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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A lot of people have shared really beautiful cutting boards that they have built. Many look more like pieces of fine furniture that should be displayed as a wall hanging or a coffee table item. I cringe at the thought of someone taking a knife to them! I want to share a cutting board design that is sufficiently plain that you won't mind attacking it with a knife. I got the design from a friend around 1968 so it has been around a long time. I presently have three of them in the kitchen and it is common to use two of them when preparing a nice meal. The sketch below gives typical dimensions that can be easily modified to suit your needs; the stock thickness can be in the range 1/2"-3/4". The three piece glue up evolved from the desire to make use of scraps and also minimize machine operations. The photo of a cutting board with curved joinery was the most elaborate one I have built; the two woods are cherry and maple. Curved joinery with a router is a topic for another thread. I have lost track of how many I have made and given to friends and family.
 

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Or polyurethane. I’ve been laying a bead on and then spreading it with a plastic paddle from Lee Valley and using the paddle to scape off the excess and transfer it to the next piece. Very little squeeze out that way and the p u glue goes on thinner so I think cost is similar.
 
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Mike
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Nice looking convenient cutting board. Not so elaborate that it will never see the edge of a knife and good usable size.
 

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Thanks for posting that design. It is quite utilitarian, I like the long grain cutting boards, and they are easier to make, I use Titebond II and never had a failure. The end grain boards are more for chopping,and the long grain ones are good for slicing. I have made several to span a single or double sink and have a hole in them for catching the scraps in a container in the sink.

When you make the dark/light boards do you make a dark one and a light one and lay one on top of the other to do the curved cut? Then swap pieces to get 2 dark / light colored ones, only opposites?
HErb
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Herb: The technique I learned does not make light and dark boards, band saw them and then switch parts. That approach might have the potential for minimizing waste. Instead, I made a template from 1/4" melamine or MDF that has the curved edge. This same template and a flush trim bit is used for cutting the curved (mating) edge of the light and dark woods. Hence you can get a (near) perfectly matched joint between the light and dark woods. At some point I will put together a document that goes into the details.
 

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just curious----curiosity killed the cat---

Weldbond bottle says--"permanent and flexible"

"flexible" to what extent and under what conditions??

also seems to have left metal out of the things that it will attach to.

---correction-- the back of the bottle implies that it is not for metal & rubber
as in not brittle..
metal... cast and AL is because of the nature of the metal...
check the PDF...

.
 

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