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There's Something Rotten...

4.4K views 22 replies 6 participants last post by  Dejure  
#1 ·
Finally getting around to finishing that item I mentioned earlier (Hijacks 'R Us)
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Beltsanded the rest of the rail caps...100 grit belt...down to (mostly) bare wood. All the caps were stripped, cleaned up, and ready for finishing, in 45 min. About 25Lin.' top face only.
-applied 2 coats of liquid acrylic, consistency of milk. Bought two gallons back in 1998 and its still as good as the day I got it.
-filled a lot of very fine surface cracks with Epoxy autobody glazing.
-lightly sanded and cleaned ready for topcoating
-applied 2 coats of Sharkskin solid colour 'stain' over the acrylic.

Here's my thinking. ANY defect in the membrane allows moisture in. That's how the rot gets started; like a hothouse under the membrane. I'm tired of following the manufacturers' instructions. Frankly, they haven't got a clue about conditions in the Pacific N.West and their process is a recipe for rot.
The acrylic layer IS waterproof, and it does soak right into the wood fibres. I'm counting on it this time around, to prevent moisture penetration.

It's an experiment and hopefully this will be the answer to my bad experiences with horizontal exterior surfaces; the verticals...spindles and posts...have never been a problem as water doesn't just sit on them.


Note: the two shots of the Bosch belt sander, on it's back was to show how effective those crepe sanding-media cleaning blocks are!
If you don't have one, what are you waiting for? :)
 

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#2 · (Edited)
double kant the top of the horizontals 7°ish along both long lengths and ends.. (hip roof like the rail)

nice work Dan..
 
#4 ·
Charles; the price sticker is still on it...and it has that date but everything else on the sticker is illegible. I have a feeling it was either from General Paint or Kerrisdale Lumber(?)...maybe.
Stick; great idea! Where were you when I was rebuilding the railing? ;)

Did you notice the stair treads (horizontal surfaces)? D. Fir; I left them raw. I wash them down with bleach twice a year and that's pretty much it...they must be 12 yrs old now.
 
#6 ·
Charles; the price sticker is still on it...and it has that date but everything else on the sticker is illegible. I have a feeling it was either from General Paint or Kerrisdale Lumber(?)...maybe.

Stick; great idea! Where were you when I was rebuilding the railing? ;)

Did you notice the stair treads (horizontal surfaces)? D. Fir; I left them raw. I wash them down with bleach twice a year and that's pretty much it...they must be 12 yrs old now.
you didn't ask...
easiest way to add that kant is to use an electric plane in place...
also when you add the Kant it makes the edge of the 6/4 - 5/4 and handrail code compliant..
adding a drip lip to the bottom rim is to your benefit too,,,
 
#12 ·
Thanks Dan I'll have to look into those. This is what I'm needing to protect. This was a lodgepole pine growing on my place that had been badly damaged (probably hit by another tree) and managed to survive it. It didn't survive a mountain pine beetle attack later though which presented an architectural opportunity for me. Obviously this is a one of a kind and I want to keep it in good shape for as long as possible and solid color stain hasn't been doing as well as I had hoped.
 

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#8 ·
Looks good Dan and I hope it works. I'd like to find something to paint a wooden table top
my wife bought for the back porch where rain is blown on. The top is just brought out for family
gatherings so the rest of the time there is no table to use. I haven't looked for a solution (material)
to use yet so your post has my interest.

Bryan
 
#18 ·
That is oil based on it. If that rubber membrane works like a deck coating I'm thinking that if I coat the upper 5/8 or 3/4 of the horizontal surfaces and just re stain the rest that might keep water out and let any moisture in the wood still migrate out. Maybe I can do 100% of the vertical surfaces since moisture can migrate down and out.
 
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#21 ·
Know all those old canoes and ships that last long and kept going, with maintenance? Bet they didn't use Behr.

I'm (off and on) experimenting with old pine pitch finishes. Soaked a couple things with a mix of pine tar, turpentine and linseed oil. The seem to care less about the elements than many things and hosing them off doesn't seem to offend them either.

Worth looking into, for some projects.
 
#23 ·
It penetrates significantly on dry wood. After a couple days, it's hard and seems pretty water resistant. It seems to build too, so spots of my wife's potting bench are taking on a satin finish.

I'm guessing the boiled linseed oil is the builder, but the resin may take it, somewhat, into a poly type finish, since they rely on BLO, thinner and resin.