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I used a 1/4 inch bit with a 3/8 od template to trace around my router insert on a piece of 1/4 inch ply to make a template for a new table saw router table I was making. I clamped the ply to the new table and using a 1 inch o.d. template and a 3/8 inch bit routed the 3/8 inch deep/ 3/8 inch wide ledge for the insert in the table. I now have to saw out the center with my sabersaw but decided I wanted a little more meat than a 3/8 inch wide ledge for the insert. I had no template larger than 1 inch o.d. but cut a short section of pvc pipe with a 1 inch i.d. and fastened it to the outside of the brass template with double stick tape. It created an additional 1/8 inch offset giving me a 1/2 inch ledge to play with, some of which I'll lose when I saber saw the center out. This method is not as precise as the brass template as there is some play between the bushing and the pvc but I used it to remove waste from a non critical dimension. Hope this is helpful. Some pics attached.
Mike
 

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Hi Mike

That's a good way :)

Here's one more, the next time you have some spare time find a scrap 1/4" plastic stock in the shop, then get the hole saw set out and cut out some offsets. :)
I use the 3/4" hole saw for all the them so I can use the 3/4" OD brass guide to put them to work.
I start with a 3/4" hole saw but don't cut it all the way, you need the 1/4" hole to make them true after you cut them out, also use the hole saw on both sides that to say filp the stock over and cut it just a bit to keep it from chiping on the last cut, then chuck up the biggest hole saw you have and cut out the offsets work your way down to the 1 1/4" hole saw,once you have all the plastic parts cut out make a small jig to hold them on the belt sander with a 1/4" dowel pin for a center point, clamp the jig to the belt sander to get the new pastic parts true on the outside then take them back to the drill press and cut out the 3/4" hole on all of them, then pull you 3/4" brass guide out and check the fit you will need to sand the inside just a bit but you want a tight fit on the 3/4" brass guide.

You have just made many offsets that you can use with your brass guide to move the bit out from the edge of any templete.
The set I have that as about 14 sizes and all it takes to use them is just slip them on the 3/4" brass guide and go to work, quick and easy way and you can use the 3/8" and the 1/2" carb. bits .

If you want to see a snapshot of what they look like after you make them just ask and I will post one. :)

Bj :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Bob-
Thanks for that. I can envision those bushing adapters, If it's not too much trouble, I'd love to see a photo.
Thanks,
Mike
 

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Hi Mike

Here's snapshot of some of them,see below I have a one more box somewhere in the shop but it's a cold day and I just got the snow blower put away and I'm going inside for the day, SNOW a 4 letter word .

Bj :)
 

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One further thing, next time use your router to make the through cut in your table instead of a jig saw. Plunge part way and make a circuit, plunge deeper and continue until you cut through. You will get a nice clean cut and the material you remove can be used as fences for a drill press or small portable router table with a bit of work.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Bob- Thanks for the photos. They look great; Mike- I haven't yet cut it out; I think I'll try one of Bob's big adapter rings and a long 3/8 inch bit and see if I can do it as you suggested. I was reluctant as I've made the top out of 2 thicknesses of 3/4 inch birch ply for rigidity but I can make a lot of passes. Thanks for the comments; I'll let you know how it turns out- Have to find my hole saw!
Mike
 

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You're Welcome Mike

I know you don't wait any longer to cut it out But I thought you may want to take a look at the bits below, they are the hard ones to find and they are at a great price made for just what you are doing, cutting through 1 1/2" stock or more.
Like you I wanted more meat under the plate and I used the offset rings to do just that. see snapshot below of one of my tables with a 1/2" thick plate.

http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/2532-just-some-shop-snapshots.html


I got some of his bits last week and they are great :) if you buy more than one item he will knock off some of the shipping charge that's to say he will not charge you the full total SC for all the items.
Just a NOTE*** I got my order in 3 days in the mail,ships real fast. :)

