The correct drop leaf router bit set
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I think and someone correct me if I'm wrong but you can make your own set for almost any thickness material by combining matching cove and roundover bits.Doverwood said:
I don't recall seeing any bit sets for 1" material so I can't help you there, but if you want to try and get a set to work you also might have to pick out the hinges and how they will mount. I can try and help if you like but it might be better to have someone who has already done this to advise you. Let me know.
Ed
To get the right support you need a coving bit and a roundover bit, both with the same radius.
Rounding over bit on the main table with the coving bit on the drop leaf.
This will provide support along the whole table length.
The actual radius is not so important.
Just make sure that both bits are the same radius.
Take a little off with each pass until the 2 sides are level when joined together.
Using drop leaf hinges correctly fitted completes the job.
Rounding over bit on the main table with the coving bit on the drop leaf.
This will provide support along the whole table length.
The actual radius is not so important.
Just make sure that both bits are the same radius.
Take a little off with each pass until the 2 sides are level when joined together.
Using drop leaf hinges correctly fitted completes the job.
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768 Posts
Just tried putting 3/4" roundover and cove for the drop leaf table on a 1" top thickness. When cutting the cove we need to set the fence distance to match the bearing and then raise the router bit in about three different exposures of the cove then cut. The height measurements are raised in small cuts until they match the round over cut.
Steps to doing the cuts are as follows:
1) Make sure the table and leaf sections are exactly the same thickness see photo roundmaterial.jpg
2) Set up the roundover bit to have approx. 1/8" of the profile line exposed. Cut the roundover on a scrap piece and the main table, see photo roundoversetup.jpg and roundovercut.jpg
3) Set up the cove bit to match the roundover cut on the main table. See photo roundovermargin.jpg, roundcovesetup.jpg and roundcovesetup1.jpg
4) If the cove needs to be cut in smaller cuts you can raise the cove into 1/4 position and cut then raise and put into 1/2 position then cut etc. Remember you can always take another cut but you can't add material back on...SO be sure to be careful to get the pieces to match. See roundfinishcut.jpg
That's how we do it.
Steps to doing the cuts are as follows:
1) Make sure the table and leaf sections are exactly the same thickness see photo roundmaterial.jpg
2) Set up the roundover bit to have approx. 1/8" of the profile line exposed. Cut the roundover on a scrap piece and the main table, see photo roundoversetup.jpg and roundovercut.jpg
3) Set up the cove bit to match the roundover cut on the main table. See photo roundovermargin.jpg, roundcovesetup.jpg and roundcovesetup1.jpg
4) If the cove needs to be cut in smaller cuts you can raise the cove into 1/4 position and cut then raise and put into 1/2 position then cut etc. Remember you can always take another cut but you can't add material back on...SO be sure to be careful to get the pieces to match. See roundfinishcut.jpg
That's how we do it.
Attachments
Can we go a step further on this subject?
I took a few minutes to draw the instructions as you gave them then added hinges. Please see attached 1 and 2. (1 looks OK, 2 looks like it has problems)
Since the pivot point moves depending on the location of the hinge how do you adjust the cuts to be able to get a correct rule joint, that being; fitting when up, hiding the “space” when down and not a 1/8” gap in the horizontal direction?
I have done “one” of these joints before (a number of years ago) (on a shaper, I have a matched set of cutters) but followed the directions that came with the hinges and never did understand what I did.
Maybe a full-fledged tip one day soon would help me out?????
Ed
I took a few minutes to draw the instructions as you gave them then added hinges. Please see attached 1 and 2. (1 looks OK, 2 looks like it has problems)
Since the pivot point moves depending on the location of the hinge how do you adjust the cuts to be able to get a correct rule joint, that being; fitting when up, hiding the “space” when down and not a 1/8” gap in the horizontal direction?
I have done “one” of these joints before (a number of years ago) (on a shaper, I have a matched set of cutters) but followed the directions that came with the hinges and never did understand what I did.
Maybe a full-fledged tip one day soon would help me out?????
Ed
Attachments
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768 Posts
I have limited knowledge on the installation of the rule joint hardware so maybe we can feature this tip on the email blast and get a good discussion going. The email is going out on Thursday.
The best help I've ever received!
I've got to tell you I am thoroughly blown away by your helpful response. Complete with JPGs!!!!! The only thing you could do better is to fly to Massachusetts and do the routing for me.
THANKS AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I've got to tell you I am thoroughly blown away by your helpful response. Complete with JPGs!!!!! The only thing you could do better is to fly to Massachusetts and do the routing for me.
THANKS AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
BobandRick said:
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768 Posts
We're not done yet, you still have to see if your hardware is going to work.
Ed has given a drawing of the hardware position and its my understanding that the hinge knuckle needs to be postioned at the same place as the center point of the 3/4" radius. If so is the length of hinge leaf going to work with the 3/4" radius. You need to get your hardware first and paractice with some scrap before cutting the table top material.
Ed has given a drawing of the hardware position and its my understanding that the hinge knuckle needs to be postioned at the same place as the center point of the 3/4" radius. If so is the length of hinge leaf going to work with the 3/4" radius. You need to get your hardware first and paractice with some scrap before cutting the table top material.
OK,
I have found some hardware for drop leaf tables at:
www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&offerings_id=774
They have some pdf information that I will review and see if I can make my drawings match the hinge information they give and see what happens. Sorry I don't have the time right now to do it but maybe in a day or two......unless someone else wants to chime in with some new input.
Ed
I have found some hardware for drop leaf tables at:
www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&offerings_id=774
They have some pdf information that I will review and see if I can make my drawings match the hinge information they give and see what happens. Sorry I don't have the time right now to do it but maybe in a day or two......unless someone else wants to chime in with some new input.
Ed
OK I did the sketches and they are first with 3/4" stock and 1/2" roundover done per the hardware listed above (attachment 1). The joint looks like I think it should. Then I went to 1" stock and used the 3/4" roundover done again per the hardware listed above attachment 2). This joint also looks good.reible said:
Please look at the hardware (the one that pertains to your hinges) before making the joints, you will have to make a couple of changes to what has been shown before to get the joint correct. If you find another sourse for the hardware please let us all know, I'd like to see how some other company might do it.
The worse part is I think I understand how this works now but can't route a joint to try and see how it would come out. No cove bit that big......
Ed
Attachments
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768 Posts
I have done the 3/4" cove and roundover bit to see the joint, it works. And now we have the hardware problem fixed as well, great job Ed.
As follow up Ed, can I use your hardware drawings to put the information in a router tip to be posted on the email tips.
As follow up Ed, can I use your hardware drawings to put the information in a router tip to be posted on the email tips.
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