Hi rzaccone
I have and they do work great, I use a T & G set to make the side guide sets.
You can make the slot in the drawer side and make the male part out of poplar, works best for me
or make both parts out of poplar and glue and screw them in place.
I don't recommend using oak , walnut is nice but a bit high in price for guides unless you some left overs.
What works best for me is to make two passes when making the female slot, over size by 1/16" this will let it side in and out easy without a wax job ,plus it will not tip when it's all the way out so to speak.
Plus using the fence on the male part to make it a bit short ( the norm is 7/16" long ) I set it a 3/8" long, I use 5/16" ID bearing from MLCS to do this also.
I have looked for a long time for the bearings and I found them on the MLCS web site and will turn the T & G bit set into a real tool for the router table.
Bearing Part numbers 12111,12112,12113,12114 plus they will work with your slot cutting bits as well.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/katbt7.htm
-----------
Two Piece Tongue & Groove Set
For 1/2" to 1-1/4" stock
It's a bit higher in price than most of the T & G sets but note the max of
1 1/4", that's the key in this set.
SET #7737 ............1/2" SHANK $79.95
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...ges/bt_tongue_groove.html#tongu_two_pc_anchor
Grizzly T & G set below, the norm 3/4" max
http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1665
--------------------------
I should NOTE*****Don't use sliding DOVETAILS they will jam,unless you use a wide dovetail slot (1 1/4" min.) with a 7deg. or 8deg. dovetail bit.
Plus over time the sharp bottom of the edge of the dovetail slot will fill up with junk and you will say I will never do that again,great for tables, but for drawers I would say no.
The ones on tables are open on both ends so the junk can fall out.
Bj
I have and they do work great, I use a T & G set to make the side guide sets.
You can make the slot in the drawer side and make the male part out of poplar, works best for me
or make both parts out of poplar and glue and screw them in place.I don't recommend using oak , walnut is nice but a bit high in price for guides unless you some left overs.
What works best for me is to make two passes when making the female slot, over size by 1/16" this will let it side in and out easy without a wax job ,plus it will not tip when it's all the way out so to speak.
Plus using the fence on the male part to make it a bit short ( the norm is 7/16" long ) I set it a 3/8" long, I use 5/16" ID bearing from MLCS to do this also.
I have looked for a long time for the bearings and I found them on the MLCS web site and will turn the T & G bit set into a real tool for the router table.
Bearing Part numbers 12111,12112,12113,12114 plus they will work with your slot cutting bits as well.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/katbt7.htm
-----------
Two Piece Tongue & Groove Set
For 1/2" to 1-1/4" stock
It's a bit higher in price than most of the T & G sets but note the max of
1 1/4", that's the key in this set.
SET #7737 ............1/2" SHANK $79.95
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...ges/bt_tongue_groove.html#tongu_two_pc_anchor
Grizzly T & G set below, the norm 3/4" max
http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1665
--------------------------
I should NOTE*****Don't use sliding DOVETAILS they will jam,unless you use a wide dovetail slot (1 1/4" min.) with a 7deg. or 8deg. dovetail bit.
Plus over time the sharp bottom of the edge of the dovetail slot will fill up with junk
and you will say I will never do that again,great for tables, but for drawers I would say no. The ones on tables are open on both ends so the junk can fall out.
Bj
