that is gorgeous...
that is gorgeous...
Thanks for the kudos, guys - this was an exercise in precision and that’s what I got the most out of it. Between the router cutting dados and the radial arm doing the miters, it is now reassuring knowing I can attain very tight fits, etc. Shaving pieces to their final fit with the DeWalt radial arm is a big advantage over a TS. Still have to test out the best way to cut miters for taller box sides using either the radial arm or TS remains to be done.
A few more thoughts:
- The Freud glue line blade on the TS is really nice - very valuable for joining panel pieces and making rip cuts in general. (End cuts for rails and stiles are done on the radial arm.)
- Glue up is critical to avoid excess cleanup in corners, etc. I managed to avoid that issue in general.
- Am using a iGage Snap Check+ dial tool off eBay to setup router bit height and setting fence dimensions for dado/rebate cuts - very useful tool.
- Will be using Tung Oil followed with some Odie’s Butter as a finishing routine for a soft, matte appearance without any final sanding needed.
That’s what I need to do next and find the most accurate approach, Nick. I was just cutting a shorter sidewall on the radial arm with the piece standing up. I’ll try it lying down with a bevel cut On the RAS and hope for the best. In necessary, I’ve already got a sled for the TS, which may be easier.Could you not angle the blade for a bevel cut...? For the TS, try using a cross cut sled rather than the miter gauge...for the RAS, angle the blade for a bevel cut.
That’s what I need to do next and find the most accurate approach, Nick. I was just cutting a shorter sidewall on the radial arm with the piece standing up. I’ll try it lying down with a bevel cut On the RAS and hope for the best. In necessary, I’ve already got a sled for the TS, which may be easier.
Super looking work ! And great amount of character in the book matched panels. It looks like your time and effort in setting up your equipment was well done and successful. With regard to trimming miters, I know there are 'miter trimmers' (for example, look on Amazon for "miter trimmer cutter"), but they are quite expensive and I'm not sure they do a much better job than your shooting board. They might be worth it if you were doing production work or making enough miters that cut the 'cost per slice' down, but it looks like your set up makes that unnecessary. By the way, thanks for your comments on the various tools you used and what you thought of them. And thanks Jamie for the miter sled for the tablesaw picture.
tablesawMy need is for taller sidewall pieces - 6 to 10 inches at best before I employ box or dovetail joints. I have an electronic blade angle indicator and will try that out on the TS - it’ll work on the RAS too but that saw has a cut length limit. I’m curious which saw is more stable for accuracy over the full length of the corner miters. Thanks again for all the kind remarks...
Yeah, I suspect the TS will be the preferred tool for that...might need to upgrade my miter bar - or go with a sled.tablesaw