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Every type of material has its own reducer, interestingly the best way to get blood off is with spit, water based stains use water, most lacquer use a nitrocellulose thinner the same as car paint normally is thinned with what we call 'GP Thinner', as does many normal non turps based lacquers, oil based lacquers use turpentine, Turps reduces all oils, I often make a mix of 40% linseed oil and 40% of turpentine and then I also add as a hardener, 20% of any turps based lacquer, this is a reasonably thin mix and as it has 20% lacquer in it then that lacquer soaks in very well and it does acts as an hardener, now this mix can only be used as a 'first coat' and it must be left to totally dry before it is cut back, it cannot be used as a friction oil, if you want to use an oil mix as a friction oil then you leave out the 20% lacquer, if you use the mix I have described as a hardener sealer then it does act as a 'sealer' and after it is 'fully dry' and 'cut back' then you can rub in more oil but oil mix without any lacquer in it, or you can coat it with your oil lacquer of choice. I always say that you should test any finish on a sample piece of wood before you use it on your work so keep offcuts from your construction and then test your finish on that wood before you try it on your work. N
 
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