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-pc-1-2-SH-3-B...1501655QQihZ003QQcategoryZ50386QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-pc-1-2-SH-2-B...0767003QQihZ003QQcategoryZ50386QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-pc-1-4-SH-3-B...1104553QQihZ003QQcategoryZ50386QQcmdZViewItem

Bj :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Bob-
Thanks for the potential source of bits- I'll give him a try. I had a 3/8 bit with a 1 1/2 inch length but not quite enough. I used the sabersaw and did ok. Now to route dado grooves for the miter track fence holddowns. I used a dado head in the saw for the full length miter track and even though I used masking tape over the formica, I got some edge chipping. Doggone!
Mike
 

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Hi Mike

Sorry to hear that :( but the router can do that job nice and clean,I know it's to late but you may want to try this next time, clamp some boards to the top and plunge and pull the router to you over the top >
Note***cut your clamps boards longer than the table by about 4" on both ends,this will help you start and end the pass true.

I did make a jig that will do this type of job quick and easy and it will be true and the router will NOT jam like it will do sometimes with the 2 clamp boards way,it takes a bit work to make but once you have it you will use it all the time for other jobs. :) the key to this one is the 1" brass guide that is machined part and it lets the chips come out of the slot when you make the pass,it's best to use your vac.pickup on the router base ,this will help keep the slot clean of the chips. see link below ▼

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/2711-dado-jig-plunge-router.html

I just hate dado saw blades they make a mess most of the time on formica, no chip breaker (support) the cut or next to it.

But now that you have your router setup you can make a Zero Clearance plate for your table saw quick and easy with the router table that will help when you cut formica,plywood,MDF,etc. it will help a bit with the chip out. :)

Just take your insert plate out set it on some 1/4" thick MDF or plastic trace around it then take it your band saw and trim the part down just a bit then get some double sided carpet tape out and stick the parts together now pop in a trim router bit with a top bearing on it then pop in a start pin/safety set the bearing so runs on the saw plate then fire up the router and make a true copy of the saw plate ,once your done make 2 or 3 more,you will be glad you did.
Now crank the saw blade down and put the new plate in place with the screws holding it in place then power up the saw and crank the blade up (real slow) to about 5/8" above the new plate, then power down and get your maker out and write the size of dado on it.
Now pop out the new plate and put your standard blade back in and do the same on a new insert plate.




Bj :)
 

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Really cool idea - enough interest for me to manufacture?

I was reading through here and came across this discussion. I have made a few of these myself to give me a diameter that I didn't have but didn't know anybody else was doing it.

I do laser cutting and make templates from time to time and I always have spare 1/4" acrylic. Do you think there would be enough interest for me to start making these for sale? If so, I'd be interested to know what sizes people would like.

Thanks,
David
 

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Hi David

Yes you can make a buck or two making them...just like selling your jig for key holes on eBay..

Many would like to have a Bow tie ( Butterfly ) one with many sizes in the same template..

It's hard to say what would sell the best but here's some links to some of them..

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/router_inlay.html

http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=PAT--

JUst a note**** many don't put holes in them to hold them in place and I don't know why not :)

4 small 3/16" holes that are counter sunk would do the trick for most of them :)


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http://cgi.ebay.com/Slot-Cutting-Ro...20781QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262

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I was reading through here and came across this discussion. I have made a few of these myself to give me a diameter that I didn't have but didn't know anybody else was doing it.

I do laser cutting and make templates from time to time and I always have spare 1/4" acrylic. Do you think there would be enough interest for me to start making these for sale? If so, I'd be interested to know what sizes people would like.

Thanks,
David
 

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I was reading through here and came across this discussion. I have made a few of these myself to give me a diameter that I didn't have but didn't know anybody else was doing it.

I do laser cutting and make templates from time to time and I always have spare 1/4" acrylic. Do you think there would be enough interest for me to start making these for sale? If so, I'd be interested to know what sizes people would like.

Thanks,
David
I may have some custom work for you possibly.

Can you do stuff like this, I provide the plan in the software format you need:

Both the positive and negative image shown here. This was for a South Carolina state flag inlay.
 

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