Art - the Router Workshop boys used this table for years and had no issues. When I made mine, I moved the plate closer to the center of the table. I don't have a miter slot in the table as I've never needed one. If you use a slot, then you have to make sure your guide is perpendicular to the cutter. That's not necessary. When I set my fence I'm not concerned that it is exactly square - I just set it where I need it. Since the bit is spinning, it doesn't matter if the fence is square. My fence has adjustable faces, with a groove for feather boards.
In case you wanted to see the table in real life - this is the one I built - nothing fancy but it just works
I understand but over the years I have come to appreciate my 4 x 2 foot table every time I am doing something even slightly large. I seldom use a router freehand and a table this size does it all for me. When I'm doing a 9 foot piece of molding is never drops or twists. To me, it's the same as trying to use a planer on a long board without supporting the outfeed. It doesn't take any more effort to build it longer so why not do it. As for the miter slot I use it all the time for feather boards as well a miter gauge when doing rail and stiles to keep the cut square. There is no way I would build a router table that couldn't hold feather boards on the fence and table.
Art - I get what you're saying and that works for you. I just never found the need for a miter slot on the table. I use a push block when doing rail and style.
Vince, I get your point regarding the type of work shown in the Sommerfeld video, but how do you deal with longish thin stock? That is where I have been using horizontal (table T-slot) and vertical ( fence T-slot) mounted feather boards, but I am interested in better ways to do it. Thanks.
Charles, pardon my ignorance. What is the advantage of the right angle arm over the push block for cope and stick, and when would you choose it over the push block? I made a T-slot coping sled years ago, but found it more trouble than it was worth.
Thanks, Vince. Do you use more than one push block on a longish piece,I.e. near the front and at the back? That is when I find the horizontal feather boards useful.
That's the whole point of having miter and t slots. Without feather boards you're making your life a lot more complicated and dangerous. It's so simple to adjust the feather board to keep the wood snug against the fence. It also allows you to keep both hands on the stock as you feed it through. The ability to use a miter gauge is a bonus but not the most important thing. I learned the importance of feather boards over 50 years ago when I ruined a piece of antique wood that was essential. The project couldn't be completed for the lack of one stinking piece of molding. I too am always interested in new and better ways of doing things. But the keyword is better. If someone wants to spend a few bucks to eliminate the featherboards then there is always the JessEm clear cut guides. But for those of you out there just starting out at least use featherboards . Or not it's up to you.
