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Hi folks,

I am having a bit of a problem with matching the routs on the top and carcass. I am using stops on my table and if I set the stops for the bottom, to center on the carcass, the top does not match those stop settings. Confused? Me too. The top is swapped end for end which makes the dado off from the dado on the carcass. HELP!!

thanks

Crash
 

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Hi folks,

I am having a bit of a problem with matching the routs on the top and carcass. I am using stops on my table and if I set the stops for the bottom, to center on the carcass, the top does not match those stop settings. Confused? Me too. The top is swapped end for end which makes the dado off from the dado on the carcass. HELP!!

thanks

Crash
yup...

what type/kind of hinges..
door style...
where are the routs.. door, carcass, both...
and how are you feeding a carcass to an RT???

you got a picture???
 

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Marc, I don't use a RT for hinges. I can barely line them up when I can see what I am routing. Sounds pretty tricky to get it right. Good luck.
 

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I haven't tried routing for hinges before.

But I do have a question. Can you take the two parts line them up next to each other and us one jig to cut both at the sometime? It seams to me that doing so would align them without effort. Of course that would mean you would have to use the router handheld instead of a table but in my mind (disclaimer, I installed new flooring in my kitchen today and now I've been enjoying a few beers.)

I've been leaning Sketchup and did a quick sketch.



I'm not sure how the jig setup would go unless you're working with similar hinges often then you could cut a pattern the size of the hinge use a top bearing router bit as a guide and cut both hinge locations at the same time.

Again, I'm very new into woodworking and this is all in my mind I could be very well be wrong. Maybe someone can help us both out.
 

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w/ so many cheap jigs and templates out there for routering hinges why go complex...
 
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Hinges can be a challenge. I've tried a number of templates for routing the hinge mortise. By far the best for me is a simple rectangular cut out in template material to guide a hand held router with a bushing. Cut each mortise separately.

First, I clamp the lid and the base together and mark where the hinges will go on both. Then I separate them, clamp on my template and route each one in turn. See the picture. I usually bang one of these out for a specific hinge. By running a test route on it you make the recess that is the hinge length. Then line up the edges of that cut with the marks for where you want hinges to go. The cuts go really fast - like a minute to clamp the template and route each mortise.

You can make this template a lot more elaborate and adjustable if you want. However, I can bang out a task specific one like shown above in a short amount of time.

I have made a template to route both top and bottom at once but found that getting everything perfectly aligned took longer and was more fraught with potential error than just doing them one at a time.
 

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I have a few templates, but they never seem to work right so I just line my pieces up, place the hinge in place then scribe around it with a knife and use a chisel. A really sharp chisel I might add.
 

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Yeah, I would prefer to do it that way but I have never been able to do a really clean hinge mortise that way.
really sharp correctly sized chisels and a bit of practice...
 

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I would use a jig that is for handheld router and has both the layouts attached to each other with the correct spacing between them. That way the spacing has to be exactly the same for every piece you mortise. The only other issue then is getting each side centered one to the other.

In other terms it would be the picture that Phil shows but times two and joined together at the right spacing. (Of course that's if you're using two hinges).
 

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I would use a jig that is for handheld router and has both the layouts attached to each other with the correct spacing between them. That way the spacing has to be exactly the same for every piece you mortise. The only other issue then is getting each side centered one to the other.

In other terms it would be the picture that Phil shows but times two and joined together at the right spacing. (Of course that's if you're using two hinges).
yeah but what kind of hinges in what configuration...
need more information...
 

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KUDOS on you box..
very nicely done...

rout the hinge mortise as you were...
begin the mortise a tad long and then stop routing a fuzz short..
finish w/ a chisel...
stop trying for dead nut accuracy on the RT...

take a scrap piece the exact width of your box and clearly mark your start/stop points...
start you cut and when you're happy w/ the results make the right en of the test piece the start block/point/reference...
mount your start block at this point...
flip the test piece over and re cut to verify that you are golden...
proceed the mortise till you get to the stop mark on your test piece...
this makes the left end of the test piece the stop pint...
install your stop block there...
do several complete test mortises...

skip the math...
 

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Along the lines of what Stick says measure as little as possible. Try to directly transfer length or other measurements as much as possible. This is one of the functions of jigs. That is the idea behind Phil`s diagram and my suggestion. Let the jig do the job of getting both mortises equal.
 
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