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My router table comes with the below green colored discs in multiple sizes. Even if I put a bushing in it I don't have space at the bottom to put the other side of the bushing to hold it.
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Template guide bushing advise needed
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Throw your guide bushing away if you want to. Most people would store them just in case they run into a situation where a guide bushing would be the best solution for the task at hand. But if your storage space is that limited, by all means just throw them away.
A router is a very versatile tool. It can be configured in many ways to accomplish a desired end product. BUT, it has limitations. A router is not a do everything tool.
Just because you might not realize a use for your guide bushings now, as you gain more knowledge of how to use a router, you may at some point figure out exactly how a guide bushing might be the perfect solution for a particular project.
If you are determined to use a router, the best solution I have seen so far, and it is the first thought I had, utilizes both guide bushings and a bottom bearing flush trim bit. Separately of course. Not during the same operation.
Use your guide bushing to cut as deep as you can using multiple passes. Then remove your guide bushing and pattern template. Insert a bottom bearing flush trim bit that is long enough to span the remaining thickness. Flip your piece over and use the edge that you just routed out as the pattern that the flush trim bit's bearing will ride on.
Also, on relatively narrow stock I would recommend using a router table rather than trying to hold the router by hand.
My thinking is that a router might not be the best tool to use to work on 2" x 6" material. Sounds like you need to invest in, or borrow, a band saw to rough cut the material close to the final dimension. Then use another tool, like a spindle sander, to bring the surface to its desired dimension. What you are attempting does not sound like the kind of thing a router should be used for or was designed for.
Yes they make longer bits, but extremely long bits on a router is not a safe thing. If you do go to a longer bit, please use a 1/2" shank and collet. Take it from someone that has had more than one 1/4 shank bit snap off in the middle of a cut. The amount of heat from friction and torque that a router bit undergoes is tremendous and weakens it over time. Be sure to wear your safety goggles. A router is a very dangerous tool.
Also with longer bits, you may experience more end play at the tip of the router bit giving less than desirable results. Probably can be addressed with sanding.
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Thanks for the detailed response. I have a follow up question. Of course I won't throw the guide bushings away since I already spent money on them. I was just wondering how to use them in my case. My question is specifically related to the comment above.
The issue I have with starting off with my bushing as the picture shows is the shoulder of the bushing is thicker than my template. So is the solution then to increase the thickness of the template so that the shoulder rolls against it? When I flip it over I could certainly use a flush trim bit and do you have any reasonably priced recommendations for a flush trim bit with a 1/4 inch shank and top and bottom bearings? However if I were to invest in a flush trim bit could I just do the full cut with it instead of flipping the workpiece and removing the template midway after removing the bushing?
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The main reason for using guide bushings is for getting precise offset distance between the edge of the pattern template and the edge of the bit's cutting edge.
You can obtain different end results by adjusting the bit diameter for a given guide bushing and by changing the guide bushings for a given bit diameter. Essential for precise inlay work.
Guide bushings are also good when using something other than just a straight bit that does not or cannot have a guide bearing on the bit itself.
There is a whole world of uses for guide bushings. YouTube is your friend on ideas for their use.
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I see. Looks like you need bushings that have a shorter collar They make them that only stick out about 1/4" or less.
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Those yellow inserts are not designed for mounting guide bushings. They are used to adjust the size of the hole in the table top depending on the diameter of the bit being used. If you are using a 14" diameter bit you wouldn't want the hole in the table top to be like 1.5" across.. You would use the smallest hole insert that does not interfere with the bit.
If you want to use guide bushings on your router table, you need to find a insert that fits your table top that will let you install a guide bushing.
You can see from your photo that the wide flange on the guide bushing does not sit flush with the top of your insert and that means it will not sit flush with the top of your table.
I'm not sure that Ryobi makes an insert for your table top that accepts guide bushings. You might can find one online that will fit your table top.
But, as I mention in another comment, those guide bushings don't look like they work well with templates. You need guide bushings that have a collar that sticks out about 1/4" or less. Like maybe 1/8" or 3/16".
If you do not need guide bushings that have a collar that tall, you might can get a machinist to cut them down to a height that will work with your template material.
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Yes that's what I am figuring out that the bushings I have may not be appropriate and thanks to this forum for providing me the knowledge. I have ordered the below flush trim bit.
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