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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Found an almost new Veritas Router table (heavy steel), fence, right-angle sled, hold-downs, and fence stops.

Someone bought it an estate sale, but no longer wanted it.

I waltzed home with it all for $250.00.

Great way to start the weekend.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Still a few more goodies in the trunk.

Whoever originally owned it did a superb job of welding bolts then added heavy rubber mounts underneath. The very slight surface rust will be gone tomorrow.

It sits perfectly on an old B&D workmate so for now, no building necessary to get started.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
The Veritas manual is no longer available. If anyone has a digital doc/pdf I'd appreciate a copy. Thanks.

Steve

*Found a digital copy so I'm in business. I'm going to order the Veritas DVD that completely covers the router plate and accessories.

The top is rust free. Spent 15 minutes on the bottom cleaning up the surface rust. 95% of it is gone. The rest can wait until morning for a final cleaning then waxing all over.
 

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Over the years I have bought quite a few Veritas tools. They have all been top notch. I have never regretted buying anything Veritas or Lee Valley.

Cool Find. You have to seek to find.
 

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My wife bought me one of those for Christmas, maybe 20 years ago now. I use it as a bench top model. It could easily outlast my children, never mind me.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It's missing a pivot pin. Any ideas on what might work?
 
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I have the Veritas router jack for one of mine and it does not work at all on the Freud router because it binds when at the ''most plunged'' position. One day I will try an extra long bit in it.
Rob
 

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Great find indeed. I never knew Veritas made a router table and this looks like it would survive forever as long as its away from moisture. You pay extra for Veritas but the quality is top shelf. What I call heritage quality and worthy of passing on. I need to start looking for a few quality hand planes and theirs always go to the top of the list, as do the prices. I need to start going to estate sales and find some gems in the rough.....
 

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It's missing a pivot pin. Any ideas on what might work?
Steve, I'm guessing it threads into the plate so figure out the thread size and get a stainless steel 2" round head bolt and a SS sleeve that will fit through the bolt to work as a "bearing". I would think that would work just fine. Doesn't have to be SS but hey, let's make this baby shine!
 

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I just uploaded 3 of the manuals that I had. put them in the manuals forum under Lee Valley manuals. I don't know if they went in properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I was amazed at the weight and quality of the table. This deal popped up on Craigslist about 10 days ago. I emailed the owner but never heard back figuring it was sold.

Yesterday afternoon at 4:30 pm I received additional photos and information from the seller. By 5 pm I was in the car heading twenty miles down the road.


By 6 pm I was heading home. Just that fast. I call it the luck of the Irish (with Spanish, English, Cherokee, and Scottish mixed in unequal parts).

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I just uploaded 3 of the manuals that I had. put them in the manuals forum under Lee Valley manuals. I don't know if they went in properly.
Many thanks. That is a big help.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Steve, I'm guessing it threads into the plate so figure out the thread size and get a stainless steel 2" round head bolt and a SS sleeve that will fit through the bolt to work as a "bearing". I would think that would work just fine. Doesn't have to be SS but hey, let's make this baby shine!
Good idea. Thanks.

I did talk to Lee Valley this morning and They are checking for me on the pivot pin. Of course, I wound up buying table inserts, a magnetic dust chute that fits a shop vac, and several other goodies.

Lee Valley appears to have very good customer service.

Yesterday was a money out-flow kind of day. My 25-year-old Skil jigsaw gave up the ghost so I went to Home Depot and bought an Octane battery and charger and got the cordless Octane jigsaw for free.

What with buying a Bosch 1617 kit, a 4100-10 table saw, router table, jigsaw, and all the other "necessities" in the last two weeks, it adds up.

Fortunately, I just sold a beautiful and excellent condition 1942 Savage (Stephens) Enfield with 600 rds of mil-surp ammo that almost covered the new tools.

WW1 and WW2 weapons are selling for a premium now. Time to cash in before the next recession.

Steve
 

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Hopefully you understand what the starter pin does. Just in case you do not and for others here is what is does.

The starter pin should be on the right side of a bit as you stand in front of the router facing the bit. Due to the rotation is why it is on the right. If you have a shaper that runs in reverse then the pin would be on the left of the bit.

Free hand routing should only be done with a bearing bit like a pattern bit or flush trim bit.

When using a router bit freehand without a fence to guide the work a starter pin helps if a piece of wood gets out of control and starts to run away. You should start with the edge of your work against the starter pin and ease your wood into the router bit. Then if the work piece starts to get out of control the pin keeps it from spinning and getting out of control. You simply pivot the piece away from the spinning bit against the starter pin and helps keep your fingers and hands away from the blade.

Of course you should not free hand route with your hands holding the work piece. Use pads to hold the work and feed it. I like the Gripper because it keeps my fingers well above spinning blades and bits.

The starter pin is a safety feature and helps anchor your work piece.
 
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