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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am making two golf ball display racks and I made some molding to put on the shelves to hide the dadoes and make it look pretty. :wink: The molding is 1/8" thick and 1/2" wide. I am putting them on with thick CA glue. They are light and there will be no strain on them. I could shoot some 23 gauge pin nails to hold them then fill the nail holes and stain the wood filler. I have done a test and it would look okay but I am concerned about one of the nails blowing out the side. There is always that chance when your shooting nails. Here is some pictures so you can see what I am talking about.





 

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precolor the 3/8'' pins w/ matching felt tip pen/magic marker, dye, marking fluid or paint pen...
fingernail polish works too...
wipe on the color, don't paint it on...
using stain for coloring.. not so good...

CA breaks down over time losing it's holding power..
 
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I would go for the nails. Just recently finished a similar project and used my pin nailer on it. Do like Stick said and you will be ok.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Stick and Richard. Out of the 54 nails I shot in there I had one to blow out. That sucks!!! :crying: I put my Dremel to work and ground it down. You can hardly see it but I know it's there. Don't tell anyone. :surprise:
 

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I just read an article in FWW and a couple of CAs in the medium to thick range held just as well as conventional glues but Stick may be right about the degradation over time. The other disadvantage was that the joints needed to fit very well as the CA has no gap filling ability.
 
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Re: pin blow out.
18 ga. pins are wider in one aspect than the other. I've read that aligning the shot so that the wider aspect will follow the grain will greatly reduce the chance of blow out. Shooting against the grain, so to speak, will cause the pin to deflect, maybe bend, especially in harder woods....and there's the blowout.
 

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Don, If you look at a stick of pins, you will see they have kind of a chisel shape opposite the head of each nail. Generally if you align the nail so the chisel edges are up and down the grain of the wood (not between the grain), they will shoot straight in. Using a short pin helps too. In your case I would just use wood glue spread thinly...not slathered and tape until dry.
 

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In your case I would just use wood glue spread thinly...not slathered and tape until dry.
Well, tape or clamp. But I would go for wood glue also. I seldom use CA glue, and don't recall ever using any for woodworking projects. Well, except for filling gaps or holes with sawdust and CA glue - homemade wood filler.
 

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Use a combination of CA glue and wood glue. Don't mix them together, rather alternate sections of wood glue then a spot of CA glue. This way the CA glue gives the instant hold while the wood glue dries to provide long term hold. Like tacking and welding.
 

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Another way to quickly attach something is with a hot melt glue gun. A couple or 3 dabs of hot melt with regular glue between works well. Hot melt is also great for tacking jig parts together and dries (cools) just as fast as CA. It's easy to get back apart too. Highly underrated as a woodworking tool.
 

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I use it for it's quick attach capability, but when gluing something together that I want permanently glued, I go with Titebond type 2 or 3 wood glue. CA glue is brittle and impact shatters too easily. I sometimes glue things together with both, using the Titebond for most of the joint and a few dots of CA glue instead of clamps to hold it together "until the glue dries". I usually resort to this when clamps are hard to use on the unusual shapes.

Charley
 
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