Chris-

I have multiple tables. Some with fences that adjust in slots, some that I clamp down.

I've never had any work catch in any of those slots. On the table with fence adjustment slots, if I get too much saw dust on the table, then the fence catches when I go to make a adjustments. Makes it hard to make fine adjustments. Then when I go to make big adjustment, then I'm limited to where those slot are.

On the other hand, the tables where I clamp the fence down- They are fast to set and make adjustment. I don't have to worry about it sticking at all. I can take those fences and put them anywhere on that table... Or put them on another table in an instant.

I do use my miter slots. I need them. I use them for many of the jigs that I use. I clamp featherboards in place on the table and fence. If I had OEM type feather boards that went into t-slots or miter slots, I would probably use them. I also clamp stop blocks and material hold-downs in place.

I guess "clamping" leaves things adaptable and adjustable for me.

That is at least what works for me and what I've noticed on mine.

 

If I ever have to make a new one, my vote goes with the T-Track.

 

I have slots in the rear of the fence about 3" long and I have never needed anything longer. For the most part I only adjust the fence far enough to catch the edge of the wood. Very seldom do I set it back any farther. However Thinking about it a Tee track would be better. The problem that I have is keeping the fence parallel to the table. Because the slots are wider than the 1/4" bolts the fence sometimes has to be measured . When making a puzzle box this is important. If I used a Tee track I would only place a short 3" strip behind the fence. You will find that most of the time you really don't need a fence for anything other than keeping the wood steady because the wood rides on the bearing of the bit. The miter slot should be about 5" from the bit if it is too far then it can be difficult to use an accessory such as a box joint jig with.

 

Chris, many people like to use T tracks. I installed one on my first fence. They do limit the positions you can adjust from. Fixed locations are good for things like box joint jigs for quick set up but a hole works better than T track for this. When you clamp your fence or jigs you can position them anywhere to suit your needs.

 

Chris, it's either Ford or Chevy. T-Track or no T-Track. It depends on who you ask. As for me? My table has no tracks of any kind and over the years I haven't done a project that would indicate the need for it. To me they are only "bells and whistles" or more unneeded expense and effort to install them. Your mileage may vary...

 

Hi Chris - Should be pretty obvious by now that they are not mandatory by anymeans. Depending on how you work probably will be the biggest dictator of whether you need them or not. One way to decide would be to build without and add if you think they will benefit you. Remember, the fence does not need to extend much more than an inch or so, 2" max, in front of the bit. This, depending on where you put the clamp bolts in the fence and the configuration of the fence, means the t-tracks can end as much as 2 or 3 inches behind the bit centerline, far enough to seldom be in the path of the stock.
FWIW, I'm in the pro t-track camp, I find them to be handy clamping points for other jigs and fixtures but, as always, there are several ways to accomlish any given task.

 

Any fence I build will have at least 2 t-tracks. Table top not so much. Do like a miter track for some operations.

Drill press table another story... my next will have t-tracks!

George was right, tho. You will get many answers to that question and none will be wrong!

 

Hello

For me, no t-track for the fence. I block the fence between the two table sides. Can not be faster and fine turning in addition.

 

I figure a lot of people use T-tracks, etc., in tables they make because seems like all of the tables for sale, and all the plans to make one, have them; and people want to do their table 'right'.. I was going to try some of that on the first table I made. Then thought, Why?, if I need a fence I can clamp it down, same with about anything else I could think of, including feather board. So, I went with a plain, flat, top, and am on I think my 4th or 5th table (no reason to keep track, so didn't), with nothing but flat tops, and no regrets. If there is another top, it will be just plain flat too.

I don't think you need them. Costs to buy, more time to put in, but if that's what you want, then do it.

Now I don't use a fence, and if I did I would probably just use a chunk of 2X4 clamped down. But I know some of you guys do use a fence on a regular basis. If I did use a fence regularly, that is where I would put in the extras and the time in making. Would still clamp it down tho; unless you constantly set the fence up for the some recurring job, and need the same positioning each time, in that case I might reconsider the clamping only.

 

I personally don't like to cut into My table top for track, or any thing else! When I built My table, I made a ledge, or overhang on My table. I can clamp anything to My table that I want. One clamp, and it is in place. A second clamp to make sure it stays where I put it. some years ago, I bought an Incra jig, on special, and I mounted that on a board and clamp it to the table. I rarely use the Incra jig. I do use the edge of the mount board more. I do not see any use for a track, if I did, I would have not used it, I am sure. Watch the Router Workshop, and watch how easy the set-up is.