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kevin, that's a very heavy router, I think--compared to my Ryobi anyway. Are you planning on using an insert? I would consider an aluminum insert. As for the mdf, it is known to sag over time if not properly supported, so, the thicker the better, I think. I would think at least one inch or maybe 2 3/4 inch glued together. Unless of course, it has good support under it. Sorry for not being much more help.

Hopefully, one of the more experienced members will come along and give you more helpful advice.

good luck, Frank
 

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I made the error of reinforcing my router table and then realizing I had blocked the access for the dust port. Ooops. This wont hurt you if you use the enclosed underside of the table method for dust collection. . . you ARE using dust collection aren't you?

I stalled for about a year and finally moved to a DC away from my old shop vac with a seperator. What a difference. Minimal cleanup time means more time to play!
 

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Kevin

I would recommend two .750 thick MDF boards.(made in to one) 1.5 thick.
I have a Port.Cable 3.5HP/2.0HP (use both on the same table) hanging from a .500" x 11.000" x 11.000" clear plastic base and it works for all the hvy.duty bits I need to use on the router table i.e. 3.50" dia.bits.
If you want a picture of it let me know and I will post one or two.

Have a good week.
Bj
 

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Mdf is not the best choice

When building a top to support a heavy router I suggest trying the layer method from Shop Notes. Use 3/4" plywood and two adjoining layers of 1/4" hardboard(Masonite). Wrap the edges with "1 x" hardwood. Laminate both sides with Formica.(This step prevents warping) Use a good mounting plate, my preference is the Rousseau plate. This method is tried and true. Good luck.
 

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Hi Mike and Kevin

I do agree on the base plate and I also recommend the base plate from OakPark (Router WorkShop) if you are going to use and order fixtures from the OakPark, the base plates are predrilled for most of the fixtures and router types.
And that's a big selling point for the OakPark type,the Router(s) must be mounted dead on center to work right.
The drop down pocket to hold the base plate can be off just a bit but not the router.


Rousseau Router Plate, see links below ▼

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...1824704?_encoding=UTF8&s=hi&v=glance&n=228013

http://www.mcfeelys.com/product.asp?pid=RM-3511&rkgsource=froogle

http://froogle.google.com/froogle?hl=en&lr=&q=Rousseau router plate&btnG=Search&sa=N&tab=wf

Bj :)
 

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BobJ3, Laugh at those persons who didn't follow the instructions for mounting and using the Rousseau plate. Norm used one in his origonal table on the NYW for 10 years and most likely still would if Rockler hadn't sponsored the show.
 

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I would like to 2nd that,more pictures please on the hexagon router table.
Plus how you have the Vac.system setup on it.

Thanks
Bj :)
 

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Thanks for the links
WOW !
All I can say is WELL done,and ask how many years did it take to make ?
A five star router table. :)

Bj :)
 

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Very impressive. I assume you have this table set up for making panel doors. Really professional looking job. Well done.

Dave
the "Doctor"
 

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All I can say is WELL done,and ask how many years did it take to make ?

2 weeks before i was forced to put into production. still needing a little paint and knobs.

thx for the replies. ive ran around 130 raised panel doors so far. who needs a shaper.....rebel
 
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