I just bought one, I'm waiting for it today... Was supposed to come in yesterday, but purolator delivered my box to someone else! I bought the makita one. Cheaper than the dewalt and festool. From the research I made, some people say that the Dewalt has a few design problems... Maybe it's just some Festool folks trying to trash it... I don't know.

 

I use a Festool track saw all the time, once you have one, you'll wonder how you lived w/out it. They also sell adapters to use routers on the tracks so the tracks are multi-purpose- I'm up to 9.5 meters of track already, but you can piece together smaller sections. The longer tracks work excellent for breaking down sheet goods and save a LOT of back strain when compared to table saw work. The table saw is one tool I do not really enjoy using and the track saw have cut my table saw time in half.
Other track saw advantages-
Safe, perfect one-handed cuts
Splinter/tearout free cuts- as good as any tablesaw (with a decent blade)
easy portability
Use track stops to make plunge cuts w/out kickback. Iv'e even used them to make plunge cuts for wood floor inlays.
Careful with the green tools, they can be addicting.

 

I really like the concept of these tools, the price is a bit of a scare. I saw the Festool saw at the London Wood Show this past weekend and was very impressed. Oh yes I want one, but not in the budget atm.

 

I was at at not so local retail vendor a while back. Looking over the festool line was was very impessed. Everything I've read about em, everything I've heard about em says quality, craftsmanship and support.

but deeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee'am. they are expensive!!!!!!:yes4:

 

I received my makita yesterday, did a few test cuts and everything looks very good! It's very quiet and dust collection is pretty good. The cuts are straight and very clean. It's way better than a regular circular saw for taking down sheets.

 

Bill and Christian,

Thanks for the reviews!

 

Christian, that is exactly what I've become used to from Makita, everything works perfectly straight out of the box.

 

Been doing some reading about these tools. Seems to be a war on! The EZ system is at Festool's throat and vice versa. Lots of bashing of the DeWalt saw by everyone. Makita owners seem generally happy but have a long wish list. Some other Euopean models in the race too. One of the wood mags need to do a serious comparison, or better yet a publication that doesn't make tons of revenue from these advertisers so we can get a TRUE picture.

 

Deb,
Here's a link to a well written and very detailed comparison of two name brand track saws, DeWalt and Festool with pictures.
Hope this helps...

Dewalt DWS520SK vs Festool TS55EQ - long with pictures - Sawmill Creek

 

...I agree Deb,....and have NO monetary affiliation with the manufacturer:nono:......AL

 

hi Deb, i agree, but it seems lots of the mags are in the pocket of festool.

Bill,i agree with you , they are expensive.

my thoughts on festools are, they may be great, but just look at the masterpieces produced without them.

 

There have been many masterpieces made without the aid of any power tool. Some still prefer to work without power. Personally, I have many Festool power tools and the only time I will buy any other brand is when Festool don't make that type of tool.
I have been disappointed too many times with previous tool purchases - Festool never disappoint. The only other tools I am happy to buy are Makita. They are built like tanks, but not very innovative. I recently bought a Makita circular saw and it is exactly the same as a Makita I used in the army 25 years ago, so I don't know what their R&D department has been doing in the mean time! I also have a Makita cordless drill, its quite good, but no where near as good as the Festool - and about the same price.

 

I have just purchased the Festool track saw. They have a router adapter that fits only their routers. Since I already own the Dewalt 618 and the Makita 1101 I was wondering if the Dewalt DWS5031 router adapter will work with the Festool track.

 

I have the Dewalt track saw. It works great and does everything I ask of it. I also bought the T-square and router guide. The router guide works great for dadoes. There are adapters with it to attach to different routers, but it hooked up to my Dewalt 618 right outta the box.

I have not tried the Makita or Festool track saws, but the Dewalt works great for us. It works great for site built cabinetry, where you can't really set up a good cabinet saw.

 

Just my 2 cents

What a joke 600.oo dollars for a power hand saw and some Alum.track..

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I take it you won't be buying one, eh? :laugh:

 

Thanks for the link Joe! Very informative.

 

This is as close as I am ever gonna get to one of those saws

Straight Edge Tool Guide

 

Hi Guys

All I'm saying if you want to put out 600.oo for a saw why not get a table saw, you can get a nice one for that, most of the guys I know use a Skill worm gear power hand saw for plywood in the shop and on the job site, most nail the plywood in place and cut it off right in place or they set up some saw horses and cut the plywood to size..

Most of the Festools are very over price tools, they are stuck with the 500.oo price tag on most of them, many power hand saws come with a vac.pickup port on them but most don't use them...after all we are talking about cutting up plywood the norm ,the junk man made wood...

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No question it's a specialized tool geared towards the cabinet shop that handles a lot of sheet goods. However not all plywood is "junk man made wood". Some high grade cabinet ply costs more than a lot of hardwoods.

Just a question bobj3, have you ever used a Festool product? If so, which one? Just wondering what you are basing your opinion on. Or is it strictly a price thing?

 

I Joe

I knew you would take a shot at me for that

I have had the sander and the router in my hands and dropped it like a hot potato when I saw the price tag , got to be nuts to pay that much for a router or a hand sander.. I saw the power hand saw and didn't pick it up ,didn't want to have a heart attack right on the spot.. many next to me had a hand on their chest and with their mouth wide open ... big hint..


