Use of circular saw blades on a table saw
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When using a 10" blade the surface speed will be much greater and therefore you get a better and faster cut. If you use a smaller blade, the cutting speed will be reduced, you'll need to feed slower and you'll get a sloppier cut...
Do you have a specific need for using circ saw blade on the 4100...?
Do you have a specific need for using circ saw blade on the 4100...?
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better CS blade negate the sloppy cut...
then again I don't do cheap budget blades...
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While certainly the depth of cut would be reduced, I've heard the opposite -that a circular saw (7.25") works as well, makes smoother cuts, throws up less sawdust.
Here's one example
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that blade will work but the Diablo is Freud's economy blade...
in an emergency CS blade will work...
but...
you will open a can of worms you needn't get into...
stick w/ the real deal...
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What's in the worm can? What's the reasons?
Obviously, some people have success with it.
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slower cut speeds...
fewer blade selections..
more work for the saw shortening it's life...
some people have success w/ base jumping too...
some don't...
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I'll remember that if I ever base jump with a circular saw blade.
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I guess if you slow your feed rate and pick the right tooth count for the application (cross cut vs ripping) AND are careful enough to minimize some tear out and potential of burning (maple, etc) then go for it...
Just keep in mind that the higher the tooth count to eliminate some of the issues, the slower the feed rate and greater chance of burning you'll need to consider.
If you use a very thin circ blade you may have issues also with the cut fitting the riving knife...then you'll probably take the knife off...and the "can" gets deeper...
The circ blade is also probably not as good as a general combination 10" blade covering more applications...YMMV...
There are plenty of youtube vids that argue both sides...
Just keep in mind that the higher the tooth count to eliminate some of the issues, the slower the feed rate and greater chance of burning you'll need to consider.
If you use a very thin circ blade you may have issues also with the cut fitting the riving knife...then you'll probably take the knife off...and the "can" gets deeper...
The circ blade is also probably not as good as a general combination 10" blade covering more applications...YMMV...
There are plenty of youtube vids that argue both sides...
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Steve...maybe I should clarify and respond to your original question and not jump ahead..."anybody use circ saw blades...4100"...
I have a 4100 and do not use circ saw blades.
There are probably others on the forum that do use circ blades on their 4100...you'll need to wait for their responses...
I have a 4100 and do not use circ saw blades.
There are probably others on the forum that do use circ blades on their 4100...you'll need to wait for their responses...
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Another example of circular saw blades used.https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1&q=use+circular+saw+blade+on+table+saw#kpvalbx=1
Sadly, Colin did not use the circular saw blade on his table saw while base jumping so I'll wait for that to show up on youtube.
Sadly, Colin did not use the circular saw blade on his table saw while base jumping so I'll wait for that to show up on youtube.
Didn't Mike @MT Stringer use two CS blades sided by side to cut the grooves in drawer sides for the bottom panel? At the time, I'd considered that set-up for making the grooves on the inside of door stile/rails for u/s plywood panels - I think I wound up deciding that the trial and error in trying to get the groove centered wasn't worth any possible time savings. Using a flat top blade, I get the first cut centered, flip the piece end for end to make sure the cut is centered and then bump the fence and take the same two cuts, sneaking up on the fit I need for the panel.
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I have a 4100 ,I haven't tried the skilsaw blades on it, but have used a 8" boxcutter blade many times and no problems. A person can tell by the feel to establish a good feed rate. Over the years on the job, I have used 7 1/4" blades on the job site saws without any problems, It was always, "Don't worry about it get the job done." You shouldn't have any problems.
Herb
Herb
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Since my Unisaw doesn't allow me to lower a 10" blade low enough to insert a new zero clearance insert and make the cut, I use a 7 1/4" blade first. Then switch to a good 10" blade of choice to finish the cut. I have a different zero clearance insert for each blade that I use. I label the bottom of the insert to indicate which blade it is for so I don't use the wrong one. Other than using the small blade for this one purpose I don't think I've ever used a small regular saw blade on my Unisaw for anything else, but I do have an 8" box joint blade set and an 8" dado blade set that get used on the Unisaw.
Charley
Charley
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BobJ3 used to promote using circ saw blades on the TS. His reason was less flex so I'm assuming he used them in miter situations and it wouldn't have been on very thick material. An 8 1/2 would work too with a little more cut capability but blade choices in that size are really limited it seems.
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I have done the same as CharlieL on the ZC inserts on my large saw Also use the 8" Dado on both saws.
Herb
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I use the 7 1/4 inch to split a piece of 3/4 inc wood down the diddle, I've re sawn 1 1/2 inch maple use the blade. However as the blade is thin it will deflect. I rais the saw blade in small increments and get glass finish on wood. I took t he time to build a sled from 1/2 Baltic birch and using the red tool square i set it exactly at 90 degrees and I stick wood to the sled. Is it about 8 inches tall and wide and the wood does not wobble but flat on the table.
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Actually, the circular saw blade spins faster, thinner kerf, and is less difficult for the motor to spin. Less strain on the table saw lengthens life.
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