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Just sitting here thinking about what I can do to improve my router jig. I have eight base cabinets to build which will mean 16 dadoes cut 1/4 inch deep in the lower sections for the cabinet bottoms to fit in.

My jig works great, but I would like to either modify it or make a new one.

Basically, the dado will be cut 5 inches above the bottom of the cabinet side 1/4 inch deep on the inside. I am considering reversing my jig so the fixed side will be toward the lower part of the cabinet. Maybe even replace that piece of the jig with one that is exactly 4 1/4 inches wide so it can be clamped to the bottom edge of the cabinet piece.

Hmmm...that may or may not work out since the 3/4 inch plywood is really only .701 thick or something like that. That would position the bottom slightly below the edge of the face frame. But then, that would probably be OK.

Here is a pic of my jig in action and the Sketchup drawing.

Any suggestions?
 

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uuuuuuuuuh, yeah. Figuring these things out is what makes woodworking so much fun and challenging. You'll figure it out Mike, I have no idea what in the zxx you are talking about.

Jerry
 

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Discussion Starter #3
@Jerry I use the jig to cut dadoes in the sides of plywood cabinets, or drawers, or what ever.

With one side adjustable, you simply stick your work piece in and adjust the moveable side to snug, then tighten the knobs. The router bit bearing will follow the sides of the jig and make a perfect fitting dado.

Here are a few pics of the jig in action.
 

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I would put the jig on one side of the ply first Mike and set the gap. Then you have to decide which side you want to register from, 4 1/4 from the bottom or 5" at the top. If you want uniformity from unit to unit I would add two arms to it, one at each end with a cleat to hook the bottom of the gables. I would use a spacer block to set the cleats at the right distance and that should give you accuracy within a few thou.
 

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@MT Stringer

Most "commercial" cabinets seem to have the top of the face frame slightly proud of the floor so I would think that the fixed part of the jig should be located to give 4-1/4" from the edge/bottom of the panel, with the top of the face frame being 5". This give a little wiggle room if the plywood thickness deviates from the nominal 18 mm (.708").
 

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Pretty cool setup Mike , and it's simple to make . Looks like it does the job well , thanks for sharing ;)

I can see I definitely need to build a decent work station one day with those bench dog holes and tracking
 

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I have a plan. I relocated two of the screws on the fixed side of the jig. I have a mark at 4 1/4 inches. When you add the width of the 3/4 inch plywood (sic), it will result in a dado that is just slightly less than 5 inches from the bottom of the cabinet member. Five inches is equal to the 3 1/2 inch high toe kick cut out plus 2 inches for the bottom face frame rail. As mentioned by Tom, that should make the face frame slightly proud of the cabinet bottom.

I am going to use my track saw to cut a strip off of the jig. I may have to make more than one pass. First one might be a little fat. Then I can adjust the track and cut it correctly.

Here's a couple of pics.

But first, the patio is open and the party is about to be on! :grin::grin::grin: The pit is warming up and my sweetie is prepping the jalapeno stuffed, bacon wrapped chicken breast! :smile:
 

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Does every person that uses routers make a Dado Gauge? I think every time I see anything about doing and using a router there is sure to be a note about a Self made Dado Gauge. I guess I will give in and try to make one. I have had pretty good luck without, but maybe, i can do better with one. It seems each time, I try something that is being used on this Forum, I find it helps me. I am just a stubborn old man and hate to think I need to be taught, I guess. I enjoy the information and appreciate each who add something useful.


I just want to say thanks to all of you. Your a big help to a guy that only turned nuts and bolts all of his life or had to stick it back together with a welder.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I have a plan. I relocated two of the screws on the fixed side of the jig. I have a mark at 4 1/4 inches. When you add the width of the 3/4 inch plywood (sic), it will result in a dado that is just slightly less than 5 inches from the bottom of the cabinet member. Five inches is equal to the 3 1/2 inch high toe kick cut out plus 2 inches for the bottom face frame rail. As mentioned by Tom, that should make the face frame slightly proud of the cabinet bottom.

