It looks good to me. If you can get a chance to check it out be sure to bring a combo square so you can check out how square the blade is to the miter slots. Also measure the miter slots to make sure they are 3/4" wide otherwise you find it almost impossible to find miter bars for various jigs or have to resort to making your own.

As for the sears, I can't find that model number (doesn't mean it is wrong, just means I didn't find it.) If you can get a picture of it, this site might help Old Wood-Working Machines (OWWM) - Welcome.

 

Here's the owners manual for the sears saw, about 1970's vintage

OWWM - Craftsman - Publication Reprints - 113.299142 / 113.299040 / 113.299470 10" Table Saw Manual

and a picture
OWWM - Photo Index - Craftsman - 113.29940

When I moved into my current house, the previous owner left a similar saw (1973 edition). The bushings in the motor were so bad that I swapped it out with a Harbor freight motor for $60 or so,and a fresh belt and it ran great. It's still running strong 6 years later at a friend of mine's house.

The one thing to look for is that the extension wings are solid (either cast iron, stamped steel, aluminum, etc), I personally don't like the open grid type.

Hopefully you will be able to find a splitter or guard arrangement to replace any missing ones.

 

Here are some pics and some info I found on another site.

Jack

 

Much better than me at searching

If I read the plate right on the delta saw it is a 34-570 DeWALT ServiceNET - Official Online Store for DeWALT, Porter Cable, Delta, and Black and Decker Parts should be the parts diagram. There is a thread on Lumberjocks about this saw that didn't make it sound good in the part I read. Helping fixing an old table saw. - by matt0852 | LumberJocks.com :: woodworking community

I would recommend some how figuring out how to attach a riving knife to either one. I haven't looked at how it is attached to my new saw but it seems to help prevent kick backs or is at least supposed to. I do know that my old menards cheapie table saw didn't have one or a decent splitter and I wish it would have. Lack of one is what drove the new purchase this year.

If not able to attach a riving knife I have seen a plain splitter attached to a lot of home made plates for the opening around the blade. Don't know of any links right off hand, but if you search for zero clearance you should be able to find examples.

 

Jake:
Be careful with the craftsman, if the motor you have is not right I wouldn't recomend it. He is probally selling it because he priced out motors. I have a craftsman TS and it works well. My motor went about 5 yrs ago. For what Sears wanted for a motor I could have bought a now saw. I ended up buying a different motor but is still cost me $700 which was expensive but still less than Craftsman.
Wayne

 

Just found that Sears doesn't sell the motor I would need any longer.

 

Thanks for all the good info guys. After I posted I found the old wood working machine site and then found the craftsman saw, that's a great website for info. Waynoe, $700 for a motor. Was this a motor for a cabinet saw? 3 phase? I would think I would be able to find a suitable motor at Grainger or maybe even Harbor Freight (I think they sell Baldor motors) cheaper than going through Sears. I'll probably go look at the Craftsman saw this weekend, good idea about checking for squareness and the miter slot size.

 

The Delta saw should have no problem with accessories. They have not changed design much over the years until current cabinet saw. That one in the picture is a contractor model. I would favor a Delta over a Craftsman. Turn it on & make sure it works. There are adjustments to true up a saw incase it is out of square.

 

I'll ditto what James says. The Delta should have adjustments for just about everything and if the adjustment doesn't work, change the bolt. There is nothing particularly unique about the Delta. The motor mount should be pretty much the same as everyone else. If you scrounge around you might find the cast iron table wings to replace the pressed steel ones. Heavy, chunky, infinitely tunable and very usable. Not difficult to clean up and a bare minimum of unique parts. I have the Ridgid version of this and it works well.

 

Hi Jake - Looks like a nice saw at a pretty good price. I really like the infeed area.

 

Here's another Craftsman that needs a motor.

Table Saw

 

I'd stay away from the older craftsmen TS's. Most parts as you've just discovered are no longer available. Why buy something that needs a part you can't find? There is something I find a little odd here though. How come no one has suggested giving any of these table saws a good look over? Check the trunnions, are they in good shape? Don't just take someone's word for it, check it out yourself. There may be hidden problem they may "bite" you later down the road.

For both Delta's you listed, the price isn't bad but, you'll still need a motor. Grizzly, Grainger and I believe Fastenal could match you with one.

Just my $0.02 worth

 

I don't know enough to remember the word trunnions, but the overall straightness is why I suggested checking to see how parallel to the miter slots the blade was. I figured it it was close to true the adjustment parts could be used to fix it, thus checking to see if things are still okay.

