right. If I use my guide bushing on router table, when the router is upside down, would my template be the surface touching the surface of the table with the piece to be cut on top of the template? "

In this case, the guide bushing would be set into the table plate, not the router base plate.




 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
" Quick question to check if I have this right. If I use my guide bushing on router table, when the router is upside down, would my template be the surface touching the surface of the table with the piece to be cut on top of the template? "

In this case, the guide bushing would be set into the table plate, not the router base plate.




The router is still under the base plate.

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Do,you have rtouter table with a plate?

Most generic table plates will take a PC style guide bush.

This example is my Oak Park table with my Triton router attached...

Wood Road surface Asphalt Circle Flooring



Wood Automotive tire Hat Gas Machine

Wood Button Denim Circle Pattern
 

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If hand held routing, I, personally would not use the router inverted.

I am going back to the beginning of the thread to see if we have wandered of topic….
 

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I am running into the below issue. I made a template out of 1/4 inch MDF. I then attached the double sided tape to a piece of 3/4 inch plywood and attached the template on top of that. I have a fixed base router. When I try to route I am encountering the below issue where the router face plate is not flat on the template because the offset piece is blocking the cut of the router bit. Can someone help with this? Should the guide of the guide bushing be smaller or larger than the router bit?
View attachment 404021 View attachment 404022 View attachment 404023
Now that you posted a photo I may be able to help you..
For one thing you have the wrong bushing in your router as it appears to protrude 1/2" below your router base!! The bushing should be the same highth or a bit less than the thickness of your template.
Second problem, why aren't you simply attach your template to you work piece. If it is to provide clearance for the bushing, See Above...If it's not then find a way to do so...
Hope this helped.
Yes I have a Ryobi router table but the questions above are related to hand routing. Would I not have that issue if I used the table?

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Yes
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Now that you posted a photo I may be able to help you..
For one thing you have the wrong bushing in your router as it appears to protrude 1/2" below your router base!! The bushing should be the same highth or a bit less than the thickness of your template.
Second problem, why aren't you simply attach your template to you work piece. If it is to provide clearance for the bushing, See Above...If it's not then find a way to do so...
Hope this helped.

Yes
The issue I am having is the bushing thickness far exceeds the template thickness. What should I do? I did not understand your point about attaching template to workpiece. Isn't that what I did?

Why will using the table not have the same issue if the bushing used is the same?

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