LeftFinger
Nice setup. You'll get more interest and feedback if you provide some description of what you've got here, how you went about it, things you might change, etc.
Add your first name to your profile so we'll know what to call you and to clear the N/a in the side panel.
David
Add your first name to your profile so we'll know what to call you and to clear the N/a in the side panel.
David
Hey, Leftfinger; welcome! That's a great looking sled project. As David said, more detail and specs would be much appreciated. For example, how do you adjust for slab thickness, or are all your blanks the same rough thickness to start?
(Not the bit ht. adjustment, that's pretty obvious.)
(Not the bit ht. adjustment, that's pretty obvious.)
4 pieces aluminum angle iron 8 bolts some paste wax to make it glide and there you have it.
The router base was opened up to be able to raise and lower the 2" bit. This gives about 1 1/2" depth adjustment
This was a one off as I fastened spacers to the sides of the table and then the rails for the jig to them .
that gives infinite height adjustment Danni Van . This was due to the oversize nature of the table and not enough
room in the shop to store a jig that big
Rich
The router base was opened up to be able to raise and lower the 2" bit. This gives about 1 1/2" depth adjustment
This was a one off as I fastened spacers to the sides of the table and then the rails for the jig to them .
that gives infinite height adjustment Danni Van . This was due to the oversize nature of the table and not enough
room in the shop to store a jig that big
Rich
A beauty, Rich! Is that a temporary base, or was it previously used; it looks like it has some history(?).
I also like the idea of having those marks on the side pieces so you know how much to move it each time .
I’m liking the aluminum idea as it’s thin horizontally , which should be better as your not extending the router out as far.
Nice outcome on the table to Rich
I’m liking the aluminum idea as it’s thin horizontally , which should be better as your not extending the router out as far.
Nice outcome on the table to Rich
Simply excellent!
I would like to do something similar using my Festool OF1400 router which is quite heavy but on a smaller scale to plane cutting boards.
I have just made my first cutting board but caused a hollow using a sander right in the centre of the board trying to get rid of the glue squeeze-out.
Please can you advise the size of the aluminium angle iron particularly the thickness. I have some already but am concerned it might be too thin.
Many thanks.
Lofty Dave from the UK.
I would like to do something similar using my Festool OF1400 router which is quite heavy but on a smaller scale to plane cutting boards.
I have just made my first cutting board but caused a hollow using a sander right in the centre of the board trying to get rid of the glue squeeze-out.
Please can you advise the size of the aluminium angle iron particularly the thickness. I have some already but am concerned it might be too thin.
Many thanks.
Lofty Dave from the UK.
Michael; in theory at least, there shouldn't be any deflection. That's the beauty of angle iron; the adjacent legs add tremendous stiffness and strength to the other leg.
It comes in two styles, Structural and Architectural. The Architectural has clean sharp corners, no molded-in fillets
https://www.metalsdepot.com/aluminum-products/aluminum-angle-6063
It comes in two styles, Structural and Architectural. The Architectural has clean sharp corners, no molded-in fillets
https://www.metalsdepot.com/aluminum-products/aluminum-angle-6063
Very smart move raising the router so you just adjust bit height to set thickness. You could also use low friction tape in the channel to smooth out sliding. Really good idea to mark the spacing as well. Welcome to the Forum, by the way, darn good first post!
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