There's gotta be a better way!
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31,264 Posts
inch wide by 1.5 ~ 2'' thick strips laid tightly in the drawer...
no holes to drill or crosses to cut... just put the bits in between the strips...
infinite spacing is one fell swoop...
Use closed cell sponge foam rubber (like Rubber Plumbing Pipe Insulation) in ¾''± wide by 1½ ~ 2'' thick strips STOOD ON EDGE and laid tightly together a drawer...
mastic (like PL-300) in the strips in if you wish..
no holes to drill or crosses to cut... just put the bits in between the strips...
infinite spacing is one fell swoop...
Kill two birds with one stone.
First is a spacing issue. It always seems that the uniform holes are either too close or too far apart, which eats up the space.
Second, is using a "hard" holder (wood, MDF, etc). The holes always seem to be too loose or too tight as use, temperature and humidity grows and shrinks the holes.
You get the best in flexibility with infinite spacing and self adjustable tension on the bit shafts.
I rescued the cut off scraps from a foam rubber seller... (dumpster dove)
can't argue that price...
no holes to drill or crosses to cut... just put the bits in between the strips...
infinite spacing is one fell swoop...
Use closed cell sponge foam rubber (like Rubber Plumbing Pipe Insulation) in ¾''± wide by 1½ ~ 2'' thick strips STOOD ON EDGE and laid tightly together a drawer...
mastic (like PL-300) in the strips in if you wish..
no holes to drill or crosses to cut... just put the bits in between the strips...
infinite spacing is one fell swoop...
Kill two birds with one stone.
First is a spacing issue. It always seems that the uniform holes are either too close or too far apart, which eats up the space.
Second, is using a "hard" holder (wood, MDF, etc). The holes always seem to be too loose or too tight as use, temperature and humidity grows and shrinks the holes.
You get the best in flexibility with infinite spacing and self adjustable tension on the bit shafts.
I rescued the cut off scraps from a foam rubber seller... (dumpster dove)
can't argue that price...
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21,679 Posts
Good question. I keep mine in the original cases for the most part. This is because I want the picture that shows the cut it makes. For some reason I find it hard to look a complex shapes and imagine how the profile will look later. Just don't use some of them enough to ID them at a glance. I keep mine in plastic trays with lids. It's dry here so condensation isn't a problem.
I have three Sommerfeld bit sets I keep in their nifty wood cases so I know the sequence for using them. I would hate to get those mixed up. I have a ogee door set, a Shaker set and a glass door set. Wonderful bits, btw, with matched length shanks so you set the first and the rest automatically line up properly. Freud makes similar matched sets as well.
The tubs are not as compact as what you're seeking, but it really works for me. I do keep the 1/4 and 1/2 inch shanks in separate bins. All of this sits on shelving beside the router table with the contents of each bin showing with a marker.
I've given some thought to clipping the profile drawing and putting them on a tray similar to what you're using, next to each bit, but I just don't use most of the unusual and sets often enough to bother.
I have three Sommerfeld bit sets I keep in their nifty wood cases so I know the sequence for using them. I would hate to get those mixed up. I have a ogee door set, a Shaker set and a glass door set. Wonderful bits, btw, with matched length shanks so you set the first and the rest automatically line up properly. Freud makes similar matched sets as well.
The tubs are not as compact as what you're seeking, but it really works for me. I do keep the 1/4 and 1/2 inch shanks in separate bins. All of this sits on shelving beside the router table with the contents of each bin showing with a marker.
I've given some thought to clipping the profile drawing and putting them on a tray similar to what you're using, next to each bit, but I just don't use most of the unusual and sets often enough to bother.
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16,385 Posts
My solution is in post #5 in this thread: https://www.routerforums.com/general-routing/126426-router-bit-organization-storage.html I'm quite happy with it.
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4,380 Posts
If you want to get fancy.
Mine reside in a drawer, and are labeled to make it easier to grab the correct one when you need it. I learned the hard way that when you're in a hurry, those pesky 90º v-bits can look a lot like a 60º v-bit, and can create some unusual looking results.
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2,042 Posts
Mine are in the drawers of the router table, standing in holes drilled for the shank size. The biggest problem are the big cutter like the rail and stile bits as well as the door raised panel cutters, those take a bit of room. Any that have additional bearing, spacers and such stay in their box. Any and all paperwork is filed away just in case it's needed later.
It took me a sec, but then I realized you have independent squares so they can be resorted . Amazing fellow you are
My work goes from job to shop so I like to keep mine in Plano boxes and in the router bag. To quickly locate, I have one box for straight bits only and another for profiles, which is about to be divided into two more, one for simple profiles (round over and cove) and another for the rest.
My large raised panel bits I leave in their original box and those are in a tool box for portability with other accessories.
My large raised panel bits I leave in their original box and those are in a tool box for portability with other accessories.
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8,956 Posts
Get a router for each bit, then just grab and go,
Just saying,
Herb
Just saying,
Herb
I think Sticks been doing that for years
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