I am going to use my track saw to cut a strip off of the jig. I may have to make more than one pass. First one might be a little fat. Then I can adjust the track and cut it correctly.

Here's a couple of pics.

But first, the patio is open and the party is about to be on! :grin::grin::grin: The pit is warming up and my sweetie is prepping the jalapeno stuffed, bacon wrapped chicken breast! :smile:
The bar is open! Everyone went inside to fix their plate...and refill their drinks. :smile:
 

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Does every person that uses routers make a Dado Gauge? I think every time I see anything about doing and using a router there is sure to be a note about a Self made Dado Gauge. I guess I will give in and try to make one. I have had pretty good luck without, but maybe, i can do better with one. It seems each time, I try something that is being used on this Forum, I find it helps me. I am just a stubborn old man and hate to think I need to be taught, I guess. I enjoy the information and appreciate each who add something useful.


I just want to say thanks to all of you. Your a big help to a guy that only turned nuts and bolts all of his life or had to stick it back together with a welder.

I watch a lot of TV shows of guys welding and wish I would have gotten into that a bit when I was younger, I like building things.

I don't know if every person that uses routers makes a dado jig but I've made a couple that I love using. I made a little one and a large one very similar to the jig
Mike made and they work great and they were fun to make.
 

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That looks just like the jig on the wood whisperer Marc did three or four years ago. Almost an exact duplicate. The cosmos reproduces itself.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)

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Well, alrighty then, let's build a jig!

In 30 minutes or less, I made a one time use jig with a stop block underneath which will space the jig 1 1/4 inches from the end of the cabinet side piece...all 16 of them (x2 dadoes).

I made the jig slightly wider than the 11 1/4 inch width of the work pieces just in case. Thus the two pieces of business card. :surprise:

Nothing is glued, just screwed together. If needed, I can make adjustment for the next project.

I have the jig clamped to the table so it will remain in place as I insert/remove the work pieces, flip them, and cut the other end. I have tried to make the work flow as easy and speedy as possible. I guess time will tell.

So that is it. I will start tomorrow (not before 10am!) building the 8 upper cabinets for the two kitchens (Archie's Rent House).

Thanks for everyone's input. I still plan on modifying my other jig so I can do the same thing when I start on the 8 bottom cabinets.

BTW, the router already has the 1/2 inch pattern bit installed and ready to make the first cut. I usually make two passes 1/8th deep each to yield a 1/4 inch deep dado.
 

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The jig worked great. I cut 32 dadoes in about 1 1/2 hours (including several breaks!). I didn't time my workflow, but I figured I was cutting two dadoes (one on each end), including setup and flipping in between cuts, in less than three minutes total. Having the jig clamped to the work table helped a lot. So it was insert workpiece, clamp, cut, unclamp, flip to other end, clamp, cut, unclamp and remove work piece...repeat on next piece.

Note that I marked the stops on my router so I wouldn't forget where to start. I would make the first cut 1/8th inch deep, then move to the next stop and make another pass.

Ready to start assembly work. :smile:
 

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Just sitting here thinking about what I can do to improve my router jig. I have eight base cabinets to build which will mean 16 dadoes cut 1/4 inch deep in the lower sections for the cabinet bottoms to fit in.

My jig works great, but I would like to either modify it or make a new one.

Basically, the dado will be cut 5 inches above the bottom of the cabinet side 1/4 inch deep on the inside. I am considering reversing my jig so the fixed side will be toward the lower part of the cabinet. Maybe even replace that piece of the jig with one that is exactly 4 1/4 inches wide so it can be clamped to the bottom edge of the cabinet piece.

Hmmm...that may or may not work out since the 3/4 inch plywood is really only .701 thick or something like that. That would position the bottom slightly below the edge of the face frame. But then, that would probably be OK.

Here is a pic of my jig in action and the Sketchup drawing.

Any suggestions?
What are the dimensions of the router bit that you use, I am guessing it must be in the region of 20mm / 3/4"
 
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