Using round-over bits

13404 Views 14 Replies 8 Participants Last post by Dorisz11, Aug 31, 2010

Steve740

Discussion Starter · Aug 26, 2010

Hi folks--

Have a question for the site. I'm building a deck, and wish to use a round-over bit to trim the outer edge of the fascia board for the edge of the deck. I've purchased a set of Skil roundover bits (1/4, 3/8, & 1/2 inch, with axial bearings). I'm going to wind up with approx. 100 ft of fascia, and would like the final edge to be the 1/2" round.

I was taught that routing is done a bit at a time--I do a lot of dovetail work and Japanese notch construction--but I've never used a roundover bit.

My tendency is--as I'll be using a hand router--to use the 1/4" bit, then the 3/8" bit, and finish with the 1/2" bit.

Thus, the question: Is this the way to approach the problem? Would multiple passes introduce inconsistency in the work, or would it be better to just use a single bit (the 1/2") slowly and carefully? (This is treated lumber.) Either way, I'm going to look like a cinnamon donut when I'm finished.

Any suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks!

Steve

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

MikeMa

· #2 · Aug 26, 2010

Test it on some scrap lumber. Rather than changing bits, I would start out with the bit low in the router and adjust the height after each pass until the desired results are produced.

bobj3

· #3 · Aug 26, 2010 (Edited)

Hi Steve

I would suggest one bit and make a pass or two,the treated lumber likes to split out easy so I would suggest using the pocket type way, that's to say go into the stock every 6" or so to stop the splits, than go over the pocket to clean it up..on the 1st pass , the 2nd pass will give you a nice clean job..I will say don't go to slow or you will get burn marks...let the bit do it's job like it was made to do...

I should note ,,,keep you dust mask on all the time, that stuff is nasty stuff, it's treated to keep the bugs away..and you too if you take it in..

=======

Steve740 said:
Hi folks--

Have a question for the site. I'm building a deck, and wish to use a round-over bit to trim the outer edge of the fascia board for the edge of the deck. I've purchased a set of Skil roundover bits (1/4, 3/8, & 1/2 inch, with axial bearings). I'm going to wind up with approx. 100 ft of fascia, and would like the final edge to be the 1/2" round.

I was taught that routing is done a bit at a time--I do a lot of dovetail work and Japanese notch construction--but I've never used a roundover bit.

My tendency is--as I'll be using a hand router--to use the 1/4" bit, then the 3/8" bit, and finish with the 1/2" bit.

Thus, the question: Is this the way to approach the problem? Would multiple passes introduce inconsistency in the work, or would it be better to just use a single bit (the 1/2") slowly and carefully? (This is treated lumber.) Either way, I'm going to look like a cinnamon donut when I'm finished.

Any suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks!

Steve

Steve740

Discussion Starter · #4 · Aug 26, 2010

Re: round-over bits

bobj3 said:
Hi Steve

I would suggest one bit and make a pass or two,the treated lumber likes to split out easy so I would suggest using the pocket type way, that's to say go into the stock every 6" or so to stop the splits, than go over the pocket to clean it up..on the 1st pass , the 2nd pass will give you a nice clean job..I will say don't go to slow or you will get burn marks...let the bit do it's job like it was made to do...

=======

Bob--

Bingo--great idea about the pockets. I was concerned about the splitting. Starting high and dropping the same bit--the normal approach to routing--didn't occur to me with three brand new bits.

Thank you, sir!

Steve

jschaben

· #5 · Aug 26, 2010

HI Steve - Welcome to the forum

Looks like the guys have you fixed up. Just one tip, especially with treated lumber, have some bit cleaner on hand for when you are finished. Your bits will love you for it

Steve740

Discussion Starter · #6 · Aug 26, 2010

John--Bit Cleaner?

jschaben said:
HI Steve - Welcome to the forum
Looks like the guys have you fixed up. Just one tip, especially with treated lumber, have some bit cleaner on hand for when you are finished. Your bits will love you for it

John-- what type of bit cleaner? I've never used a two part--three, if you include the axial bearing and the allen (hex) nut--router bit before. Are we thinking a nice WD-40 bath (and not a shower?). I have no idea about the care of multiple part bits!

Thanks--Steve

jschaben

· #7 · Aug 26, 2010

Steve740 said:
John-- what type of bit cleaner? I've never used a two part--three, if you include the axial bearing and the allen (hex) nut--router bit before. Are we thinking a nice WD-40 bath (and not a shower?). I have no idea about the care of multiple part bits!

