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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've seen lots of tenoning jigs for good size table saws, but only have a ryobi BTS10S, which is very small and does not use "standard" mitre slots.
I did make up a cross cut sled for it which works well, but now I need to cut frames to make cabinet doors and draw fronts.
The tenons are 2 1/4" long 1/4" wide in Oak.
The fence that comes with it is not going to be of help, it's not square to the bed and can't be adjusted.
So I was looking at tenoning sleds, but all the plans I've seen are for full size saws.
Does anyone, or has anyone got or seen something for the more Sq inch debilitated amongst us :)
 

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Hi David

The easy way is to pickup the jig from Grizzly and make your own track part for it so you can use it on your saw...

Or you can make your own, easy from sq.1,they are easy to make.. :)


Tenoning Jig
http://grizzly.com/products/Tenoning-Jig/H7583
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vapochilled said:
I've seen lots of tenoning jigs for good size table saws, but only have a ryobi BTS10S, which is very small and does not use "standard" mitre slots.
I did make up a cross cut sled for it which works well, but now I need to cut frames to make cabinet doors and draw fronts.
The tenons are 2 1/4" long 1/4" wide in Oak.
The fence that comes with it is not going to be of help, it's not square to the bed and can't be adjusted.
So I was looking at tenoning sleds, but all the plans I've seen are for full size saws.
Does anyone, or has anyone got or seen something for the more Sq inch debilitated amongst us :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Tempting to buy one, but I'm not sure it will get used enough right now.
I suppose I could lay the stock flat on the router table and and "nibble" the material away from each side. Then it would just leave the slots to cut.
I have an 8" dado set, just need to hold and move the stock.

Hmmm, thinking cap on time!
 

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Hi David

Without the jig it can be tricky on the table saw,,,
You can make a sled to fit over the saw fence but it must be dead on...

The Router table will do it, but it can be tricky to get it right on,,
if you have a coping sled it will come out true...using slot cutters..

To put the slot in , that's a easy one to do, make a new base plate for your plunge router and put a bearings/pins in the base..

If you want to see the jig for that one just ask and I will post it..

pictures below

http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/jigs-fixtures/9977-mortising-jig-mortise-base-plate-.jpg
http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/jigs-fixtures/9986-mortising-jig-8039.jpg

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/2641-mortise-tenon-jig-plunge-router.html

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vapochilled said:
Tempting to buy one, but I'm not sure it will get used enough right now.
I suppose I could lay the stock flat on the router table and and "nibble" the material away from each side. Then it would just leave the slots to cut.
I have an 8" dado set, just need to hold and move the stock.

Hmmm, thinking cap on time!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm terribly new at panels and frames, but I can't see how I can use the to form the frame joints?
cope and stick router bits would be the best, but they are not cheap, certainly more than that grizzly tenoning jig I'd guess.

God forbid that I have to send the tenon saw away for sharpening and do this by
h h h h hand :)
 

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Hi David

Well if that's what you are doing the R & S sets are cheap and they do make joints quick and easy and they hold very well.. :)


http://cgi.ebay.com/2pc-1-2-SH-Quar...7605786QQihZ003QQcategoryZ50386QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/3pc-15-Panel-w-...7347110QQihZ003QQcategoryZ50386QQcmdZViewItem


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vapochilled said:
I'm terribly new at panels and frames, but I can't see how I can use the to form the frame joints?
cope and stick router bits would be the best, but they are not cheap, certainly more than that grizzly tenoning jig I'd guess.

God forbid that I have to send the tenon saw away for sharpening and do this by
h h h h hand :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Right, they would be great for the internal cuts, but what about the frame joints, thats what I'm after.
I think it's called a sliding tenon? (open at one end) I could mitre it, but thats not what "she who must be obeyed" wants lol
 

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Hi David

" frame joints " the R & S set will make all the joints for the frame..

" sliding tenon? " = ???

What are you making ???

If you want to make a sliding tenon joint you may want to use the T & G bit set,they come with shims so you open the joint up just a bit so it can slide..but still have the edges to keep it running true..

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-pc-1-4-Shank-...8467154QQihZ003QQcategoryZ50386QQcmdZViewItem

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vapochilled said:
Right, they would be great for the internal cuts, but what about the frame joints, thats what I'm after.
I think it's called a sliding tenon? (open at one end) I could mitre it, but thats not what "she who must be obeyed" wants lol
 

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Looks to me like you could do the tenon with your router and the "mortise" with a saw and chisel. Those are big joints. You could even bandsaw the mortise since it's open ended or use a nice Japanese pull saw (c'mon... you know you want one) and then refine it with a sharp chisel. I think you'll spend more time trying to figure out how to do this with power tools than it would take you to just go ahead and dive in with hand tools :)
 

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Hi David

Now I got it,,, picture worth 1000 words.. :)

Sometimes called a sex joint/slip joint,, the quick a easy way for this one is the band saw.

Just setup your fence on the band saw, make one pass filp the stock over and make the 2nd pass..then just out the center part or the side parts and your done.
Or you can get your hand rip saw out and do it quick and easy..the Roy Underhill way.. :) think back when you made your book stand out of one board... :)

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vapochilled said:
this is the type of joint I'm doing, material is 2 1/4" so the router bit set won't work, it has to be either routed flat, or done with a tenoning jig I think
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
reikimaster said:
Looks to me like you could do the tenon with your router and the "mortise" with a saw and chisel. Those are big joints. You could even bandsaw the mortise since it's open ended or use a nice Japanese pull saw (c'mon... you know you want one) and then refine it with a sharp chisel. I think you'll spend more time trying to figure out how to do this with power tools than it would take you to just go ahead and dive in with hand tools :)

5 draw fronts and 3 cabinets doors, electrickery is the future baby :)
Seriously, doing them by hand will be a real chore, I'm not that good,lol
I have though of a way though, use the T&G router set, but also groove the outside and top edge, then just pop in a 1/4 sq inlay?
It would give the impression of being a corner M&T joint, without the hard work :sold:
 
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