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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello again folks,

I thought that I might start a new thread as my original one regarding this used table saw was getting a little long. A short recap. Used Delta 36-320C. Original asking price $150. My offer of $100 was accepted (sight unseen). So, here is how my adventure went:

1) Agreed to meet with the seller yesterday morning.
2) Made it clear from the outset that I may or may not purchase the saw depending on it's condition. No hard feelings!
3) After chatting it up with the gentlemen for a while it was time to get down to business.
4) Before I ever got around to powering up the saw I began tinkering with the fence. See video for how it moved around and did not lock into place properly.
5) Went no further. Told him I would pass. His response: "How about I make you a deal?" I will give it to you free of charge, otherwise I am putting it out on the curb.
6) Really ??? Decision, decisions, decisions!
7) Alright then. He helped me load it up into the SUV and off I went. Yes, yes. I know that I should have had him plug it in before leaving.
8) To say that I am a risk taker would be an understatement.
9) Set it up this morning with my son-in-law. A little house keeping and we proceeded to fasten the top to the stand and we were off to the races.
10) Checked for any blade wobble, ran the cranks all the way to full position and back...smooth,
10) Ripped a short 4" piece of MDF right down the middle. Smooth and clean. Only wish there was a splitter installed though. Considering a custom insert plate with MicroJig system for peace of mind.

Here is a short video of the fence movement

https://imgur.com/vtN2TpK
 

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Discussion Starter #2
If the moderator(s) of this site feel that the posting of multiple pics is taxing on the forums database, I would gladly provide links to an external media hosting source instead. Thank you
 

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If the moderator(s) of this site feel that the posting of multiple pics is taxing on the forums database, I would gladly provide links to an external media hosting source instead. Thank you
You're good on that end, Peter. Post all you want. We actually prefer uploading them here as opposed to links to offsite hosting.

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David
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The tips are much appreciated David. Have a wonderful Sunday.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That looks like a good solid saw. One suggestion though is that since it appears to be a direct drive saw, if there is any indication that the bearings in the motor might be going bad then stop right away and replace them. That motor might be difficult to replace and trying to run it with bearings dragging could cause it to burnout the windings in the motor. Bearings are easy to fix. Windings not so much. I'm curious what the board attached to the fence is for?
Thanks Chuck. I agree. It does appear to be direct drive. I wonder why a drive belt appears on the Toolparts list. Now, I have to figure out how to solidify the fence.

226 34-674 DRIVE BELT/34-670
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Maybe it was the angle of the camera. Can you look in and see motor and arbor separate and joined by belts?

I had purchased an aftermarket fence for my old Sears back up saw so when I gave the Sears to my in-laws after I bought my Rockwell off a friend and I switched it's fence for the after market one. The Rockwell fence seemed okay but my aftermarket one was better. It was made in Ontario and I think it still is and it's cheaper than most after market fences. It's sold under the name Accusquare now. It was Mule back when I bought it. I've been very happy with it. If you feel you need to switch yours out it's a consideration. I've also seen Vega recommended.
Thank you for that valuable information Chuck. Much appreciated.
 

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I'm curious what the board attached to the fence is for?

I did the same for my Darra James, initially...for me, it keeps the metal fence off the top...slides better, aligns better, wipes sawdust better. I have a very similar fence that has the same adjustments. Once I started using a short fence, I didn't need it anymore as the short fence did the same thing...keep the metal off the iron...

Of course, the previous owner could have had a different reason...
 

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It looks like a right tilt...just be careful when making bevel cuts...you don't want to jam the inside piece between blade and fence...
 
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Discussion Starter #9
I did the same for my Darra James, initially...for me, it keeps the metal fence off the top...slides better, aligns better, wipes sawdust better. I have a very similar fence that has the same adjustments. Once I started using a short fence, I didn't need it anymore as the short fence did the same thing...keep the metal off the iron...

Of course, the previous owner could have had a different reason...
Hello Nick. Take a look at the first picture that I posted. When I asked what the wooden contraption was all about he said that he wasn't using the saw very much so it sort of doubled as a small workbench. I imagine that the piece of wood attached to the metal fence was used as a stopper of sorts. Short fence? You lost me there. Sorry!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It looks like a right tilt...just be careful when making bevel cuts...you don't want to jam the inside piece between blade and fence...
Yes it is a right tilt.
 

