[Tagwatts]

I have a Bosch 1617 EVS 1/2" Router, a Bosch Router Table, and a Bosch Router lift. When I purchased, I thought it would be well to stay with the same brand throughout. The router works great in the table, The table is adequate for what I try to do.
The issue is with the lift. I can not seem to get it go to the right height or lower to the right depth. The key that I have goes into the slot and turns the mechanism fine. There never seems to be enough adjustment. I have to release the main clamping arm on the lift to move the router up or down. The secondary clamp is released by using your thumb to press against it. When I release the secondary clamp, the router will fall till I catch it in my hand. I am sure there is some thing that I am not doing or not doing as needed.
Dose any one else have this same set up. If so,could you enlighten me as to how to make this lift work as I think it should, I would be most appreciative.
When I use the router now I try to eyeball and use a piece of scrap to set the depth that I need the router to be at. This is pretty awkward as I am holding the router with one hand and looking at the router bit up on top trying to get the depth right. This is the first occasion that I have tried use the router with the table and the lift. The router is a plunge router and the Router Lift and the plunge base look to be the same to me. .
Thank You, Tagwatts1:frown:

 

[Herb Stoops]

How much up and down adjustment do you get now?
Do you have a separate plunge base, or are you using it on the table?

Herb

 

[pusserboy]

First I think you have the same as I do Bosch RA1165 Under-Table Router Base with Above-Table Hex Key and the Bosch 1617 EVS 1/2" Router. Go on youtube and ask how to use it there are quite a few videos there that might help.
Stuart

 

[Herb Stoops]

I had a 1617 with a fixed base that I mounted under my cast iron top and I took the black plastic sub base off to mount it. then drilled a hole for the hex key to set router height. I had to release the clamp on the motor to raise and lower,then re-clamp once set to height.

I replaced it with a Rockler lift eventually that didn't need to be locked and unlocked, but had no problems with the height adjustment on the Bosch base.

Herb

 

[john60]

You need to use the fixed bas base. I have this router and used it in a Skill table for a while Only issue was the key hole filled with sawdust quiet quickly and had to be blow out with air

 

[Stick486]

Only issue was the key hole filled with sawdust quiet quickly

cork it...

 

[Bushwhacker]

I have exactly the same set up and have the same problems. At first it was due to saw dust entering the key slot on the top of the router base, But even when I clean this out, it still does not work.
It is a PITA to change settings or to set it up at all.
I hope someone has an answer.

David.

 

[Bushwhacker]

cork it...

What does that mean Stick? "Cork it".

David

 

[Stick486]

What does that mean Stick? "Cork it".

David

put a plug as in a corl in the access hole..

 

[Tagwatts]

pusserboy,

I thank you for your input. To be honest I had not thought of You Tube. I am just about to throw my hands in the air and buy a new lift and try it. But I will watch and read a bit more.

Thanks Again,

Frank

 

[TwoSkies57]

Frank...

You are limited to about 1 1/2" worth of total "fine adjustment" The fine adjustment +/- starts with the position of the "coarse adjustment level" in one of the three notches on the router body. << in order for things to slide smoothly, the router body and the lift need to be kept pretty free and clear of debris>> In the center notch with the coarse lever in a centered position, you'll have about 3/4" up or down. With the coarse lever adjustment in either the upper or lower notch and the fine adjustment turned all the way down or up prior to the initial positioning of your bit, you'll be able to get the max adjustment. Prior to engaging the coarse adjustment lever you can move the lever up or down using the fine adjustment wrench. The high/medium/low notch determines your starting point and can be latched into position. Its alot of farting around to get where you want to go but it will work. Just takes a little practice paying attention to where you want to start from to get to where you think you'll need to go.

The higher end lifts eliminate all of the fuss by allowing for sliding the router body up and down on shafts and then the use of a secondary fine tuning or micro adjustment of the bit.

Even my PRl-V2 as good a lift as it is, has a limited about of "micro adjustment"...

 

[Barry747]

What Bill said. I have the exact same setup. When I put the router mouter into the mounting I will lift it going through each of the 3 course notches until the bit is roughly where I want it. Then I use fine adjustment to raise or lower it to the working height. One tip. Before you mount the router motor into the mounting bracket, move the fine adjustment so that it is in the center of the vertical screw. This will give you maximum up and down adjustment ability. I hope this explanation makes sense.

 

[DesertRatTom]

I had a 1617 in a Rockler lift, which I think I sold to Herb? I was fairly happy with it. But I replaced it with a Triton TRA001 under the table. It has a spring you remove for under table use.

Currently $235 at HD (online order, free store delivery), which is about the same price as a Rockler lift. Other, better lifts go for much more, so it makes sense to buy the Triton instead. It has a couple of minor eccentricities for safer operation, but is superb and noticeably more powerful than the Bosch.

 

[pusserboy]

Tagwatts1
on youtube there are a lot of different set ups I hope they have yours.
Stuart

 

[Bushwhacker]

pusserboy,

I thank you for your input. To be honest I had not thought of You Tube. I am just about to throw my hands in the air and buy a new lift and try it. But I will watch and read a bit more.

Thanks Again,

Frank

If you find anything Frank, please share it.

David