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So now I'm making a few more raised panel doors and more in the near future so maybe a 3.25HP router would be a nice choice to help facilitate the chore. As some know I build a Norm Abrams styled router table back some time ago that I'm thrilled with and have a Bosch 1617EVS motor mounted in it that seems to work very well. I have a JessEm Rout-R-Lift installed that works great with the 1617EVS motor and really don't want to buy another lift to accommodate a larger router motor. Hence the question, is the above Triton router a good fit in itself to simply get the router and make a new mounting plate for it? Are there many that are happy with it's ability to change bits, change speeds, and adjust the height to justify the additional cost? Interestingly enough the new JessEm Mast-R-Lift II 02120 Router Lift will now fit most all diameter router motors where as when I was setting things up it was one of two, either for the 4.2" or 3.5" so I went with what I had. If I were to do that over........

So yes, I'm looking for some sage advice from those who have experience with both hopefully, using a lift and then the Triton as is table mounted. Pros, cons, and so on.
 

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I can't speak for the Triton but I use a Hitachi M12V2 for my table and it has above table adjustment capability. It has a 14mm nut on the end of the adjustment rod so I use a mecahinc's speeder wrench with that socket on the end so unless I used an adapter on a drill instead you couldn't get much faster. It's also easy to tell how much fine adjust you've made with the speeder wrench. The only other advantage of a lift I see is not needing to reach under the table to lock the adjustment but since I leave under the table open that is a minor inconvenience in my book. https://www.cpooutlets.com/on/deman...t/Search-Show?q=hitachi+m12v2&simplesearch=Go
 

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I use the Triton in my router table and I am pleased with it. I went with this router because I have a cast iron table that cannot be fitted with a router plate I really like the above table bit changes and it certainly has enough power for raised panels. (I am currently making 8 raised panel doors.) However if since you already have the JessEm lift I would buy a router for that. I occasionally wish I had just built a table and put in a lift. The JessEm is one of the lifts that was tempting me when I set up my shop.
 

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I'm extremely happy with my Triton. Harry Sinclair turned me on to it several years ago. I had a Rockler table, top and lift for my 1617 (I have two), but didn't like the lift and sold it. Got the Triton for more power, but mainly for the built in lift. It is a great router, easy to operate, and I was able to use my Rockler plate by drilling one extra hole for the lift crank. Later I swapped the rockler plate for a larger and thicker Woodpecker plate, which has a twist lock insert setup. You have to reach under the table to unlock the safety on/off switch.

Changing bits is extremely easy to do, you crank the collet up, which locks the safety switch off. You press a button to lock the shaft and use one wrench to loosen/tighten the collet.

I highly recommend the TRA001 for table use. It is, however, too heavy and large for me to use freehand, so I keep the 1617s for that purpose. The one thing that's a slight issue for me isn't the router, but the tight fit into the Rockler under table dust collection box. The box's opening is just a little to small for comfort.

The power will handle anything you throw at it.
 

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I’ll give my .50 since I’ve only had my Triton since Xmas eve. I made 10 raised panel doors for my kitchen using my DEWALT 618 and had no real issues with it other than it did bogg down a wee bit. I really just wanted the above table height and liked the auto spindle lock. I have used the triton for making dados to finish my nyw router cabinet drawers and it worked fine.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I have the TRA001, but have to admit to having never used it. So don't listen to me. But I do trust Ben from Crimson Guitars. He supplies some great tools for working on guitars and he builds guitars and runs a school for luthiers.

He does a good review on Triton routers: "triton routers review, head to head and features demo"

I can't post a url yet, so please search Youtube for "ntFAiQcXogk" It's 41 mins long though.
 

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I have a Triton TRA1000 in my table and it leaves nothing to be desired, but as mentioned, it is not a good choice for hand held use. The only improvement, and it applies to all plunge routers, is to replace the chuck with a MUSCLECHUCK as shown in the photo. I made the simple lift as shown at next to no cost and it works very well.
 

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I bought the Triton TRA001 to replace the Makita plunge router I had been using in my table. I have only used it a few times but like its features. One issue that has come up a few times, when I raise the collet above the table to change bits, often the sliding safety cover jams and I'm unable to lower it. I usually have the router plugged into a on/off paddle switch on the end of the table and therefore leave the switch on the router in the on position. Is that what's causing it to jam? Should I reach in and turn the switch off each time? ����
 

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Steve, I can't really add very much to what has already been said...the Triton clears dust very well when you have a fence dust collector attached...very little drops down.

You do need to lock and unlock the lever after adjusting the height and you do need to turn off the Triton's switch in order to lift it high enough for the shaft to lock to change bits. It does this automatically...just turn the shaft till it catches. Then when it is lowered again, you need to switch it back on (assuming you have external on/off switch).

There is more than enough power and speed control is very good...panels should be no problem.

BTW...the 1617 will do panels easily enough...
 
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I have the TRA001 permanently bolted to my router table top. I really like the "quick travel function" where you can adjust bit height very quick. I never use the winding handle, event if it's a nice feature I still have to reach below the table to lock the column and being down there it's quicker to use the quick handle.

I have removed the switch lock that forces you to unpower the machine to change bits. In the router table I see no risk with doing this, as long as you don't power on with the spindle lock engaged. Can't post links yet but the instruction is easily found with search string "Removing the Triton switch interlock"
 
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