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I can't help with the saw, being in Australia, I can help by letting you know that you can use Windows Photo Viewer to rotate photos in whatever folder they are in, turn them clockwise, anticlockwise, upside down, whatever you want and then close them and they will stay in the new attitude. Takes a second to do. N
 

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Hello Nick. Take a look at the first picture that I posted. When I asked what the wooden contraption was all about he said that he wasn't using the saw very much so it sort of doubled as a small workbench. I imagine that the piece of wood attached to the metal fence was used as a stopper of sorts. Short fence? You lost me there. Sorry!

I should have been more clear...

A short fence is literally a short fence...a piece of wood attached to the rip fence that only goes as far as the cutting edge of the blade. At that point, the blade and fence have done their job. Once the piece has gone beyond the cutting edge of the blade no further aligning can be done. Misalignment, however, can happen when the fence is "toed-in"... The short fence need only be as long as it comfortably can align the workpiece going into the blade. My short fence is made of 3/4" and is as tall as the original fence and goes all the way back to the release.

My old Darra James doesn't have the usual safety devices (guard, splitters, riving knife) so the short fence allows plenty of space between the blade and the fence AFTER the saw teeth have done their job.

I won't be home til tomorrow so I'll snap a picture then...
 
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After looking at your video about the fence... My thoughts are it appears to be a cam action type locking device, where pushing down on the handle should lock the fence. It appears to me the handle or complete cam lever assembly is upside down. the tell tale is the plastic handle on the locking lever seems to be upside down. There may be something missing between the cam locking lever and the rail...and the previous owner flipped the cam lock over to try to get it working again.
 

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I may be wrong but I suspect there will be adjustments you can make to the fence but if all else fails look at replacing the fence with a third party fence. Isn't that hard and considering the price you paid it isn't like you'll be over investing. That said check everything else as advised before putting anything into the saw. If the motor is going bad, bearings are not so good you'll end up with a bigger investment then you thought. Winding can be checked by electrical resistance measurements but you'll need to find a shop like a generator rebuild shop to get that and I'm guessing the specs on that motor. I'd call around to motor rebuild shops and see what they advise. If the motor checks out I'd look into the fence and see if there are adjustments to make it secure and square. Then move on to cleaning to cast table and other metal parts followed by a good waxing of those surfaces. Keep in mind that the HP of the motor may be a limiting factor of what and how fast you can cut.

Years ago I had an inexpensive Craftsman direct drive table saw that I couldn't stand. It was way under powered and I took it back within the 1st week. So test when it's in safe condition and see if it's capable of your expectations before going too far.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thank you all. As always, you have been so very helpful. Much appreciated. Peter
 

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I have a fence in good condition that appears to be the same as the one on your saw, but it came from a Delta 34-444 Contractor's saw. I don't have the rails, only the fence. It is yours for the cost of shipping, if you want it. I ended up with it after combining two 34-444 saws to make one good one. This fence is in my way so the price is right, FREE except for shipping. If you want it, send me a PM with your phone # and address. I'll get a shipping cost and we'll go from there.

Charley
 

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I have a fence in good condition that appears to be the same as the one on your saw, but it came from a Delta 34-444 Contractor's saw. I don't have the rails, only the fence. It is yours for the cost of shipping, if you want it. I ended up with it after combining two 34-444 saws to make one good one. This fence is in my way so the price is right, FREE except for shipping. If you want it, send me a PM with your phone # and address. I'll get a shipping cost and we'll go from there.

Charley
Hello Charley. Perhaps, the pics that I have attached can shed some light on exactly what model fence that came with this particular model.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
After looking at your video about the fence... My thoughts are it appears to be a cam action type locking device, where pushing down on the handle should lock the fence. It appears to me the handle or complete cam lever assembly is upside down. the tell tale is the plastic handle on the locking lever seems to be upside down. There may be something missing between the cam locking lever and the rail...and the previous owner flipped the cam lock over to try to get it working again.
You are absolutely right about both the fence being a cam action locking type and the fact that it was installed upside down for reasons that are beyond my comprehension!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I have a question about the ruler that runs along the fence track (for lack of a better term) If I line up the fence at "0" inches look at how far the fence is from the blade. Am I missing something. Has the fence guide been improperly installed as well.
 

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Peter just be careful, going by your last photo under the saw it appears you have no arbor washer on the outside of the blade. This is bad since the nut can crack the blade when done up with out the face arbor to spread the load
 
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