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I use a track with a Bosch Circular Saw attached to it like these
Dakota Clamp Grip Guides with Scale (DKG36) - Buy online from Rutlands.co.uk Scroll down for the saw plate. You can mount a router on them,too, although the thickness of the mounting plate becomes more significant than with a saw.
It's a cheap solution and the guides can be used as clamps as well.
It works well for me, although I grant it is lightweight for professional use. I get panels cut up by my supplier on his CNC panel cutter normally, so it doesn't get heavy use.

Cheers

Peter

 

Hi Peter

I do about the same as you but being on the cheap side on I made my own, that's works great.. it locks right in the track..


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I use a track with a Bosch Circular Saw attached to it like these
Dakota Clamp Grip Guides with Scale (DKG36) - Buy online from Rutlands.co.uk Scroll down for the saw plate. You can mount a router on them,too, although the thickness of the mounting plate becomes more significant than with a saw.
It's a cheap solution and the guides can be used as clamps as well.
It works well for me, although I grant it is lightweight for professional use. I get panels cut up by my supplier on his CNC panel cutter normally, so it doesn't get heavy use.

Cheers

Peter

 

If a plunge saw is what you're after then do more searching. There are many different brand names that are putting these on the market besides just Festool.

My 2 skil-saw worm-drives will out work that high dollar Festool any day. I am with Bj on this one.

 

A buddy of mine has Festools. He brought his circ saw with rails to our club meeting to cut some ply for someone. Halfway through the job I noticed the connected rails didn't form a straight line.
The rail ends weren't cut to 90º and the connection made the rails off by 1/2" at the ends. He had been using them for several years and never knew they were off. That explained problems he had with several projects.
For the money paid, you would expect those rails to be exact.

His cordless drill came with a NiCad battery pack. No NiMH batteries?

They may be well made tools (maybe), but I agree that they are WAY overpriced.

 

exact.

His cordless drill came with a NiCad battery pack. No NiMH batteries?

Depends on the model. They offer both and some models come with Lithium Ion. I've never tried one, still very happy with my DeWalt 12v XRP.

 

You'll find that many here are just "hobbyists". It isn't a business for them. Even if it were, I'm sure that they would all agree that the pricing & quality is what "makes or breaks" a deal for a tool. I make do with what I have at the time. I'm a big Makita and Milwaukee tool fan but, the majority of my tools are craftsmen, due to price. People tend to go with what they know and whom they trust.

We all have our "preferences" when it comes to brand name tools/machinery.

I've been waiting for someone to say, they use a straight 2X4. This will work for smaller cuts but, if you're planning to use 6' + how do you intend to take in account for the crown?!?!

 

I've been waiting for someone to say, they use a straight 2X4.

That's what I do. Usually a jointed 1x clamped down. Presto, a straight cut.

 

Jim,

Thanks for the review and the description of the table.

 

If you have any more questions about the Dewalt, just fire away.

 

I looked longingly at all the track saws at the wood shows. Even test drove the Festool saw. As someone who has only used a circular saw and a straight edge to cut sheet goods these saws seemed like a great tool. I have had the saw "wander" from the straight edge on occasion. I am not strong enough or confident enough to break down sheet goods on the table saw. I can't justify the cost of one of these tools as I don't do enough work with sheet goods, and I am not making any money with this "hobby".
I have had mostly good luck with the circular saw, I use software to make up a cut list and allow 1/8" overage on my cuts so I can clean them up on the table saw. It's minimal waste that way.
But I would say if money wasn't an issue, one of these saws would be a nice addition to any shop.

 

As someone who has only used a circular saw and a straight edge to cut sheet goods these saws seemed like a great tool. I have had the saw "wander" from the straight edge on occasion.

Hi Deb:

stop and think a minute, what does the track saw do? It ties the saw/router to a straight edge. Ok, duplicate that. You've already got all of the parts, with a little imagination and scrap, you can easily duplicate the actions.

Take your straight edge and make a cleat that goes over the top of it. The grain of the cleat should be at right angles to the grain of the straight edge. Now, take a good look at the plate of your circular saw. You'll find lots of holes. Use a few of them to attach the saw to the cleat. If there are no suitable holes, look carefully at the sole plate of your saw and you'll see it was stamped or molded. Look where you might drill two holes, one at each end of the plate, away from the motor or adjustment methods. Now, make sure you do not drill through any of the bends or ridges molded into the plate. I would think the outside leading corner and the inside trailing corner should be adequate to hold it securely. Make sure there's a little bit of play.

Now, the only tricky part...

Make sure you've got a really good blade installed! Circular saws go through hell and the blade takes most of the punishment. However, notice that track saws have a fancy cover over the blade. Make sure you have a second circular saw for the "dirty" work.

The _blade_ has to be set perfectly parallel to the sliding edge of the cleat that rubs against the straight part of your straight edge. I found that a digital micrometer, clamps and patience are the only way. Once you've found that "sweet spot" bolt your saw to the cleat in some way. If you have to attach a platform to the cleat and the saw sits on the platform, use a bit of plastic laminate or UHMW on the sole of the platform.

Now, I tried all of this and instead, made a saw specific straight edge.

One of the reasons that I'm interested in Jim's table setup is that, like you, my arms aren't long enough nor my pockets deep enough for another solution. I found that a few 2x4s on the floor and kneeling on the panel and cutting like that is the most effective way. Jim's table looks like an attractive alternative to the shop floor (when I can find the shop floor ;-)

See Below

 

Deb, a little bit of a sidetrack here. What software do you use to make up a cut list?

 

There is a cut list add on for Google Sketch Up but I use CutList Plus. It works really well. I used it for my closet and had very little waste.