Also showing my limited knowledge here, but I thought that craftsman was a brand that parts could normally be found through the sears parts department. At least that was always my experience as a kid when ever I went with my father to pick up a part or as a teenager when he sent me to go get the parts. I suppose he, being a parts buyer for his job, knew enough to get the parts sears didn't have from grainger or some other supplier and get the parts that would work instead of the original sears/craftsman part)

Soapdish, even if the blade isn't parallel it can be righted. The Delta model you show looks like the one an old employer of mine bought for his framing crews, one for each truck. They were used every day in and out of bad and good weather. This is an excellent contractor model and will you you fine.

The two threads I read on other sites (re the craftsman on Ridgid and the delta on Lumberjocks) made it seem like the craftsman was the better choice of the two. The basic feeling was that the older product was made better and that 1985 (approximately when the delta model came out) was when Delta quality had gone down hill. I do see that part listed as a rockwell saw and I thought as another brand or two. I didn't look at the parts diagram enough to realize it was a contractor type saw and thought it was a home type saw with the universal motor directly attached. But again probably showing my lack of knowledge here. (need an over my head or clueless emoticon)

 

Soapdish, even if the blade isn't parallel it can be righted. The Delta model you show looks like the one an old employer of mine bought for his framing crews, one for each truck. They were used every day in and out of bad and good weather. This is an excellent contractor model and will you you fine.

Like any tool if its been abused and or beat to death its useless. Motors, belts and fences can be replaced, more important is a flat table surface and an intact elevator and miter trunnion.

 

Ok guys, here's what I got. I went over and looked that the Delta saw that said "needs motor". The guys said he had bought the saw new and used the heck out of it. The motor died and he put it in the corner and bought a cheap TS. So, it's got rust on the top and on the fence rails. I guess some frown on the stamped steel wings, but hey its way better than my cheapy saw i've been using. So for $47 bucks I got the saw, and the had a 1/3 hp motor that he threw in to. Ok, now here's the best part. I get it home, plug it up just to see what's up with the motor....it starts right up!!!But the blade did not turn, but it tried to. So I was thinking it must have some sort of clutch. I did a quick search on the saw and found it has a belt that drives the gear box. I pulled the end bell off and found all the teeth gone from the timing belt. So for $25 bucks (or less) ill get a new belt and smile. The motor seems to run great. All of the adjustment components underneath are all case iron and in good shape(lead screws need some light work with a wire brush and a light coat of oil). I really don't see any wear that would indicate that it will not true up. See the pics and tell me what you guys think.

 

Hi Jake

You can't beat that good deal !, with a little bit of work you will have a good table saw.

===

 

Use some penetrating oil to help with the rust removal. Once the rust is removed, buff in paste wax to protect it.

 

$47.00 is a good deal for a running saw.

 

Hi Jake:

Get the manuals and parts blowup from the Delta web site. That will include all tuneup instructions and assembly instructions. Then, disassemble and clean everything, including the gearbox. You'll have to pay particular attention to the bearings. If you clean and re-grease them, you may be able to reuse them. That's not a bad little saw. How good a deal will depend on how well you can clean it up with minimal cost.

Good Luck and enjoy.

 

Jake, it looks like a little elbow grease and a new drive belt, and you'll be making saw dust.

 

I've got the top all cleaned up. I've got the tilt adjusting lead screw out now, light rust removal. New motor belt on order. I'll post some pics soon.

 

Nice purchase. Probably better as is than my brand new $300 on sale for $220 or so Craftsman table saw. And will be for sure once you get it cleaned up and running.

 

You may take a look at it if you are near. The table ext may be bent, It looked that way on the pic you listed. I would say that you can get a nice motor for 1/2 of what was quoted on the page. I always run into motors, I have several 1/2 horse and a 1 horse that I got for nothing. You should be able to buy a two horse, if thats what you need. Check out
WWW.surpluscenter.com They have different kinds. on line. Also check out the tool auctions. They often have different 220 and 110 volts that are for tools

 

That may just be the angle that picture was taken. I laid a straight edge across the top when I got it home and all looked good. Not sure what you are seeing. The motor that are on these model saws is a universal motor with an odd frame type. It would be hard to replace with something else I'd say. I read that these motors are very loud, looks I may have to get a pair of ear muffs.

 

To be honest, any machine that creates dust or sprays a vapor, you SHOULD wear a dust mask or respirator along with eye protection and hearing protection, (granted hearing is required while spraying but, your eyes and lungs still need protection). Read your manual, it will tell you.