[LeftFinger]

 

[difalkner]

Nice setup. You'll get more interest and feedback if you provide some description of what you've got here, how you went about it, things you might change, etc.

Add your first name to your profile so we'll know what to call you and to clear the N/a in the side panel.

David

 

[Multiwood]

Welcome to the forum N/a

 

[DaninVan]

Hey, Leftfinger; welcome! That's a great looking sled project. As David said, more detail and specs would be much appreciated. For example, how do you adjust for slab thickness, or are all your blanks the same rough thickness to start?

(Not the bit ht. adjustment, that's pretty obvious.)

 

[LeftFinger]

4 pieces aluminum angle iron 8 bolts some paste wax to make it glide and there you have it.
The router base was opened up to be able to raise and lower the 2" bit. This gives about 1 1/2" depth adjustment
This was a one off as I fastened spacers to the sides of the table and then the rails for the jig to them .
that gives infinite height adjustment Danni Van . This was due to the oversize nature of the table and not enough
room in the shop to store a jig that big


Rich

 

[DaninVan]

Thans for that added info, Rich. (Dan, in Vancouver...ie Dan)

 

[LeftFinger]

Butcher table in finishing stage planer worked excellent

 

[RainMan 2.0]

Great idea Rich . Welcome to the forum fellow Canadian, if I haven’t already

 

[DaninVan]

A beauty, Rich! Is that a temporary base, or was it previously used; it looks like it has some history(?).

 

[RainMan 2.0]

I also like the idea of having those marks on the side pieces so you know how much to move it each time .
I’m liking the aluminum idea as it’s thin horizontally , which should be better as your not extending the router out as far.

Nice outcome on the table to Rich

 

[LeftFinger]

A beauty, Rich! Is that a temporary base, or was it previously used; it looks like it has some history(?).

No it was made for a work bench .Take 8 nuts off and the base is in pieces for storage .The top just lifts off. The finish on the oak is steel wool/vinegar and peroxide (home made aging stain) almost turns the oak black. I can switch between a butcher table and a workbench in seconds .Just have to build the workbench:wink:

I also like the idea of having those marks on the side pieces so you know how much to move it each time .
I’m liking the aluminum idea as it’s thin horizontally , which should be better as your not extending the router out as far.

Nice outcome on the table to Rich

Thankyou
strong, light and simple is what I was looking for. and yes the marks really work . Bits 2 1/4 marks are 1 1/2 good overlap for a smooth finish

 

[LoftyDave]

Simply excellent!

I would like to do something similar using my Festool OF1400 router which is quite heavy but on a smaller scale to plane cutting boards.

I have just made my first cutting board but caused a hollow using a sander right in the centre of the board trying to get rid of the glue squeeze-out.

Please can you advise the size of the aluminium angle iron particularly the thickness. I have some already but am concerned it might be too thin.

Many thanks.

Lofty Dave from the UK.

 

[mbrun]

Nice Job Rich.

Curious, did you sense much deflection in your jig when you were sliding the router or did it seem nice and solid.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[DaninVan]

Michael; in theory at least, there shouldn't be any deflection. That's the beauty of angle iron; the adjacent legs add tremendous stiffness and strength to the other leg.
It comes in two styles, Structural and Architectural. The Architectural has clean sharp corners, no molded-in fillets
https://www.metalsdepot.com/aluminum-products/aluminum-angle-6063

 

[mbrun]

You jig looks like it could handle about a 36” slab, is that about right?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[DesertRatTom]

Very smart move raising the router so you just adjust bit height to set thickness. You could also use low friction tape in the channel to smooth out sliding. Really good idea to mark the spacing as well. Welcome to the Forum, by the way, darn good first post!

 

[LeftFinger]

Very smart move raising the router so you just adjust bit height to set thickness. You could also use low friction tape in the channel to smooth out sliding. Really good idea to mark the spacing as well. Welcome to the Forum, by the way, darn good first post!

I use paste wax on the rails
no friction

 

[LeftFinger]

You jig looks like it could handle about a 36” slab, is that about right?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

good eye

 

[LeftFinger]

Simply excellent!

I would like to do something similar using my Festool OF1400 router which is quite heavy but on a smaller scale to plane cutting boards.

I have just made my first cutting board but caused a hollow using a sander right in the centre of the board trying to get rid of the glue squeeze-out.

Please can you advise the size of the aluminium angle iron particularly the thickness. I have some already but am concerned it might be too thin.

This was only 1/8 or .125 of an inch thick but 3"x 3"
3.17mm x 76x76mm

Many thanks.

Lofty Dave from the UK.

Nice Job Rich.

Curious, did you sense much deflection in your jig when you were sliding the router or did it seem nice and solid.


No decernable deflection

 

[JFPNCM]

Well executed concept. Appreciate the details and looking forward to future posts.