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Tennons on my router

7068 Views 15 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  template tom
Does anyone have a set up that would help me make tennons on a router table? I'm building a clock case and need to make a number of small tennons in 1"x1" oak and it would be great if they were all the same. I'm being steered to a jig for my table saw but think I would have more control with my router.
Bob
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Bob, once you have done the set up on your router table you should get consistant tenons. Just remember to use a backerboard to prevent tear out.
I used my router to build a jig for my table saw to make either lap joints or tenons. If you use the same setting principles as you would for the router, you get a consistent tenon or lap joint every time.
You can use a bottom cleaning bit (they make some pretty wide ones) for cutting tenons quickly (2 passes instead of 6) on each side. If you are going to be doing a lot of them, it might be something you would like to invest in. A sample is at the site below. Either a sled or a large backer block will keep your tenons square.

http://pricecutter.com/html/catalog/productGroup.asp/487
Tenoning Router Bit

On a couple of Router Workshop episodes, I have seen the Rosendahls use a router tenoning bit which simultaneously removes material at the top and bottom of a piece of stock leaving leaving a tenon. If I remember correctly, the bit was adjustable for different tenon widths. It seemed to me that this method was superior to using a tenoning jig on a table saw. Unfortunatley, I haven't been able to find a bit like this in any of my catalogs and it isn't offered by Oak Park. Does anyone out there know where such a bit can be obtained?
Rockler or Woodcraft both stock tenoning bits. Adjustable tenoning bits are made by Freud & Amana.
Densa said:
Does anyone have a set up that would help me make tennons on a router table? I'm building a clock case and need to make a number of small tennons in 1"x1" oak and it would be great if they were all the same. I'm being steered to a jig for my table saw but think I would have more control with my router.
Bob
Have you considered 'Floating Tenons'?? where the router in the Plunge mode could be used
Tom
Mike:

I have looked in my Rockler and WoodCraft catalogs. I have looked at the Freud and Amana websites. I can't find any tenoning bits, adjustable or otherwise, in any of these sources. Could you give me specifice page numbers or model numbers.

Thanks,

Joe
Joe, I viewed the Amana adjustable bit in an ad in The Woodworkers Journal. I believe the Freud bit was in Popular Woodworking, and I am pretty sure I saw it at the Performance line tool store in Warren, MI. http://www.performancelinetool.com/
These are relatively new bits.
Are you speaking of an adjustable rabbeting bit ?. By the way I live in Mi. also.

regards
jerry
Hi Bob, try Woodline USA at the below web page, it is for a tongue and groove cutter, $32.00. It may help or maybe not.

http://www.woodline.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=558

Good luck with your clock
I use my table router to make tenons. 2 passes of infinite adjustment for size using either a 1/4 or 1/2 inch spiral or straight bit. I can even hold the piece upright and nip off the ends to make it a hidden tenon. For making the matching mortice I set the hight and distance using a fence. I place the mortice exactly by penciling a start and stop line accross the upside of the piece. I then focus my laser (cieling mounted) directly on the bit and it marks the top of the piece for start and stop. It is precise and exact. I also use the laser for making initials in pieces. It is a great device.
I've found that any kind of tennon on a router table is very dependant on the thickness of the stock and how straight it is. This applies not only to small tennons such as in a face frame but even more to tennons in carcase constructions that may be as long as a shelf is wide.

For this I use a Woodrat instead of the table. The tennons are dead accurate and repeatable. Haunches are very easy to add (or leave wood behind for <grin>) and though I usually stick to about 1 inch long, 2 inches are an easy possibility. In the long shelf-end tennons, slight curvature to the board does not affect producing a straight tennon and not affected by board thickness.

...Doug
I have not tried this, but here is a link to a tenoning jig for the router. It looks simple enough. http://www.dewalt.com/us/articles/article.asp?ID=244 ;)
dlane6110 said:
I have not tried this, but here is a link to a tenoning jig for the router. It looks simple enough. http://www.dewalt.com/us/articles/article.asp?ID=244 ;)
I have been producing tenons with the router and all that is required is a simple Jig that can be made from scrap material in your workshop for a couple of dollars. It is a 'Floating Tenon' System that produces the mortices in the rail as well as in the style and each joint is perfect
Tom
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