Hello - Brand new to routing. I bought the above router kit and built a simple table for it. This particular router has a trigger in the handle that you squeeze for power instead of a simple on/off toggle. Does anyone have experience using this in a table? If so, how did you set it up? I called Bosch and they suggested putting a zip tie on the trigger. I can see this working along with an external power switch but was hoping for a better solution. Thanks in advance.
Using a Bosch MRC23EVSK in a table
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Hello Norm and welcome to the forums...
About your new to rotering... We have some light reading for you...
As in, we've put some helpful information together at this here link to help you get up and running in the world of routers... We hope it to be useful to you... Enjoy...
Do take some time and read the safety PDF's... PLEASE!!!
Blood and trips to the ER, we find, are very annoying... Not to mention – expensive...
There is some information on dust collection w/ your health in mind at this here link if it you need it...
About your new to rotering... We have some light reading for you...
As in, we've put some helpful information together at this here link to help you get up and running in the world of routers... We hope it to be useful to you... Enjoy...
Do take some time and read the safety PDF's... PLEASE!!!
Blood and trips to the ER, we find, are very annoying... Not to mention – expensive...
DUST COLLECTION
There is some information on dust collection w/ your health in mind at this here link if it you need it...
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302 Posts
I have the 23 in a Bosch 1811 table. There should be a little push button in one of the handles that lock the unit on. I do not understand Bosch telling you to use a zip tie.
The Bosch table has a external switch, but what I have done on some of my other tools is make my own external switch.
Cut the receptacle end off a short extension cord and wire it in to 4x4 conduit box. I put a switch and plug-in in the box so I can control both the tool and a vacuum pulling dirt from the tool. Be sure to to have all the components of any home made switch match the tool's current rating. Not counting the extension cord cost, the rest of the parts should be ~$10.
As to issues with the 23, I used mine in a table for at least 5 years and it has done okay. I have had to pull it out 2 or 3 times over the 5 years and take the handle apart to blow the dirt out of the switch. I have not not tried to work with Bosch on replacing the switch.
I have access to compressed air so I blow out the exposed power bus and along the part of the handle you depress to power the unit after most jobs.
If you have the router shut down while in the table, one symptom that the handle switch is the problem will be the LEDs on the router will be lit but the router will not turn.
At the time I bought my 23, router lifts were not that common and were very expensive. With the power located in the handle, you can never use a 23 in a lift. If you chose to mount the 23 in a Bosch table it will work well with the lift built into the 23's base plate. However the Bosch table has an odd size mounting plate hole so you can't put a standard lift in the table to use a different router.
Sorry not the most positive reply. Bottom line I guess is, the 23 combined with a Bosch table is a cheaper way to get the benefits of a fairly powerful router and table with above table lift adjustment but it also a dead end type of setup.
Use the 23 now if you want to get a feel for what you can do a router and table( Hands free routing is ok but you really need put a router in a table to make it shine.) Then I would get rid of it.
The Bosch table has a external switch, but what I have done on some of my other tools is make my own external switch.
Cut the receptacle end off a short extension cord and wire it in to 4x4 conduit box. I put a switch and plug-in in the box so I can control both the tool and a vacuum pulling dirt from the tool. Be sure to to have all the components of any home made switch match the tool's current rating. Not counting the extension cord cost, the rest of the parts should be ~$10.
As to issues with the 23, I used mine in a table for at least 5 years and it has done okay. I have had to pull it out 2 or 3 times over the 5 years and take the handle apart to blow the dirt out of the switch. I have not not tried to work with Bosch on replacing the switch.
I have access to compressed air so I blow out the exposed power bus and along the part of the handle you depress to power the unit after most jobs.
If you have the router shut down while in the table, one symptom that the handle switch is the problem will be the LEDs on the router will be lit but the router will not turn.
At the time I bought my 23, router lifts were not that common and were very expensive. With the power located in the handle, you can never use a 23 in a lift. If you chose to mount the 23 in a Bosch table it will work well with the lift built into the 23's base plate. However the Bosch table has an odd size mounting plate hole so you can't put a standard lift in the table to use a different router.
Sorry not the most positive reply. Bottom line I guess is, the 23 combined with a Bosch table is a cheaper way to get the benefits of a fairly powerful router and table with above table lift adjustment but it also a dead end type of setup.
Use the 23 now if you want to get a feel for what you can do a router and table( Hands free routing is ok but you really need put a router in a table to make it shine.) Then I would get rid of it.
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302 Posts
One thing I do need correct in my post was that member Bstrom modified a Jessem lift to fit in a Bosch table and offered to walk me thru making a different brand lift in the 1811 table. It would involve cutting the Jessem plate down in size.
I still would suggest the 23 in a table is not a long term set up.
I still would suggest the 23 in a table is not a long term set up.
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3,495 Posts
Welcome to the forum
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When you get ready to get a table mounted router, give serious attention to the Triton TRA001, which is a 3.25 hp machine with a built in lift. The cost is about $270 or so. It is really a plunge router, but you remove the return spring and it allows you to use a supplied crank handle to adjust the bit height from above the table. It also has great safety features. When you raise the bit to change it, it locks the router OFF so you won't have it start up when you don't expect it. You lower the bit and turn the switch back on for use.
Price on Amazon is $270. The 1617 runs from $200-$220. A lift will cost anywhere from $100 for the Router Raizer to $340 for the Jessem top of the line model.
Here's a pix, and you can see it in use on YouTube by looking up videos by Marc Sommerfeld. Be aware that for video, most will remove safety devices. But Marc's methods are really simple and direct and with safety covers and feather boards in place, they work well.
I've come to see that a tall vertical fence is one of the more useful things you can add to a table, whatever the router model. Clamp on or fixed, a tall fence lets you use simple techniques to cut tall pieces such as the ends of stiles for a panel door.
Pix of the Router Raizer 100 (W/DeWalt router) and Master Lift II attached. There are other brands and models close to $450. Whatever lift you choose, make certain you get the model made for your router, and the same applies to choosing the mounting plate.
Price on Amazon is $270. The 1617 runs from $200-$220. A lift will cost anywhere from $100 for the Router Raizer to $340 for the Jessem top of the line model.
Here's a pix, and you can see it in use on YouTube by looking up videos by Marc Sommerfeld. Be aware that for video, most will remove safety devices. But Marc's methods are really simple and direct and with safety covers and feather boards in place, they work well.
I've come to see that a tall vertical fence is one of the more useful things you can add to a table, whatever the router model. Clamp on or fixed, a tall fence lets you use simple techniques to cut tall pieces such as the ends of stiles for a panel door.
Pix of the Router Raizer 100 (W/DeWalt router) and Master Lift II attached. There are other brands and models close to $450. Whatever lift you choose, make certain you get the model made for your router, and the same applies to choosing the mounting plate.
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