Thanks--Steve

HI Steve - If you get it while it's fresh, most heavy duty household cleaners will work, 409, Fantastic, etc. Several places have their own concoctions for cleaning and soaking badly caked bits and blades. I have stuff from CMT and Rockler. I haven't been giving the bearings any special treatment. Since most of the cleaners are water based I will hit them with a spritz of WD-40 before I put them back to bed though. Good bit care isn't difficult. When I take one out of the router I just squirt it with a bit of cleaner, wipe it off with a towel and check it for damage and such, spritz it with WD-40 and put it back. Only takes a few seconds and they are always ready to go. Usually more ready than I am

bobj3

· #8 · Aug 26, 2010

Hi Steve

I can't think of a quicker way to wipe out a nice router bit than to clean it the wrong way , the bearings are the sealed type but most cleaners (like WD40) will get in the bearing and break down the lube inside of it. you just want to clean the cutters and wipe the dust off the bearing, pick up some bit cleaner it's cheap and worth the money to do it right..a little spray and the pitch will wipe right off..and make it like new again..

======

Steve740 said:
John-- what type of bit cleaner? I've never used a two part--three, if you include the axial bearing and the allen (hex) nut--router bit before. Are we thinking a nice WD-40 bath (and not a shower?). I have no idea about the care of multiple part bits!

Thanks--Steve

jschaben

· #9 · Aug 27, 2010

bobj3 said:
Hi Steve

I can't think of a quicker way to wipe out a nice router bit than to clean it the wrong way , the bearings are the sealed type but most cleaners (like WD40) will get in the bearing and break down the lube inside of it. you just want to clean the cutters and wipe the dust off the bearing, pick up some bit cleaner it's cheap and worth the money to do it right..a little spray and the pitch will wipe right off..and make it like new again..

======

Hi Bob, I stand corrected. I read in Bill Hyltons book WoodWorking with the Router to use WD-40 on the bits. I just went back and checked and he did, but I took it totally out of context. He was using it to prevent contact cement buildup on the bearings during a job, not as a routine. Looks like I'm gonna need to change my program some. :blink:

jlord

· #10 · Aug 27, 2010 (Edited)

While the bearings on the router bits are the sealed type, it just means they have a dust shield that just keeps out most of the dirt. Dirt still finds a way to get past this & they can be lubricated. They sell a bearing lube just for this purpose. Here's a few links to some products I found on the Google for lubricating these types of bearings found on router bits. I have used some of these to get a bearing that feels a little sluggish to spin freely again.

Lubes
Bearing Lubricant - Rockler Woodworking Tools

MLCS Woodworking Accesories

Router Accessories

BlondeWood

· #11 · Aug 29, 2010

I know it's probably just me, but I don't like putting anything on my bits. I clean them after use with a small wire brush. Preferably the steel rather than the brass. Anything the brush doesn't remove I scrape off with a razor or knife blade. Now I wonder it that's a no no?

bobj3

· #12 · Aug 29, 2010

Hi James

Next time you have one that's a bit sluggish, take a hard look at the seal on the bearing that's the part that is dragging the bearing down, the lube will free the seal a little or to say lube the seal but not the bearing inside ...if you have a old bearing cut it into two parts and you will see what I mean

the pitch on the seal is the error with most bearings, if you spin the bearing and you fell the bearing has flat spots on the bearings it's time to replace it

========

jlord said:
While the bearings on the router bits are the sealed type, it just means they have a dust shield that just keeps out most of the dirt. Dirt still finds a way to get past this & they can be lubricated. They sell a bearing lube just for this purpose. Here's a few links to some products I found on the Google for lubricating these types of bearings found on router bits. I have used some of these to get a bearing that feels a little sluggish to spin freely again.

Lubes
Bearing Lubricant - Rockler Woodworking Tools

MLCS Woodworking Accesories

Router Accessories

Steve740

Discussion Starter · #13 · Aug 30, 2010

Hi guys--

Using all of your suggestions, the roundover bit on the treated lumber worked very well.

I did make multiple passes with the same bit, and saw no splitting of the treated lumber.

As the bit-set I purchased came with an allen wrench, I removed the axial bearing, cleaned it out, and just cleaned everything with a WD-40 soaked rag. All dried, re-assembled, and ready to rout another day!

Thanks all so much!

Steve

zerodyn

· #14 · Aug 31, 2010

Is this the way to approach the problem? Would multiple passes introduce inconsistency in the work, or would it be better to just use a single bit (the 1/2") slowly and carefully? (This is treated lumber.) Either way, I'm going to look like a cinnamon donut when I'm finished.

Dorisz11

· #15 · Aug 31, 2010

NiceG316 said:
Test it on some scrap lumber. Rather than changing bits, I would start out with the bit low in the router and adjust the height after each pass until the desired results are produced.

yep

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